Question about Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Not level problem

My washing machine will fill up and agitate, but will not drain or spin. It's not the lid switch because there isn't one there and wasn't when I got it, it's not because it's not level it never moved from it's original spot. I'm thinking it may be the pump, Any other suggestions? Thank you in advance for any help you may have.

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  • Master
  • 1,937 Answers

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Please see the Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and operations manual for top load direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission. The pump on top load direct drive machines runs when the motor reverses to go into spin mode. If you can hear the motor running, it's possible that the pump may also be bad.

The spinning is driven by the transmission and has no relation to the pump.

We had the same no spin problem:

The problem could be in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode. Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

OR

ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

Posted on Oct 07, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: Washer does nothing but FILL!!

suspect timer contacts bad but ck wire harness to motor just to be sure also if i remember correctly those may also have off balance switch that would cause problems but not sure if water would run in if they are bad ..sorry oldfixer memory ain't what it use to be

Posted on May 02, 2008

  • 958 Answers

SOURCE: washer fills wont agitate or spin

supposed to be a problem only with water level switch.

hhhmmmnnn...

try checking the hose that goes from the bottom end to the pressure switch. if there is a hole or a crack or anything loose on the connection. if the pressure won't build up on the water level switch, it wont transfer the contacts to start agitating.

test the water level switch by pulling the hose from the drum end and blow unto it until you hear a click on the water level switch. this should turn your agitator so please be careful and watch out for parts moving rapidly.

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool

Posted on Oct 28, 2008

  • 636 Answers

SOURCE: agitator doesnt start

Sounds like the lid switch is acting up on you.

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

hiltonjug
  • 612 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 80 series won't agitate

You will need to check you water level switch. Sound like it is bad or has something clogging it. You can test it like this. Find the tube that runs from the back of the level switch down to the outer tub. Unplug it from the tub. Now turn machine on so that it will start to fill. Now blow pressure into the tube. If it does not cut the water off, you have a bad switch. I would think it's bad. I see them about 5 ir 6 times a week.
Please rate solution if helpful.

Posted on Aug 25, 2009

Jahn27
  • 1554 Answers

SOURCE: Kitchen Aid Washer- fills ok

This is a clear evidence of a broken motor coupler. The mechanical output of the motor is not transferred to the transmission and therefore result in the agitator not to agitate and the drum not to spin. It drains because the drain pump is directly coupled to the rear spline of the motor. Replace the motor coupler to address the problem.

Release the console from the top of the cabinet depending on the model of your machine then pull forward and up on the console and lay it back on the hinges.
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Disconnect the lid switch harness connector by pressing on the tab, located in the middle, and pulling it up.
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The cabinet is attached to the rear of the washer by two brass-colored retaining clips. Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the turned-up edge of the clip, located on both sides, and then pry back to release the clip from the slot in the cabinet.
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Open and hold the lid while grabbing the cabinet front opening then tilt the top of the cabinet toward you by pulling the cabinet away from the base. This releases the front and back slots of the cabinet from the tabs in the front and back of the base. Using the side of your leg and/or body as a support for the front of the cabinet, carefully lift up and set the cabinet aside.
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With the cabinet removed, pry the clips securing the pump to the motor off and remove the pump.
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Disconnect the motor harness then remove the screw securing the bottom clip holding the motor and remove the clip. Hold the motor from the bottom while loosening the screw securing the top clip holding the motor. Remove the clip then pull the motor out of the washer.
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Remove the broken coupler parts from the transmission and the motor shaft then tap the new coupler parts in place or until the splines are even with the edge of the coupler.
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Remove the motor mounting plate to remove the coupler part in the transmission side more easily.
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Once the coupler parts are properly installed, put the rubber grommet into the coupler in the motor then line up the remaining slots on the grommet with the coupler prongs in the transmission and put them together.

Secure the motor with the clips and the clips with the screws then reconnect the motor wiring harness to the motor terminals and reinstall the pump.

Bring the cabinet to the front of the washer then slide the front bottom rail of the cabinet under the rail at the base of the machine then lay down the cabinet into position. Make sure the slots in the cabinet sit into the tabs at the base of machine.

Reconnect the lid switch harness then push the retaining clips back down into position to secure the cabinet to the rear of the machine. Reinstall and secure the console to complete the repair.


Posted on Aug 11, 2010

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