Question about GE Dryers

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DWXR463EG0WW is the model number of my GE Dryer. Have replaced the bias thermostat on top of the blower housing. Cleaned and replaced all duct work. Cleaned blower wheel of all lint. Cleaned the screen at back of the drum. Cleaned the entire inside cabinet of all lint. Still when I put clothes in the dryer it gets very hot to the touch on top and turns off. Will work just fine with nothing in it. Even tried to dry clothes with the new duct going outside off and it still tuned off. What do I do next????

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  • goodmedic200 Oct 07, 2009

    Not sure which component is the ones I am supposed to check. Is there a list with the schematic? Also can a broken element be the problem and how did it break if it is?

  • goodmedic200 Oct 07, 2009

    Very fast response to my problem. Gave me answers that no one else has thought of!! Great service!!



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Thanks for using FixYa. This happens when the dryer's heating element draws very high amount of power, which in turn shuts down the dryer. Check for a faulty thermal fuse that is not blowing in case of high voltage fed to the element. Also make sure that the there are no loose or cut wires that are touching the dryer's body or tub. Check for connections on the element terminals. Check for the thermistor, if it is not burned. This schematic will help you---
DWXR463EG0WW is the model number - f482951.gif
Click on it to Zoom In.

Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.

Thanks Rylee

Posted on Oct 07, 2009

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith Oct 07, 2009


    Please check the following in the schematic--


    Part # 505-- THERMOSTAT , SAFETY LEFT (THERM. L210)



    There are 3 thermostat's that needed to be checked for ensuring proper working of Dryer.

    Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.





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1 Answer

Electric dryer getting way too hot



To get to the blower wheel, remove the back of the dryer.

The blower wheel is under the bottom of the lint screen duct to your left, as you look at the back of the dryer.

The operating thermostats are at the blower wheel outlet.

In electric models, the hi-temperature cutout thermostat is mounted to the heat riser.


These clothes dryer machines use operating thermostats to control the temperature inside the drum, and hi-limit thermostats to prevent overheating of the dryer drum.. Many machines also have extra temperature controls, such as bias thermostats and heaters, hi-temperature cutoffs, and thermal fuses.

Bias thermostats are just like regular operating thermostats, except that they are mounted inside a bias heater. When the bias heater is energized, it generates a small amount of heat, which causes the operating thermostat to open sooner, keeping the dryer drum cooler inside. Thus a bias heater allows a single operating thermostat to act like both a hi-temp and a lo-temp operating thermostat.

A thermal fuse is found on the blower outlet, right next to the operating thermostat(s.) This fuse will blow when too high a temperature is sensed at the outlet; usually when one of the operating thermostats has failed. If it blows, the motor may not start, or you may get no heat (no voltage to the burner.)

A thermal cut-off is mounted on the clothes dryer heater box. It is a back-up for the hi-limit thermostat. Whenever you replace it, you should replace the hi-limit thermostat, too. A high-temperature condition causes it to open, an overheated grounded heat element may also cause it to open.

Dec 01, 2013 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer is over heating and cuts off

This will occur if the running thermostat is stuck closed. This thermostat will be located inside the dryer on the vent duct or blower housing. it must be replaced in order to restore normal functions.

Also, improper ventilation can cause this as well. have the entire vent assembly cleaned asap.

Sep 06, 2010 | GE DVLR223 Dryers

1 Answer


first thing get a meter,unplug the dryer,remove one of the wires or both and read out the parts so your not replacing parts that are good,did you check the thermal fuse,if the dryer needs a clean out you could have popped the thermal fuse located on the blower wheel housing part 3392519,if the lint filter is on top it's in the back,remove the back panel and you'll see it to the right of the duct that the lint filter slides into take out the lint filter and remove the two screws on the top panel, now go to the back and take the four screws out and remove the duct and clean it out,if the filter is inside,take the bottom panel off and you'll find the fuse on the top right side of the blower wheel housing part 3392519 or 3390719,you'll have to take out the lint filter,then remove the duct and clean it out,vac out the inside of the dryer and clean out the vent line,if the vent line is a long run from the wall to the outside blow the line out with a leaf blower,also send the model number, some dryers have an even heat bord and relays inside the top console that could be bad,hope this helps

Dec 17, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

2 Answers

My dryer runs and turns but doesnt heat up or dry clothes

It sounds like you may need a GE element part number WE11M23. this is a common problem and can be replaced by taking out the drum and exposing the large circular heating element. the thermostats on the heater housing can usually be re-used. secondly check you house fuses as this can save you alot of grief. it is possible that simply a wire has been burned or your cycling thermostat is gone. I would need a model number in order to give you a part number for this. hope this helps.


