Question about Maytag Neptune MCE8000AY Electric Dryer
My Maytag Neptune MCG8000AW upper cabinet seemed to be getting hotter than usual when drying. Shortly after, the heater apparently didn't shut completely down after a load was finished, and I noticed the inside of the cabinet was still warm after an extended time (at least a day). Now the upper cabinet won't heat at all.
Today I ran diagnostics: the logic board tested "pass", the keypad tested OK, sub system check was all OK except the upper dryer heater temp would not go above 81. I unplugged the dryer for a period of time, no difference. Restored the factory default settings, no difference. The machine is not giving any error codes and nothing is showing up on the diagnostic code list. There are no problems with the blower or the water valve.
The 'thermal fuse' probably blew during the extended heating of the dryer. It will need to be replaced. You will have to open up the dryer and it's down by the motor. Here is a picture of the fuse:
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Posted on Oct 06, 2009
yes its the problem of thermostat in the unit its got short.
Safety thermostats are usually always found on the heating element housing or cage assembly. dryer thermostats are an single pole, double throw style and can usually be identified by a third wire terminal ( often smaller ) mounted towards the top of the thermostat housing .
Gas dryer with no heat: The parts that I have pointed out with the arrows are the parts that you will need to check with an ohm meter if the dryer is not heating. First check and see if you have 110 volts coming to the gas valve at this type of a connector. If you have voltage, then unplug the dryer and check the parts I have pointed to. Some dryers have 3 coils instead of the 2 shown here. If you do not have voltage coming to the burner, then you will need to check the timer contacts that feed the gas burner, hi limit thermostat, operating thermostats, the safety switch on the motor, and any other point that you can see on your wiring diagram picture that feeds voltage to the burner. The coils on the gas valve are very bad for working once or twice and then quitting. If you find a open circuit on one of the gas coils, replace them all = less problems later on. If the glow coil does not work ( get red ), check it with a ohm meter for continuity. The next thing to check if the glow coil does not come on would be the radiant sensor. Inspect the igniter for small burnt spot on dark gray or black part of igniter or check for 110 volts to igniter wire plug when dryer should be calling for heat. Sometimes the ( older style ) igniter is separate from the holder and the holder can no longer hold the igniter tight enough and the two parts burn/arc where they touch each other = new igniter and holder ( some manufactures have new kits to replace these older style parts ).
Does the igniter get red and stay red, or does it get red, you hear a click and it goes off, then a minute later its gets red again?....if so you possibly have a bad set of coil valves. If the igniter gets red and stays red constantly then its the flame switch that is bad and maybe welded closed.
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Posted on Oct 06, 2009
You have to determine if the heating element needs replacing, for that you have to check for 240V at the element connections when the dryer is running. You have to be carefull,If there IS 240V, replace the element. If not, then you will have to do continuity checks on every component in the heating circuit. First though, make sure that you have 240V at the outlet - it might just be the outlet or breaker.
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Posted on Oct 06, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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