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No heat and i just replaced the heating element. could I have connected the wires wrong or could it be the thermostat?

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Could be timer. Try a different heat cycle.

Posted on Oct 07, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Water heater blinks 7 times. I don't get any hot water. Model # is MITW4056FBN


Hope this helps..I have also attached a link that may be useful.

No Hot Water
REASON REMEDY No power Check fuses or circuit breaker, replace or reset. Check with utility if necessary Wrong wiring connections at heater terminal Correct according to manufacturer's instructions Leaks around heating elements (1) Tighten element (2) If necessary, clean and replace with new gasket Loose wiring connection Locate loose connections. Clean carefully (remove all oxidation). Reconnect properly Lightning Inspect: (1) fuse (or circuit breaker). (2) Heater elements, and (3) thermostat, replace if necessary, see "grounding instructions" below High voltage Check utility for correction Short Locate short circuit and correct Wrong piping connections Reconnect pipes to proper fittings according to manufacturer's instructions Undersize service wiring Check with utility co. or electrician Improper calibration Replace thermostat Faulty thermostat Replace Faulty thermal cutout Replace Open thermal cutout Reset Top heating element burned out Replace
http://www.bradfordwhite.com/sites/default/files/product_literature/48494-A.pdf

Jan 13, 2018 | Water Water Heaters

1 Answer

Dryer heats briefly then heat cuts out


Sounds like a bad thermostat...There is one (some models two) disc type thermostats, about the size of a quarter that are wired into the heating element circuit. Take the back panel off and find the heating element. There should be a thermostat with two wires attached connected to the heating element. Unplug those wires and remove the thermostat and replace it. Be sure the unit is unplugged before you start.

Oct 12, 2014 | Tricity Bendix TM220W Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Changed top thermostat 11060832990 and now pops breaker


Sounds like incorrect wiring, like you have a "hot" wire going to the chassis somewhere. I'd double/triple check the connections. If you only pulled off the 2 thermostat wires, and reconnected them directly back, then it's unlikely that's the problem, but if you disconnected the thermal fuse or other connectors along the way, it sounds like something is hooked back up wrong. Good luck!

Dec 04, 2013 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

My Frigidaire model FDB1050 will not heat the water. The heating element checked out at bout 14 ohms but the approximately 8" wire from the heating element to what I think is a thermostat is slightl


Hello preslncon - The black button that you are referring to is more than likely the Hi-Limit Thermostat. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will open and stop power from reaching the heating element. The Hi-Limit is not resettable, and if it is open, it would need replacing. As far as the burnt wire on the Thermostat, more than likely a loose connection to the Thermostat could have possibly caused the wire to overheat. This is not a typical do it yourself job. Personally, I would recommend reaching out to a qualified appliance repair person to proceed further. I hope this information helps to some degree.

Apr 14, 2013 | Frigidaire 24 in. FDB1050REC Stainless...

1 Answer

I have a Honeywell LR1620 Thermostat that I am replacing with a Honeywell RTH230B. I se where all the wires go to on the new thermostat EXCEPT the blue wire that is attached to the "W2" terminal...


If your old t-stat had a W2 terminal with a blue wire connected, and your new t-stat does not have a W2 terminal, then you may have purchased the wrong t-stat. The old is a 2 stage heat where your new is a 1 stage heat. 2 stage heat means the tstat will engage 2 heat elements, then if it continues to get cool inside, the Tatar will engage w2 and the remaining 1 or 2 heat elements. If you want it like it was to begin with, you'll need a 2 stage heat 1 stage cool tstat.

Oct 10, 2017 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Roper dryer does not heat . replaced heating element and thermal fuse. what's wrong


No heat at all is usually the thermal fuse, the high limit thermostat, the heating element or you have a bad breaker at the box and are running on 1/2 phase (or 110 only).


With the power OFF and the dryer unplugged. Use and ohms meter (borrow one or pick up a cheap one for around $10-$15) & check the high limit thermostat (right hand side at the base of the housing for the heating element), take the wires off both terminals and check for continuity between the terminal (set the meter of ohms place the black lead on one terminal of the thermostat & the red lead on the other terminal, doesn't matter which, the needle should move, if it doesn't, replace the thermostat).

You can check all the thermostats, fuses, door switch & the heating element this way.

Feb 12, 2011 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer quit heating no power to element what is wrong?


The problem is most likely the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and since these parts are wired in series with the heating element, power to the heating element is therefore terminated. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off and if it reads open, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat.

You can bypass the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat for troubleshooting purposes. Join together the wires of each part and insulate it properly then reconnect power. The two components indeed need to be replaced if the dryer heats up. If not and still no power to the heating element, check the continuity of the heating circuit. Check the continuity/resistance of the heating element if there's power to its terminals but doesn't heat. Replace the heating element if it reads open.

Let us know if you need further advice. Just indicate the exact model number of the dryer for accurate troubleshooting tips.

Jan 23, 2011 | Kenmore 700 6972 Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer Heats for 30 Minutes then stops heating


Hello there :
what you are going to want to do is to troubleshoot the heating circuit
if you have a multimeter
there is a thermal Cut-Out switch that is connected to the heater box.) -simply unplug wires and take reading from the end connetors
your reading should be 0 ohms. and nothing else
Next check
a part called the Hi-Limit Thermostat that is connected to the heater box, it should be located closest to the heating element wire leads unplug the wires and take the reading across the 2 wire connections . this should give you a reading of 0 ohms and nothing else.
Now if any of these 2 parts are not in this range they need to be replaced and i would recommend that you replace them as a set cause if one usually goes out then the other one will soon follow ok

I hope this is very helpful for you
Best regards Michael

Jan 09, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

Whirlpool dryer LER5656EZ3 no heat


If the heating element read 0 ohms with the wires removed, you have an open heating element, (should be around 10 ohms) replace heating element and you should be ready to rock.

Sep 13, 2008 | Dryers

2 Answers

Kenmore Electric Dryer Model # 110.62622101


Wedge, one red wire to the right terminal of the heating element. The safety thermostat should of had a piggy back that fits over the left side terminal of the element and connected to one side of the safety thermostat. Other red to other side of safety thermostat, Orange from the timer (smaller connector) to the respective connection on jumper. Catriver.

Dec 01, 2007 | Kenmore 72982 Gas Dryer

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