Oct 12, 2009 | GE Dryers

1 Answer

How do I know which thermal unit is the one that shuts the dryer off when the clothes are dry? one's called a cycling thermostat, another is called a fixed thermostat and the third is called thermal...

Usually the Fixed Thermostat (also known as the High Limit Thermostat) and Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) are used in conjunction to regulate and protect the heating circuits.

The Cycling Thermostat (also know as the Internal Bias) controls the amount of heat required/desired to dry your clothes.

You need to remove the rear panel of the dryer to access the heating circuits on this model dryer. With the back panel removed, the heating circuits will be on the right hand side and the blower fan assembly is located on the left. The Hi-Limit Thermostat and TCO are located on the outside of the heater box with the Hi-Limit Thermostat mounted next to the heating element terminals and the TCO located at the opposite end of the heater box. The Cycling Thermostat is located on the blower fan housing next the Thermal Fuse. It will be the metallic round component, while the Termal Fuse will be a white plastic component.

For better clarification, you can view an exploded view diagram of your appliance at If you type in your model number, all the parts I've mentioned are listed under Section 3 (Bulkhead Parts). The components are listed as follows:

Item 6 - TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat Kit (both parts should be replaced at the same time).
Item 15 - Hi-Limit Thermostat (sold separately)
Item 23 - Thermal Fuse
Item 24 - Cycling (Internal Bias) Thermostat

If you are experiencing heating problems or longer dry times, please review the following link:

Pay particular attention to the section that discusses dryer ventilation. The majority of dryer heat related problems and failures are attributed to poorly installed, clogged, or kinked dryer ventilation. If you haven't had the ducting checked in a while, now may be a good time to do so.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sep 10, 2009 | Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Tumble dryer overheating

This will occur if the running thermostat is stuck closed. This thermostat will be located inside the dryer on the vent duct or blower housing. it must be replaced in order to restore normal functions.

Also, improper ventilation can cause this as well. have the entire vent assembly cleaned asap.

Aug 08, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

My Son's dryer shuts down about 20 minutes into the drying cycle

Most dryer heat related problems can be attributed to poorly installed, kinked or clogged dryer ventilation ducting. It sounds like the Thermal Fuse may be beginning to fail. I have experienced this problem on only one other occasion. Normally the Thermal Fuse will blow (like a fuse is supposed to) and has to be replaced. However, I did have a problem similar to yours where the fuse would trip when it was hot, but when it cooled, the dryer worked fine. Now if you are having problems with the Thermal Fuse tripping, its generally for a reason. If the dryer exhaust vent ducting, or dryer interior has not been checked or cleaned recently, I would recommend doing so now.

A simple test that you can try is to remove the dryer vent hose from the back of the dryer and dry a load of clothes as you normally would. The air coming out of the exhaust vent should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees F). If your clothes dry normally, with no problems, I would recommend checking the ducting at the point where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. Locate and fix any sags, kinks or choke points that can lint to accumulate and clog.

If you have weak air flow, or if the dyrer shuts down like you been experiencing, I would begin by checking the dryer interior for clogs. In most cases, the dryer blower fan housing becomes built of with lint and can cause the dryer malfunction.

Cleaning the lint screens on these dryers is not always enough. Routine inspections of the dryer ducting and cabinet interior should be done about every 3 months. A dryer that remains in a clogged condition will actually run hotter, but dry less efficiently. This causes the heating circuits to run at higher temperatures. Sometimes to the point of failure. The also can cause a fire hazard.

