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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Had the same problem with some makita batteries, Was going to throw them away so decided to take apart and see what was happening. The are made up of 1.5 volt cells soldered together, found that many had .9 volts or less and others had 1.5 or more. This means that some of the cells had gone bad (probably due to lack of chemical reaction). Found that if I collected all of the 1.5 volt together could charge just fine. Problem is it is very hard to get them all soldered back together and even harder to enclose them. If a mfg. could come up with some way to change cells individually they could make a lot of money and save us a lot. So the answer to your question is buy you at least one more battery and recycle your old one.
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
SOURCE: NiCad battery not charging
the charger adapter that plugs into the battery pac from the wall has a fuse inside it open it uo and check the fuse has not blown as that's normally the reason i get no light on the pac also using a small enough file clean off all the terminals and check that the spring terminals contacting the circuit board from the plug are not corroded and contacting correctly
Posted on Apr 24, 2009
You are probably skeptical that maybe the directions telling you not to do that are just intended to get you to buy more stuff. We've all been there. However, Li-ion batteries are very different from nicads. Used incorrectly they can be downright dangerous. So, no, don't try using the nicad charger for the Li-Ion batteries.
Posted on Apr 12, 2010
For NiCd and NiMH batteries - check the battery voltage (for a good battery it is ~ 19, V); each battery contains 15 units 1.2 V each; you can test each unit after disassembling the battery case (my have 4 screws each, and the case has bottom and top parts). First charge the batteries; second, disassemble cases and check each unit voltage (shouldn't be less than 1.2 V); then take any battery tester (for AA, AAA and other batteries and accus for home usage), attach 2 long (~10 inches) wires to tester's testing contacts, and test each 1.2V unit for current - if it is in "yellow" or "red" zone - the unit is dead and needs replacement
Posted on Jun 08, 2010
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