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The rubber seal on your washer and similar front loading washers is a relatively easy repair. The seal is held onto the front washer panel and the fixed inside washer drum with separate spring-loaded rings that are reusable. So, don't throw them away! You need to remove the front ring from the front panel before you can remove the front panel. With the ring removed the gasket should be pushed into the washer; noting any drain holes, so that you can reinstall the new gasket in the same orientation. Once the outer ring is removed and the front panel is out of the way, you will have access to the ring holding the gasket to the drum. After the inside ring is removed, the gasket should pull off the fixed washer drum. You are now ready to install the new replacement gasket.
The amount of disassembly of the front of the washer is your option if it interferes with the installation. The door is usually heavy and it is useful to remove it from the front panel. Usually, a couple screws holds it in place. Removal of the front panel may also involve removal of the top of the washer and moving the control panel out of the way so that you can access the screws holding the front panel onto the frame of the washer. The locking latch may have to be temporarily removed but can be left in place if you simply push the front panel out of the way to have access to the inside gasket ring. It is useful to take pictures of each stage of the disassembly process to make sure your reinstall everything as it was.
Installation of the gasket starts with reattaching it to the fixed washer drum flange and then replacing the spring-loaded ring to hold it in place. Make sure the gasket orientation matches the original position. After the gasket is attached to the drum, you can now reinstall the front panel. If you unscrewed the latch mechanism when you took off the panel, now is the time to reinstall it as it can be manually held in place behind the gasket. The door can usually remain off the front panel until installation of the gasket onto the front panel is complete. Now bring the gasket forward and reinstall it on the flange of the front panel; secure it in place with the spring-loaded ring. Your gasket is now reinstalled. Simply reinstall the door and your repair is complete.
Tools needed include a blade screwdriver to help pry the rings off the gasket seal and one or two specialty screwdrivers (usually Torx or Philips) to remove the front panel.
Fairly easy to do. It is held on with 2 wire rings, one on the outside edge of the seal when you open the door and when that is removed there is another one holding it to the outer drum. Removal of the lid may also help with removal of the inner ring. When refitting you press the lip of the seal over the outer drum edge and fit the retaining ring back and then do the same on the front where the door meets the seal. Just make sure the small drain holes in the seal are located at the bottom, best to look at the old one to see how it's fitted before you remove it.
You can certainly diy. Unplug the washer. With the door open, look at the bottom of the seal. You'll see a ring clamp. Loosen the screw and remove the clamp. Peel the seal inward. It is easier to complete the seal swap with the front off. Remove the door and set aside. Locate the screws for the front of the machine and remove them, gaining access to the seal. Youcan either set the door to the side with the door lock wires still attached, or unclip them, which is easier. With the seal folded inward, you will likely find another clamp at the bottom. Loosen this as well. Remove the seal and replace with the new one, making sure to orient it like the old one was, and fold it to the inside like you had the old one for removal. Replace the front panel. Complete the seal installation, being careful to make sure that the clamp removed earlier gets put back in the groove and seats well. Reinstall the door.
Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
Remove the differential housing cover (4033).
Loosen the bolts and drain the lubricant from the rear axle housing (4010).
Remove the bolts.
Remove the differential housing cover.
Remove the rear brake disc (2C026). For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .
CAUTION: Turning the differential case (4204) or an axle shaft (4234) with the differential pinion shaft (4211) removed will cause the differential pinion gears (4215) to fall out of the assembly and damage the components. Remove the differential pinion shaft.
Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
Remove the differential pinion shaft.
CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-ring in the U-washer groove.
Remove the U-washer (4N237).
Push the axle shaft inboard.
Remove the U-washer.
Reinstall the differential pinion shaft.
Install the differential pinion shaft.
Install the differential pinion shaft lock bolt finger-tight.
CAUTION: Do not damage the wheel bearing oil seal (1177). Remove the axle shaft.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Seal Removal
Remove the axle shaft (4334). For additional information, refer to Axle Shaft in this section.
CAUTION: Never remove the wheel bearing oil seal (1177) by itself. Always remove the rear wheel bearing (1225) and the inner wheel bearing oil seal at the same time. NOTE: If the wheel bearing oil seal is leaking, the axle housing vent may be plugged with foreign material. Using the special tools, remove the rear wheel bearing and wheel bearing oil seal together.
Lubricate the new rear wheel bearing.
For 4.0L SOHC and 4.0L EI with limited slip rear axles and 5.0L vehicles, use SAE 75W-140 High Performance Rear Axle Lubricant F1TZ-19580-B or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSL-M2C192-A.
For 4.0L SOHC and 4.0L EI with conventional rear axles, use SAE 80W-90 Premium Rear Axle Lubricant XY-80W90-QL or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSP-M2C197-A.
Using the special tools, install the rear wheel bearing.
Lubricate the lip of the new wheel bearing oil seal.
Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
Using the special tools, install the wheel bearing oil seal.
Install the axle shaft. For additional information, refer to Axle Shaft in this section.
To replace the window seal, you first have to remove the vent window assembly from the door. After it is removed, the nut and spring on the bottom of the window has to be removed. Then remove the glass and frame from the vent assembly frame. Then gently remove the rubber off of the frame and install the new one after you replace the top vent bar seals. Reverse the window removal procedures to reinstall the glass and frame. The top vent bar seals requires a special tool to remove and replace the rivets you get with the replacement seal. You need to replace the top vent bar seal before reinstalling the new vent window rubber. When I replaced my top vent seals, it was fairly easy with my removal/installation tool.
On the WS 5426 the elements are mounted at the bottom of the drum of the accessed by opening the front of the machine.
Removal of the elements will involve destroying the rubber seal and can be done by cutting two vertical slots with a sharp knife in the seal and then pulling hard on the seal with a pair of pliers. It is not necessary to remove the spring clamps or drip shield but it will aid access to the seal.
There is a spring at the bottom center of the door gasket. Stretch that out and a wire will come off from around the gasket you can then pull the gasket off and reach in. Be sure you get the gasket back on all the way and the wire right or it will leak. Good luck.