Question about GE Profile WPRE6100G Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Waser is not spinning nor emptying

The washer will fill and wash but at the time of spinning it just hums
and will not empty nor spin

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  • dmclauglin Oct 07, 2009

    Like I said on the first comment the washer works fine during the filling and washinng cycles. The lid switch is fine. The unit will only hum at the spin cycle and will not empty, nor spin...

  • dmclauglin Oct 07, 2009

    The Washer is a GE Prfile Model # WNSR3120W1WW bought in April of 2001

    Like I said on the 1st comment it fills fine with water and washes. The lid swith is good. At the time of the cycle for it to spin it just hums and will not empty nor spin....

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2 Answers

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Hi,

Something is stuck in the water pump on the intake side , it's clipped right onto one end of the motor itself You will have to remove any water unplug the unit lay it on it's side to get at the bottom and see if you can remove the pump and lines. You will find someting in there a sock or some plastic or even something else so be carefull when you check.

As you already check Lid switch, i have also seen the same hum issue due to Brake/Clutch assembly.

Let me know, once you done.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

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  • Master
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HI. the first action is to test the lid switch. The lid switch ensures that the lid is closed before enabling the machine to spin or agitate. This feature was added after serious injuries resulted from people reaching into an operating washing machine. For this reason, the lid switch should never be bypassed. Aside from electrical problems, the switch may suffer from a mechanical problem. The lid may have a striker which depresses the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure the striker is functioning and aligned with the hole over the switch. Inspect the switch and make sure the metal strip is not bent out of position (if present). If your switch uses a mercury switch, make sure the mercury envelops the internal contacts when it is in the closed lid position. Your design may differ, so inspect it for proper operation before proceeding to the electrical testing.There are two primary types of lid switches. One type on which you can directly test the terminals on the switch and another style where you have to test it at the wiring harness. In either case the method for testing the switch is the same. If a wiring harness is used, separate the two pieces of the harness and test the side of the harness that connects to the switch. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of infinity. Depress the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced. Some lid switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it for continuity with a multimeter. If the fuse is bad, replace it with one of the same rating. If the lid switch is operational, i would move on to the next possible issue. This will be the motor coupler. Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission . A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do. Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port. There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor. Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler. ***(I would suggest to check the following while you are in the area for faults as well(((Clutch,motor,motor board,transmission))). inspect these areas thoroughly) Ok, if all the above checks out ok and, there are no signs of damage to any of the above parts stated, this will confirm that the main control board assembly has failed. replace the control assembly asap, if possible.

Posted on Oct 07, 2009

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