Question about Vizio GV47LF Television
Same problem on our GV47L-FHDTV10A was caused by a VERY small fuse on the mainboard. On top right of mainboard there are 3 small fuses they are white with gold ends. The left one (f1) is 1.5 amp we just soldered one from radio shack on it to bypass the fuse and it is working like a champ now.
Posted on May 05, 2010
I had the same problem. I replaced the Main Board and it fixed the problem! It was not difficult to do at all as I am a novice at best. The main board has connections to audio, back light power supply and front control panel. It has the HDMI, Composite connections, etc attached as well. Total repair time including putting the back on was about 30-40 min. I obtained the part the part from VIZPARTS.COM and it was about $200 including 2 day air shipping. Good Luck!
Posted on Dec 24, 2009
Alright, First thank you for the hint... but I bet that even though you have fixed your LCD with this F3 Fuse, you are still not at ease of why changing this fuse fixed your LCD TV.. And wonder if there something else going wrong with the board..... At least that was in my mind last few days :-) so I found the answer for this... and Surely the F3 replacement is the correct answer.... but there is more to it....
What I did was to insert an AMP meter in place of the bad fuse,,, and turn it on.... I did this to prove one of the theories below:
1-If the Current meter shows more than 1.5A current ==> bad component exists and will cause new fuse to burn...==>more debug or buy new board..
2-If the current meter show less than 1.5A, ==>bad fuse and Why???
Surprisingly, the meter shows 1.1A at power on, and settles down at 0.95A...
From the paper standpoint, this fuse should be able to handle the current... but when you look into the application and the fuse spec, I don't think it makes sense.
-first, this is fuse from Little fuse 451_453 series.
According to spec and in general, the fuse will have this spec "Derating depicted in this curve is in addition to the standard derating of 25% for continuous operation."
-If you are carefully look at the note at the power connection to this fuse (Mine is J7 for GV47L FHDTV10A), it shows that F3 is 5VSB (standby voltage)... and F2, F1 are 5V and 12V... (only power on when TV is on)
Assume, you plug your TV in the wall all the time, this voltage will be present to power all the circuits such as infrared, remote,,,,.. that mean it will eventually degrade by 25% so the fuse will become 1.1A fuse instead of 1.5A fuse...
Also from the spec, the fuse will also decrease with temperature... And of course, I don't see any fan in system and only the venting holes....
If you install your TV in place that can block the venting or insufficient venting, the temperature inside the unit get warmer... (actually, you can feel it too, don't you when you stand behind the TV)....
Assume that the temperature will degrade the fuse by another 10%, now the fuse is effectively 1A fuse... If the board draws 1A fuse and you have 1A fuse... it will eventually burn....
This also explains why everyone in this forum or from the internet only get F3 fuse burn and not F1 or F2...
So are you safe with the same exact fuse you replace??? I am not sure.... but I think it is much safer if you install a 2A fuse in there instead of the same fuse... With 2A fuse, you will have some head room with all the degrading due to continuous operation and temperature factored in.
Good luck all
Posted on Jun 23, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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