Hotpoint Glasstop Stove - Burner turns on by itself
We were cooking using the right front burner on high setting. Turned the burner off and the burner would not go off. Had to unplug the stove. When I plug the stove back in, even if I have the knob to off position, the burner comes on by itself. The only way to get the burner to turn off is to unplug it. Also the hot surface light stays on even if the burner is not lit.
Re: Hotpoint Glasstop Stove - Burner turns on by itself
I have a GE stove which I purchased in 2004, and it is doing the same. I heard beeping coming from the kitchen in the middle of the night . I went to the kitchen and the oven was on by itself. I have been unplugging it when not using it. Maybe this could be a recall.
Re: Hotpoint Glasstop Stove - Burner turns on by itself
Our GE oven manufactured in 2000 is coming on by itself too. Service man came out is ordering a thermostat for it. says no one has had same complaints please contact GE regarding this-- GE is still paying for it also. I think this should be a recall as well as a safety issue.
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the bulb i am sure is ok . but you have had a power failure to the burner . it could be the burner itself . if all the burners do not work the power to the range may be the problem .. ck the main fuse and make sure the 220 power is ok mm
I suspect this may have been happening for quite some time and you may never have noticed it. MANY ovens vent near one of the stove eyes. If you lift the cooktop for 'servicing', I bet you see the little vent. It is usually in the back right underneath the cooking surface. Check to make sure it is not blocked, clogged or has rusted out/off.
If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!
you either have a gas pressure problem from your meter outside or a bad pressure regulator on the range. if you use a magnehelic guage (get from a plumming supply house) you should be getting about 11inches of water coloum, or you can call your gas company to check it out... Let me know how it goes.
I have the same problem with the LR, it is on all time and do not go off. What I did was to disconnect the yellow wire from the SF5601 power board terminal P3. Now I can use the other three burner until I got a new board. I don't have the circuit schematic but my diagnostic is that the board integrated output relay contacts are welded together. That is why the burner element is on all the time and or intermittent. THE VERDICT: The solution is to replace the surface power board SF5601