Question about Jenn-Air Expressions AC110 Electric Cooktop

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Coils don't heat

In last three months, both coils in one cartridge have been slow to heat. Also, sometimes heating and sometimes not at all. I replaced the entire cartidge a week ago. After less than a week of satisfactory service, the new coils are not heating. My cook top is 22 years old. Is the problemm likely in the two heat control knobs and can they be replaced?

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Re: coils don't heat

I'm looking for a fan switch replacement for my cook-top. My JennAir model is 89890. It's about 27 years young. I purchased the recommended replacement part off an web site and it didn't fit into the control unit space. Also, it doesn't light up.
Any ideas?

Posted on Apr 06, 2008

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Re: coils don't heat

The control knb are being worn need to replace it the terminals are rusty conductance may not flow./not heating the coil.

Posted on Jan 10, 2008

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We have a JennAire model CP220W-C01 cooktop. We use the old coil type heating elements. There was a flash and smoke from the right front element. A repairperson replaced the connector, only to have it blow...

Unplug the element from the receptacle and then disconnect the receptacle from the point where it plugs into the stove. Now, carefully, turn on power to this heating element. If nothing happens then you have removed the likelihood of a problem in the large portion of the stove's wiring. Next, plug the receptacle cable back into the stove without connecting the heating element. Again, carefully turn on the power to the heating element in question. If there is no spark then the cable, connector and receptacle are ok. If it does spark, replace the receptacle and cable assembly. No spark, then inspect the heating element where it connects to the receptacle. Look for melting or signs of damaged insulation that would allow for a "dead short". If you see damage to the element then replace the element. No damage, clean the connections with a toothbrush, and plug the element back in and turn on the juice. If it sparks again, replace the element. Good luck and be careful. Don't attempt any of this if you are inexperienced in working with electricity. 220 Volts can cause death or serious injury... just the flash from an arc can cause blindness and burns.

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Maytag electric cooktop popping breaker.

The problem is most likely in the element in one of the coils, if they are the tube type and look like pencil thick heating elements, they can develope a short circuit inside them. The actual heating wire is encased with ceramic filler and then put in that tube. The heating wire moves when it gets hot and can work its way to the case and cause a short. Unhook the power from the whole unit and use the meter to check the rersistance of the coils between the heating element and the case

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I have intermittent problem with two of the four rings - sometimes they work sometimes they don't

see this causes and proceed for fix it. God bless you
Surface Element Switch If the surface element won't work, and there is another element of the same size on the stove, try switching the elements. If it still won't work, the surface element switch is probably defective. The surface element switch can't be tested or repaired, it will have to be replaced.

Surface Element Board If a surface element won't work the surface element board might be defective. Each burner is switched on and off with the help of a relay on the surface element board. If one or more relays has failed the surface element won't work. If two or more burners fail at the same time, this is likely the problem. If only one surface element won't work and the element itself checks out to be good, the surface element board might be defective.

Coil Surface Element If the surface element won't work, the coil surface element might be burned out. Most coil surface elements can be pulled out of their socket and checked with an Ohm meter for continuity. If the surface element won't work, check to see if there is any visible damage to the coils. Also, check to be sure the element is pushed all the way into the socket.

Radiant Surface Element The most common cause when the surface element won't work is the radiant surface element itself. The radiant surface element - or heating element - can burn out similar to a light bulb. If the surface element won't work and it doesn't have continuity, it will need to be replaced. The radiant surface element is not repairable.

Solid Surface Element If the surface element won't work, and the stove has the solid surface element type of heat, it's likely that the solid surface element itself has burned out. The solid surface element works very similarly to other surface elements - inside there is a heating element that glows when electricity is applied to it. As it gets hotter, the heat is transferred to the solid surface element

Terminal Block If a surface element won't work, there may be a problem at the terminal block. The appliance has a power cord which is attached to a terminal block. Over time, the connections at the terminal block can fail and burn open. When this happens, normally all of the surface elements won't work. The solution is to replace any burned wires and replace the terminal block.

Loose or Burnt Wire Connection If surface element won't work, there might be a burnt wire supplying power to the surface element. Sometimes the wire supplying power to the element burns out right near the element itself. Check for this by just looking at the wires leading to the element. If they're burned out it is usually easy to spot.
Incoming Power Problem Although not as common, if the surface element won't work it is possible that the appliance is not receiving proper voltage. Electric ranges require 220 volts of alternating current. If for some reason the appliance is receiving significantly less, the surface element won't work. Check for proper voltage using a volt meter at the socket where the appliance plugs in.

Oct 02, 2012 | Neff Cooktops

1 Answer

Kitchenaid KGRT507FWHO gas range not firing or not getting hot

your ignitor is either cracked or bad
gotto sears type in your modle numbber and look for ignitor in parts search reletivley easy repair

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Hot Surface Indicator Light has not turned off since last night.

if the hs ind light does not turn off then that particular heating elemnt needs to be replaced.heat sensor is built in the elemnt.when elemnt is turned off and it cools down it makes a switch to open and inturn ind light turns off.but sometimes thst gets stuck and light remains on.but do not worry abt element,it remains off,its just that indicator light that remains on.

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some of the coiled eyes have two coils(elements). one of the coils can burn into at any point around the element rendering it useless while the other can still work. when you lift the glass top you will see the elements are shaped like springs. the elements metal is very is you have to replace the entire eye to fix it. the coil most likely had a very gap in the break and acted like a short making and breaking connection until the gap was too wide then nothing. easy fix. just replace the entire eye (power UNPLUGGED!!!) match the old wires with the new part as you take the old part off. I mark them even with a sharpie. it has 3 to 5 wires on that plug into the eye unit. estimated cost for the part online is about 40 to 65 bucks.

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1 Answer

RCC3024 cooktop one burner wont heat

Hi again,

It would seem you posted anew.

For some reason I could not locate related literature for a RCC3024LD01,although there are for LB01, LQ01 and a LT01. Most of the components inthese models could be checked with the use of a continuity tester(multitester VOM/DVM). The idea is to check for continuity of eachcomponent. If we are to assume that the heating element as a likelysuspect, it is a matter of checking if the coil is continuous, that isno break anywhere in between. The test prods of the continuity testerwould be applied to the two (2) terminals of the heating element andthe tester should deflect/display how much is the resistance. Normalreading shouold be pretty low while no deflection/reading indicates anopen coil and therefore would require replacement.

These additional documents may be of help to you:
  1. exploded parts diagram;
  2. parts list.

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Cook top

Sounds like you have cartridge fuses in your house. When only one is blown it can cause interesting results. The clock is probably feeding back through the burner. This lets enough electricity through to run the clock and othe small things but not enough for heat. Have all the cartridge in your house tested. I'll bet either one of the mains or range ones are bad.

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Electric Cooktop Heating Elements Get Hot, Turn Off, Get Hot, Turn Off

no they are made to cycle that way they are halagen and cycle with a sensor dont work like the old coil ones do enegey efficent and hotter than old coils dont use them without a pan on them to reflect heat back to the sensor to prolong their life

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