With no colour coded insulation, knowing which wire is hot
I have to replace a 3-pronged plug on a heater. I stripped the 3 wires in the cord. Both the 2 outer wires have no colour-coded insulation to tell me which is hot or neutral. One does have printing on it. Would that be the hot wire? - Stryder
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Re: With no colour coded insulation, knowing which wire...
Take your old cord out. If you notice there is one side that is a little bigger than the other. Take a meter and measure the continuity from the larger side to the wire end and thats how you can tell which is which. Do the same on your new cord and that will tell you which one to put where. Like this..... ------>l l<---- o
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on 220 wiring you have 2 hot wires and one ground sometimes you may have a neutral but not for this. should have something labeled L1, L2, and ground it does not mater if you get the hot wires backwards to L1 and L2. take a pic
In USA, Either the male or female plug connector would be wired the same. Black is hot wire and would connect to the BRASS colored round head screw ( Smallest flat prong or slot ). White is the neutral wire and would connect to the SILVER colored round head screw ( Largest flat prong or slot ). Green is the ground wire and would connect to the GREEN screw ( ONLY HEX shaped screw ). 1) FOR YOUR LIFE SAFETY, ALWAYS USE 3-WIIRE PLUGS WHEN REPAIRING 3-WIRE EXTENSION CORDS! 2) Check the male plug connector. It should have two flat and one rounded prong. The rounded prong is the ground wire connection. If the ground prong is missing, replace the plug. 3) Inspect the outer cover for damage. 4) Do not use cords with damaged outer covers. Taping over the damage is not an adequate repair, for safety, replace the cord.
Assuming this involves a USA power system, the larger (usually silver) prong is the "neutral" contact. The smaller (sometimes gold) blade is the "hot" contact. If you are using a 3 wire cord cap, the round or U shaped pin is the "ground". Two wire cord caps should only be used if the equipment (heater) is electrically double insulated. The existing cord will determine which cord cap can be used. It is also important to use the correct ampere rated cord cap.
As for your heater cable, the easiest method is to use an ohm meter to identify the wires. Open a plate or panel on the heater near the cord. The "hot" wire will be connected to a fuse or switch on the heater. Ensure the switch is off or the fuse is pulled (to isolate the wire from other components), then use an ohm meter to test from the "hot" terminal to the other end of the wire (continuity check). The display readout should be very near zero (less than 10 ohms). Repeat the process for the other wire.
For a Double Insulated device the Only cord to be used is a two wire one for Active and Neutral connections. The preferred plug for Double Insulated devices is a two prong one. Some times when a replacement plug is required a three prong one is used on the 2 wire cord with no connection to the ground pin and has no bearing on the operation of the equipment.
Read through the instructions provided and let me know if you have questions. This advice is how to convert from a 3 prong to a 4 prong appliance cord. You simply match the corresponding colors of the wires on the cord you intend to attach to the matching colors at the terminal block on the back of the dryer. If the wires are not color coded at the terminal block, the outer two wires (left and right) are the HOT leads, the center wire is the Neutral. Make sure the neutral ad ground wires remain independent of each other in a 4 wire configuration. The green wire should be terminated on a ground lug on the equipment cabinet while the neutral is terminated at the terminal block.
Let me know if you require further assistance. I hope this help you.
You should change the plug at the wall. From your description, your dryer plug has two hot wires and a ground.
Your existing plug probably has 4 wires to it - two hots (120 volts each), a neutral (white), and a ground (green). The two hots are probably black or black and some other color.
You will need to match the plug on your dryer cord with the plug at the wall. The type of plug required should be described in your owner's manual. If you don't have that, then take a digital picture of the plug on the cord of your dryer and bring it to your local hardware or home improvement store. They should be able to match the companion wall plug for you.
Make sure the power is off (important). Remove the existing wall plug. When you wire it back up - this time with only three wires, connect the two hots (black and some other color) to the two hot prongs (terminals) and the green wire to the ground prong. Put a wire nut on the end of the white wire and tuck it back into the connection box. That's it. Turn the power back on and test for proper voltage and wiring configuration at the wall plug before you plug the dryer back in.
If you aren't familiar or comfortable with working on electrical apparatus, you should have a licensed electrician do this work for you. This solution also assumes you are in the USA.
A 3 prong plug is for 240 volt (hot-hot-ground) the 4 prong plug is for 120/240 volt (hot-hot-neutral-ground). If your device requires a 4 prong plug, it is not a good idea to connect it to a 3 prong circuit (you will create a possible lethal electrical condition). If your device requires a 3 prong connection, a 4 prong cord can be used by not connecting the neutral (white wire). If you have any questions, let me know.
ok on a drier on your terminal block the center wire is neutral the other two are hot on a four prong cord the green or ground wire connects to the body of the drier if the dryer already has a green wire coneccted to the body of the dryer then take it loose and hook it to the neutral terminal of the dryer then hook the green wire or ground of the cord where it was if you need any more help let me know
one of the conductors has a rib impressed into the insulation - this is the "identified" conductor and goes on the nickel colored screw of the replacement plug. the other is the "black" or hot and goes to the brass colored screw.