Question about GE Refrigerators

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Refrigerator is only getting to 46 degrees but freezer is working fine. I pulled the back panel in the freezer and it is not freezing up. (last spring I replaces the defrost heating element and thermostat). Not sure why the refrigerator is not getting as cold as it used to. Adjusting the Refrigerator temp knob in the refrigerator portion does not solve the problem. Thanks in advance

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

whytfang
  • 170 Answers

SOURCE: freezer is cold but refrigerator isn't

Number one when you can always provide model number and make...it helps enormously in troubleshooting otherwise you get these long detailed threads...from an anal tech like myself.

Cold is a relative term....how cold...use a thermometer...and determine if the freezer...is at least..10-20 degrees or colder if not it is not cold enough...and here are some generic answers for that problem....I will list at the bottom of this thread...if it is

A. You will need to determine if you are getting air flow into the refrigerator side compartment..there is usually a baffle...that controls...the amount of air-flow into the frig side...it can be adjusted...if not it could be broken or have come loose...it is rare...

B. Is something blocking the baffle...as in food ...groceries...

C. The thermostat could be out of adjustment...and or going bad...(how old is the frig)..

D. Some newer units have a dual fan system..(but rare)..if the frig side fan is out...this could be the problem...

There are several reasons this can be happening...

1. The seal on the door may have a tear or may not be seating properly...this allows excess warm air into the freezer compartment and in its effort to remove the same ...frost appears.

2. There is something call a thermistor (which senses temp and ice build up) that is cycled on and off as needed to remove excess frost accumulation and or ice buildup on the evaporator (freezer) coils...it is a heat strip which actually defrost the frost/ice. If this is not working frost will accumulate and eventually it will become Ice......now the remarkable thing about Ice accumulation is that you would think everything would remain cold or get colder ..however in this case the opposite occurs...it insulates the coils and thereby increasing the temperature...put a thermometer...one that is calibrated properly...(calibration can be set by placing a thermometer into a glass of ice water...the temp of a glass of ice water..after a few minutes setting will be exactly 32 degrees)..if the temperature of your refrigerator is gradually rising over the period of a week...you will need to call a tech or replace the thermistor and or trouble shoot other problems that may have occur such as..

3. The evaporator fan may be going out although they usually make a high pitched whining noise of a whirring noise before they go out...not always and if they are intermittently cycling off then frost would build up...do you always here a fan running when you open the freezer and hold the button in above the door..(fan switch)...if so that is good...fan is working...but it may be cycling off at times when no one is aware.
P.S. the odds of it being due to overfilling are slim...I have been in the industry for 35 years and that is what freezers do...which a lot of people don't realize is that freezers don't actually cool anything ..they just remove heat and when you remove all the heat all that is left is cold (like in space) and when heat is removed quickly frost can appear like when you blow your breath on a freezing cold window..then right your name....but I digress...any way..if there was an excess of heat due to a lot of new food in the freezer it would correct itself by one of the processes i mentioned above..and it would never result in Ice..you probably have one or more of the problems I mentioned...evaluate how long its been going on...

4. Thermostat could be out of adjustment..and or not functioning
properly..which would delay or inhibit a defrost cycle..from occurring..unfortunately almost all of these problems require a tech...or a good handyman.

This should lead you in the right direction...if you need help in finding a reputable service company in your area let us know..I hope this has been helpful..if so PLEASE rate me....thank you... .......The Fang

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

bobicehouse
  • 1524 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool refrigerator dispensing cool (but not cold) water!

You are correct. Same as refrigerator temperature.

Posted on May 04, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: The refrigerator portion has quit cooling.

I have the same problem and have found that if you take the panel off inside the refrigerator and with a blow dryer defrost it. It should work for a few weeks. I have been doing this once a month since March and I hope to found out how to fix it also.

Posted on May 18, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Samsung model RS2556SH, refrigerator

Refrigerator temperaure gauge keeps blinking and fridge is only cooling to 35 degrees

Posted on Feb 17, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: refrigerator will not hold temperature lower than 44 degrees!!

I bet it's a GE Monogram? I have the SAME problem. Our refrigerator is stuck at 44 degrees. It was stuck at 47 degrees, but after 6 visits from the repairman we now have it down to 44 degrees! At first we didn't realize how bad it was, and we were eating food that was making us sick! My daughter was admitted into the hospital from severe intestinal problems and without getting into details... this has cost her health, and tens of thousands in medical bills.