The Thermal fuse is a small plastic looking component mounted on the blower fan housing with 2 wires attached to it. The other component that you may have on the blower fan housing is the operating (or bias) thermostat. It usually has 4 wires attached to it. With the dryer UNPLUGGED, you can disconnect the wires on the Thermal Fuse and take a resistance reading. It should read a short (0 ohms) if good. If bad, this reading will change when the component gets hot. The way I isolated my fault was to run the dryer until it failed, then took a quick resistance reading.

Let me know if you have any questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

Jun 27, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

No heat,tumbles,but no heat. good cont. thru thermal fuse,no cont. thru thermostat internal bias? think that is my problem? Any thing else I should check? I get good cont. thru heat coil also. thanks mike

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, you need to check the Thermal Cut-out and Hi-limit thermostat. The following link explains:

The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat are mounted on the heater box near the heating element. Read through the info I provided and double check the continuity of these components. If either the TCO, or Hi-Limit thermostat are bad, replace them BOTH at the same time. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any replaced components. They are commonly sold as a set.

NOTE: The Thermal Fuse and Internal Bias Thermostat are located on the air blower housing. If the Thermal Fuse were bad, the dryer would not run at all. The Internal Bias thermostat may still cause heating problems, but is less likely. Replace it if you like, but I think you may have a TCO that has failed.

If there has been a failure of the heating circuits, I would recommend you do a thorough cleaning of the dryer exhaust ventilation ducting to ensure you have no clogs. Poor air flow is the number one cause of dryer failures.

If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

May 05, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

It takes three cycles to dry clothes, andthere is heat?

The most likely cause is poor airflow. This may be due to a clogged lint screen (should be cleaned after each load) or a clogged vent. Run the dryer empty and feel the airflow from the vent outlet (where the vent exits the house). If there isn't a good strong flow of air, remove the duct where it attaches to the dryer and check for flow right at the dryer. If there still isn't good flow you may have a bad blower, but chances are the duct is clogged with lint. If it's the white plastic flexible duct or the corrugated metal kind you should replace it with solid 4-inch vent pipe. This will give the best airflow and the smooth walls won't promote lint buildup.

Jan 26, 2009 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore Heater not heating like it used to!

If your dryer IS heating, more than likely the heating element is NOT the cause. There are two thermostats that control the operation of the heating circuits. One, is the operating thermostat which regulates the internal temperature around 150 degrees and the other is the Hi-limit thermostat that cuts-off the heating circuits in an overheat condition of about 250 degrees. You can access the internal components through the lower front panel under the door. The panel can be removed by inserting a putty knife in the top seam where the panel meets the front cabinet about 2 inches in from each side. There are two retaining clips that you need to depress with the putty knife to remove the panel. Once the panel is removed, locate the heater box on the right hand side under the drum. The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat are located on the left hand side of the heat box. The Operating Thermostat (Internal Bias) is located on the blower fan housing under the drum. There are drawings available at or to assist you. Simply type in your COMPLETE model number (inlcude the "110." prefix) and you will find the heating circuits located under the "Bulkhead" heading. The Operating Thermostat (Internal Bias) is listed as item number 42, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is listed as item number 48.

What you need to do first is determine is the blower fan housing is unobstructed. I know you mentioned cleaning your dryer, but did you also clean the INTERIOR. The blower fan housing can be a common point for lint to collect and restrict air flow. In addition (no attempt to insult anyone's intelligence here) are you making sure you properly sort your laundry when drying? More dense items, will take longer to dry and overloading can cause the same problem.

If your blower fan housing is clear, I suspect you may have a defective Operating Thermostat. If you wish to double check everything to make sure, the following link explains some common causes of dryer problems:

If you have questions, or if you require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you solve your problem.

PS Even though I said I didn't believe the heating element to be bad, does not necessarily mean it is. They DO become weak with age and may not heat as well as they should. Double check the resistance. NOTE: Please ensure you UNPLUG the dryer before servicing. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Also, make sure you disconnect any wire leads when measuring across components for more accurate resistance readings.

Jan 14, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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