Question about Amana 3.2 cu. ft. Top-Load Washer
Is the spline part of the transmission stem or does it look as if it would separate from the transmission. if so is there a snap ring or roll pin thru the shaft somewhere?
Posted on Oct 07, 2009
Concerning loud spinning issue(worn drive assembly or coupler)
Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.
Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.
There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.
Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.
***(I would suggest to check the following while you are in the area for faults as well(((Clutch,motor,motor board,transmission))). inspect these areas thoroughly)
Now, concerning the removal of the agitator
The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly, which is removable as well. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction.
Various makes and models differ in how the agitator is removed. In some newer models, the agitator just lifts straight up and out. However, in most models you will have to preform a combination of the following steps. First remove the fabric softener dispenser, if any. It should either lift or screw off. Next remove the cap. It may lift off, screw off or failing that, it may need to be pried off.
Beneath the cap some agitators are secured in place by a bolt. Use a socket wrench with an extension to remove that bolt. Some Maytags may have a screw near to the bottom of the agitator post that must be removed. Now try to lift the agitator straight up, possibly with a little back and forth rocking motion. Use caution when pulling, the agitator may come loose suddenly and hit you in the face or send you flying backward.
If the agitator is particularly stubborn, you can loop some rope under one side of the agitator at the bottom and then up over a broom handle. Now loop it again under the other side of the agitator and back up to the broom. Brace one end of the broom handle against the top of the washer and lift up on the other end. Double check that you have removed anything that may be securing the agitator in place. Do not use too much force or you may damage the washer cabinet, agitator or injure yourself.
Posted on Oct 06, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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