Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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Replacing the rubber seal on the door - Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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The following link explains how to replace the door bellow on a Kenmore Elite front loader:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385210-replacing_door_bellow_kenmore_elite

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

NOTE: Review some of the testimonials as well. One user (DGBG) offers a quicker way of replacing the bellow if you're willing to give it a try.

Posted on Oct 06, 2009

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 41 Answers

SOURCE: Washing machine rubber door seal replacement

Go to www.Searspartsdirect.com You should be able to find an exploded view and parts list

Posted on Feb 29, 2008

zeusfaber
  • 247 Answers

SOURCE: rubber door seal mouldy

Wouldn't normallyexpect a few mould spots to leave that bad a smell, so likely you've got two distinct issues.

Starting with the water trapped in the seal: Open the door and very carefully slip your fingers into the seal where the water is gathering (to stop your hand getting trapped between the drum and the outer casing, put your other hand inside the drum and push it up out of the way - just be careful not to let it spring back too fast).

At the very lowest point,of the space inside the seal, either at the very front or the very back (so tucked into the corner between the floor of the seal and it's front or back wall), you'll find a little drainage slot. Once you've cleared the inevitable blockage from this slot, your seal problems should vanish.

If the foul smell is coming from inside the machine, the problem is likely to be grey sludge inside the works of the machine. This is usually caused by modern detergents not being quite as good at working at 30 degrees as they claim to be. The answer is to run a cycle every now and then with no laundry, detergent, or conditioner in the machine, on the longest, hottest programme the machine will support. This should be sufficient to dissolve the rotting sludge and pump it away down the drain.

A.

Posted on Apr 06, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Front Door Seal/Baffle Replacement

I need to replace a baffle from inside my Elite HE3T. Do you have directions? Only 1 came off but when I order the new one apparently it only comes in 3, so show I replace the other 2 as well? (if I can figure out how)

Of course the part did not come with any! And Sears customer service is of no help and the technical people have not responded to me.
Thanks,

Posted on Aug 27, 2008

futureloginn
  • 734 Answers

SOURCE: leaking door due to the wire ring that holds rubber seal

It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time

During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. 


Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. 



During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. 


Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. 


Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Posted on Dec 12, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: replacing a rubber door seal on washer machine

1. Remove door (2 screws).
2. remove top (2 screws at back, sharp slap to front to dislodge).
3. Remove 2 screws holding powder dispenser to inlet valve.
4. Remove 2 screws at front corners securing fascia.
5. Remove fascia and powder dispenser as a unit - note plastic locating pegs on underside and plastic clips locating bottom onto front panel. Take care not to drop one of the rubber seals from valve/powder dispenser joint. Do not disconnect the wiring, just lay the complete assembly on top of the machine.
6. At some point, you will need to release the retaining wire securing the seal to the front panel. This is a thin spring loaded wire. Look after it, you will need it again.
7. Remove two screws at front securing front panel.
8. Remove kick panel - this allows access to two more screws securing bottom of front panel - take these out as well.
9. unclip the wire connector to the door switch.
The front panel may now be lifted from its plastic retainers.
10. The second wire clip can now be removed. The clever clip will need to be released to allow refitting.
11. Thoroughly clean and disinfect the seating for the new seal - you don't want the same gunk growing into the new one straight away.
12. On the drum, you will notice a protruding moulding at about 5 o'clock. There is a matching flange on the seal to help you locate it accurately - start here and fit the seal.
13. Fit the wire retainer - you will need a good pair of long-nose pliers to retension the wire.
14. Reassemble the machine in the reverse order - take care not to mix up the screws! remember to fit the seal to the front panel before refitting the door. Do not release the spring from the wire, carefully stretch it into place.

Posted on Jan 03, 2010

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Not a hard task if you coat rims with liquid detergent before trying to install new seal.
Using thumb go slowly around rim working seal all the way back.
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Care is required so as not to puncture seal,
Main point is to ensure seal is fully seated before applying spring.
Having machine laid on its back makes the job so much easier.

This job took an hour and 30 minutes, the hour spent checking the internet first.
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