We have thrown out a ton of food. The repairman has replaced a bunch of parts including a fan, a thermostat, replaced a switch, cleaned, checked the gaskets, replaced a thermostat control device, and possibly other stuff as I can't keep track anymore. He's has been coming 2-3 times per week for the last 3 weeks. And now says the ONLY thing it can be is a "leak" in the copper line. Since it is a sealed system he has to tap the copper line with a valve to check the pressure, and that valve will always have to stay in place once it is tapped. And we will have to have the freon filled every so often because valves will slowly lose the freon over time.

This GE monogram is suppose to be a top of the line GE appliance. Our entire kitchen is GE Monogram, and we have had many many problems with most all of the appliances. The dishwasher was replaced at approx. 4 years due to over priced service calls, and super expensive parts. GE wanted close to $300 for an upper dishwasher rack. It was less expensive to buy a new one.

Don't these appliance manufacturer's get it? They may save money on the manufacturing side, however they lost a customer for life. Not only did they lose me, they lost my daughter, my son, and my grandson.

These GE appliances that are built to fail end up filling up our landfills. GE should be embarrassed.

Possibly have your repairman check the copper line for leaks? We're waiting to see today if that will work.

Posted on May 12, 2010

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The fridge is not cooling. Error ER DH showing on door. Freezer works fine. Was told that the PCB board is to be replaced as well as the defrost module. Cost will be approx $600. Can you advise o


The "Er dH," also known as the Defrost Heater Error message, is displayed when the unit fails to reach 46? F within 2 hours of beginning its defrost cycle. This may be an indication of the defrost heater having broken or the temperature fuse having been pulled out of its slot. Contact customer service if the problem persists after having attempted a system reset.
Quick Fix
  • Unplug the refrigerator for 30 seconds and then plug it back in. Doing this will reset all the codes. Sometimes an error appears by fault. If it does not appear again after restarting, then the refrigerator is fine. If the code appears again, then there is a problem with the defroster.
Defroster Problem
  • The error code itself means that the defroster mode has failed. This means that the defrost mechanism cannot reach 46 degrees Fahrenheit within two hours to defrost ice in the freezer properly. Unplug the refrigerator and move all the items that can spoil into a backup fridge or freezer.
Repair
  • Look in the back top of the freezer. Use a screwdriver to remove the ice maker machine that blocks the back defrost panel. Remove the two side screws and pull away the plastic cover guard. Check the wire. If it is unplugged, then secure it to see if that is the problem. If the plug is connected, then remove it to check for more problems. Look for any faulted wires on the defroster. If it appears that the wires are fine, you need to replace the defroster panel. Contact your local LG dealer for the specific part number


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It could be many things. My first guess would be the defrost. The coil that gets cold in your freezer builds ice on it and the only way to get the ice off is to run a heater near the coil long enough for the ice to melt. All freezers have something built in to defrost and domestic are typically just an electric heater on a timer. When your freezer stops working again, you may want to pull open the panel of your freezer and see if your coil (a heat exchanger that probably looks a lot like your car radiator) is covered in ice. If it is, it could be the timer or the actual heater that is bad.

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For no reason, my freezer went up to 56 degrees in a matter of 5-6 hours. I pulled the plug like the manual states because the temp was blinking. That solved the blinking. In 6 hours the temp dropped to 44...


You have either a sealed system problem or a control board problem. It's difficult to know which is which. You will need a qualified technician to determine what the problem is.
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hello. this is a common problem. The thermostat for a refrigerator/freezer is in the refrigerator part. Normally the refrigerator is kept at around 40 degrees. The compressor turns on as required to maintain this tempearture. The evaporator coils are concentrated in the freezer side, so that the freezer stays at around 0 degrees while the fridge side is held at 40.

If the ambient temp is around 25 degrees, the refrigerator compartment will get below the setpoint of 40 degrees, and gradually continue down towards 25 degrees. The compressor will not have to run at all to maintain this. In fact, the compressor is designed not to run, once the refrigerator compartment gets below the setpoint, for fear of freezing the contents of the fridge.

The lack of circulating refrigerant due to the non-running compressor means that the freezer compartment will gradually warm up to 25 degrees.

If the unit were just a freezer, it would work fine in the unheated garage. If it were just a refrigerator, it would not run in these conditions, and the contents would eventually freeze, but it is otherwise OK.

Regards, Joe PS kindly rate my answer. Thank you.

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