Question about Amana 3.2 cu. ft. Top-Load Washer

2 Answers

Spin cycles have been gradually getting louder for the past several months. Assuming a barring is bad. Want to pull tub. Removed agitator and bolt out of the plastic spline, but can't get the spline off. What next?

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  • bkrukowski Oct 06, 2009

    Amana Super Capcity plus 3.3 cubic feet. Not sure if that makes a difference.



    I have the front panels off. Motor located to the front located on top of the water pump. Pulley from the pump looks to drive the tub via a belt. Turning the tub my hand, I can hear a grinding noise. I would assume normal would be little if any noise. Again why I thik it is barring, and if it is the tub barring, I would assume the tub needs to be removed. Hence the removal of the agitator.



    I have the agitator off. I fits on top of plastic spline looking piece, that looks to be attached to a drive shaft via a bolt and a rubber plug covering the bolt. I have this bolt removed, but the plastic spline won't come off the shaft. Does this thread on? Reverse thread? Or should it just pop off like the agitator did and is so how?



    Or I may be totally of with my diagnosis?



    Thanks







  • bkrukowski Oct 07, 2009

    I essentially got the same response back so asking another expert. Can attach a picture showing the "spline" I'm trying to remove?

  • bkrukowski Oct 07, 2009

    Plastic spline has bolt on top, which I removed. So I would think that it should come the top of the shaft it is bolted on to. Not sure how you would get to a snap ring, as you suggest, without a special tool as this at the bottom of the tub.



    Do you have a seperate e-mail address so I can send you a picture. Too large go send through this format according to the error message I got.



  • bkrukowski Oct 12, 2009

    Was able to get the the plastic spline (actually called drive bell) off prying underneath with pry bar. Got on-line and figured out the parts I figured I need to replace, drum seal kit and bearing. Bought parts the parts, $199. The next problem I ran into was removing the 1-1/2" lock nut under the drive bell at the bottom of the tub. In the close quarters, everything I tried, could not break the nut....reverse thread. I even put heat to it, but to no avail. Took the parts back, paid the restocking fee and bought a new washer.

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  • Amana Master
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Is the spline part of the transmission stem or does it look as if it would separate from the transmission. if so is there a snap ring or roll pin thru the shaft somewhere?

Posted on Oct 07, 2009

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  • Master
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Concerning loud spinning issue(worn drive assembly or coupler)

Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.

Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.

There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.

Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.

***(I would suggest to check the following while you are in the area for faults as well(((Clutch,motor,motor board,transmission))). inspect these areas thoroughly)



Now, concerning the removal of the agitator


The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly, which is removable as well. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction.

Various makes and models differ in how the agitator is removed. In some newer models, the agitator just lifts straight up and out. However, in most models you will have to preform a combination of the following steps. First remove the fabric softener dispenser, if any. It should either lift or screw off. Next remove the cap. It may lift off, screw off or failing that, it may need to be pried off.

Beneath the cap some agitators are secured in place by a bolt. Use a socket wrench with an extension to remove that bolt. Some Maytags may have a screw near to the bottom of the agitator post that must be removed. Now try to lift the agitator straight up, possibly with a little back and forth rocking motion. Use caution when pulling, the agitator may come loose suddenly and hit you in the face or send you flying backward.

If the agitator is particularly stubborn, you can loop some rope under one side of the agitator at the bottom and then up over a broom handle. Now loop it again under the other side of the agitator and back up to the broom. Brace one end of the broom handle against the top of the washer and lift up on the other end. Double check that you have removed anything that may be securing the agitator in place. Do not use too much force or you may damage the washer cabinet, agitator or injure yourself.

Posted on Oct 06, 2009

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Oct 06, 2009

    Some models may have a screw near to the bottom of the agitator post that must be
    removed. Now try to lift the agitator straight up, possibly with a
    little back and forth rocking motion. Use caution when pulling, the
    agitator may come loose suddenly and hit you in the face or send you
    flying backward.

    If the agitator is particularly stubborn, you
    can loop some rope under one side of the agitator at the bottom and
    then up over a broom handle. Now loop it again under the other side of
    the agitator and back up to the broom. Brace one end of the broom
    handle against the top of the washer and lift up on the other end.
    Double check that you have removed anything that may be securing the
    agitator in place. Do not use too much force or you may damage the
    washer cabinet, agitator or injure yourself.





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Hello,

Firstly i want to apoligize for the quesionable advice,some on here or elsewhere on the net fixed their washer and suddenly their are experts!!
Now Then as you know your washer is made by Amana/Speed Queen and has no agitator dogs(a quick search of parts breakdown will show anybody that) it also has no spin tube (aka basket drive),the brake pads which it does have would squeal only when washer stops spinning if they were bad just like squalling brakes on or vehicle the are quite till applied if bad,what the most likely cause of the noise is going to be the tub bearing,it is on the bottom of the outer tub. The inner and outer tub must be removed,it is advisable if replacing the tub bearing that you also replace the tub seal since it may not seal correctly once taken apart and leak badly.The hub taht connect inner tub to transmission must be removed so ya can remove the outer tub it requires a special wrench which is not to expensive but nothing else will work. IF ya want to go ahead and repair this the part numbers are;
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PROCESS TO REPLACE BEARING;
unplug power
remove front panels
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remove agitator
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use that spanner wrench and a hammer on nut on hub and remove nut in counterclockwise direction by hitting wrench w/hammer
lift off hub
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remove all springs from outer tub by locking on vise grips and pull springs off
remove bolts holding outer tub to the to tub support
pull off outer tub and set down so bottom is facing up
remove old bearing and install new old
reassamble in reverse order

this is a link for parts breakdown http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Amana-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-NAV2330AWW/1268/0153200?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=NAV2330AWW

to order parts order from sears or for a cheaper price by a little rearsch from
apdepot.com
assuredparts.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Good luck, if you have any question reply and ask away.
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