I have several of these decks, and a few have developed noisy video, but only from the tuner. The noise resembles a moving herringbone pattern. I've swapped out the tuner and mpx board with a known good one. I even swapped out the power supply. No difference.
Any ideas? Tracing the tuner video throught the deck is about as far as you can get from easy. The service manual offers little encouragement.
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Re: Noisy video on tuner input
Well, if replacing the tuner did not solve it, the next likely culprit
is the power supply. Does it look OK on A/V cable input?
You didn't say what brand this is but all the older Matshushita made
VCRs (panasonic, sylvania, quasar, magnavox ond others) have power
supplies that fail often in this manner spewing out noise that
interferes with the video signals. Some of us know how to repair
the supplies as they are usually not available for replacement.
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check out the pulleys from the pto to the deck for noise - if rumbly / noisy replace them , if not
remove pto to deck belt ( make note of belt routing 1st ) then rotate blades and spindles by hand give a good spin you should hear if noisy , grab blades and try to move them fore/ aft to see have movement if they do and they are not smooth and quite spindle bearings are the problem
generally if unit is noisy only when deck engaged bearings will cause this
but make sure pulleys on the top of eack spindle good to and everything is tight
a badly slipping vee belt will make a squeeling noise and somtimes will make the unit shudder
you will have to remove deck to replace bearing(s) , from experience replace mandrell/ spindle assys do both at same time because if one has gone the other wont be far behind - both do same milage and work and quite often if replace bearings only they dont go back in tight .
If the vehicle has had proper oil changes,the noisy valve lifters may the oil filter.If the anti-drainback valve is defective and the filter is at an angle,it may take a few extra seconds to refill before can supply the engine with normal oil pressure.
Also,at the last oil change,has the proper oil viscosity been used?
The noise at the dash is usually a hose.Have someone move the hoses a little while you sit inside and listen for changes in that noise at 2000 to 3000 rpm.As it becomes quiet,adjust the hose or whatever that new position.
Check ease of drum moving that it moved freely. Remove panels Is motor noisy? Check belt. Is movement of drum noisy? Make sure exhaust is not clogged. Can the air move freely to the outside. Make sure there are no kinks in exhaust line. Determine cause of noise then you have a few choices. Repair, lubricate replace parts or replace dryer. Sometime you just need to use it until it doesn't work anymore and then buy a new one depending on the cost of repairs vs. replacement.
Noise comes when some part of the moving part is getting collided or getting stuck somewhere. Try cleaning the wash cycle and the rinse drum. It is the only cause of noise. Thank you, Sir to visit Fixya.
There are several things that can cause a dryer to be noisy. There
are a lot of moving parts in a dryer that can cause noises to occur
when they get worn. Several parts support the drum, and may make noise
or vibrations when worn out. Many times a dryer will squeak just a
little bit as it first starts. This should go away in just a few
seconds. Make sure nothing is loose inside the drum. Remove the lint
trap and look below the lint trap holder for any loose items that may
have slipped through the cracks.
The blower wheel is
always moving and lint is constantly going by it. If it’s noisy, it may
have gotten clogged with lint, or it may be worn and need to be
replaced. Clean out the area around the blower. If it’s still noisy,
Many dryers use a center spindle to support the clothes drum. This
spindle may be a ball-and-socket support, or it may be a shaft inside a
sleeve. When these component bearings get worn out, they may make a
squealing or rubbing sound. Replace this bearing when it gets worn out.
Many dryers also use plastic glides in the front end of the clothes
drum. When these glides are worn out, you may hear a lot of noise. If
the glides are worn, replace them as a set.
Some dryers use rollers to support the clothes drum. If these
rollers or wheels are worn out, they can be extremely noisy. You ought
to replace the whole set at the same time. A belt that has been damaged
or frayed may make a thumping or slapping sound as the drum turns.
The gas valve solenoid will make a buzz type of sound as it opens.
The valve itself will give a little click as it starts the heat cycle,
when ignition begins, and when the burner is turning off. The burner
flame itself makes kind of a low-pitched roaring wind sound.
Generally, crackling noises come from anyplace there is a mechancial connection for the sound signal. The volume control, main/remote speaker switch and possibly the headphone jack. That is where the contacts must be cleaned, but it requires dissassembly. Try operating the main/remote speaker switches, and plug/unplug a headphone several times. I am assuming there is still audio behind that crackling. Are you using both main and remote speakers simultaneously?