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is the difference between bi-wiring and bi-amping?
Bi-wiring is using the same power source (amplifier) but
connecting that power source to a woofer and a
midrange/tweeter on a
Bi-amping is using two separate power sources (amplifiers)
connecting one amplifier to a woofer and the other amplifier
midrange/tweeter on a speaker.
How do I bi-wire?
Your speaker must have two separate positive and negative
connections (one set for the woofer and one set for the
midrange/tweeter). Connect one wire between the positive
the amplifier/receiver the positive terminal on the speaker.
the other wire from the negative terminal on the
to the corresponding negative terminal on the speaker.
jumper straps connecting the two sets of speaker inputs.
process for the second set of terminals on the speaker,
them to the same positive and negative terminals on the
receiver/amplifier. Repeat the steps for each speaker you
Bi-Wire, connecting them to the appropriate terminals on
How do I bi-amp? Bi-amping is similar to bi-wiring, but involves
amplifiers: one for the woofer and one for the
Passive bi-amping involves a direct hookup between each
and the speaker terminals. True bi-amping involves hooking
preamp to an electronic crossover that replaces the passive
crossover network in the speaker. The active crossover then
to multiple power amplifiers.
Bi-wiring basically works wtih one amp. You need a crossover network and a signal doubler to use two amps (bi-amping). There are many diffent ways to bi-amp (horizontal, vertical,...) This link: - -http://www.soundstage.com/synergize/synergize031998.htm-- explains them all. Bi amping is usually not worth the extra price and complexity when used on smaller speakers.
The Dolby curcuit in the Paradigm must be Dolby 7.1 or it will simply not be able to send the extra channel signals to the speakers. In otherwords you will not get the full 7.1 sound from two speakers added to a 5.1 amp.
There is a chance that your wiring is producing this problem. Manufacturers don't always make equipment that is compatible with each other. The biggest problem's are "ground loops". Radio Shack has a non-electrical device that separates the common ground from all equipment. You basically connect it between your amp out's and in's - cables included. It is possible that other manufactures also make and sell this device too. It's main "Google" name would most likely be - "Ground Loop Isolators". If you are using the actually speaker outputs into your subwoofer amp input(s), check your polarity wiring again. Good luck with your system - it sounds like it'll rock when it's all setup correctly.
The more power the better as far as amplifiers go, underpowering speakers causes clipping and burns up voice coils.
Having a high power reserve means you have higher headroom for transients, with more power the amp will be able to handle transients better and will not be running at full output all the time in order to get desired volume levels, hence more headroom.
If you want to go with quality go with components, a seperate dedicated high quality amplifier such as a haffler, crest, etc., amps you find powering monitors in studios.
It all depends what you want.