Question about Amana 3.2 cu. ft. Top-Load Washer

2 Answers

Spin cycles have been gradually getting louder for the past several months. Assuming a barring is bad. Want to pull tub. Removed agitator and bolt out of the plastic spline, but can't get the spline off. What next?

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  • bkrukowski Oct 06, 2009

    Amana Super Capcity plus 3.3 cubic feet. Not sure if that makes a difference.



    I have the front panels off. Motor located to the front located on top of the water pump. Pulley from the pump looks to drive the tub via a belt. Turning the tub my hand, I can hear a grinding noise. I would assume normal would be little if any noise. Again why I thik it is barring, and if it is the tub barring, I would assume the tub needs to be removed. Hence the removal of the agitator.



    I have the agitator off. I fits on top of plastic spline looking piece, that looks to be attached to a drive shaft via a bolt and a rubber plug covering the bolt. I have this bolt removed, but the plastic spline won't come off the shaft. Does this thread on? Reverse thread? Or should it just pop off like the agitator did and is so how?



    Or I may be totally of with my diagnosis?



    Thanks







  • bkrukowski Oct 07, 2009

    I essentially got the same response back so asking another expert. Can attach a picture showing the "spline" I'm trying to remove?

  • bkrukowski Oct 07, 2009

    Plastic spline has bolt on top, which I removed. So I would think that it should come the top of the shaft it is bolted on to. Not sure how you would get to a snap ring, as you suggest, without a special tool as this at the bottom of the tub.



    Do you have a seperate e-mail address so I can send you a picture. Too large go send through this format according to the error message I got.



  • bkrukowski Oct 12, 2009

    Was able to get the the plastic spline (actually called drive bell) off prying underneath with pry bar. Got on-line and figured out the parts I figured I need to replace, drum seal kit and bearing. Bought parts the parts, $199. The next problem I ran into was removing the 1-1/2" lock nut under the drive bell at the bottom of the tub. In the close quarters, everything I tried, could not break the nut....reverse thread. I even put heat to it, but to no avail. Took the parts back, paid the restocking fee and bought a new washer.

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  • Amana Master
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Is the spline part of the transmission stem or does it look as if it would separate from the transmission. if so is there a snap ring or roll pin thru the shaft somewhere?

Posted on Oct 07, 2009

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  • Master
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Concerning loud spinning issue(worn drive assembly or coupler)

Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.

Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.

There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.

Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.

***(I would suggest to check the following while you are in the area for faults as well(((Clutch,motor,motor board,transmission))). inspect these areas thoroughly)



Now, concerning the removal of the agitator


The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly, which is removable as well. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction.

Various makes and models differ in how the agitator is removed. In some newer models, the agitator just lifts straight up and out. However, in most models you will have to preform a combination of the following steps. First remove the fabric softener dispenser, if any. It should either lift or screw off. Next remove the cap. It may lift off, screw off or failing that, it may need to be pried off.

Beneath the cap some agitators are secured in place by a bolt. Use a socket wrench with an extension to remove that bolt. Some Maytags may have a screw near to the bottom of the agitator post that must be removed. Now try to lift the agitator straight up, possibly with a little back and forth rocking motion. Use caution when pulling, the agitator may come loose suddenly and hit you in the face or send you flying backward.

If the agitator is particularly stubborn, you can loop some rope under one side of the agitator at the bottom and then up over a broom handle. Now loop it again under the other side of the agitator and back up to the broom. Brace one end of the broom handle against the top of the washer and lift up on the other end. Double check that you have removed anything that may be securing the agitator in place. Do not use too much force or you may damage the washer cabinet, agitator or injure yourself.

Posted on Oct 06, 2009

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Oct 06, 2009

    Some models may have a screw near to the bottom of the agitator post that must be
    removed. Now try to lift the agitator straight up, possibly with a
    little back and forth rocking motion. Use caution when pulling, the
    agitator may come loose suddenly and hit you in the face or send you
    flying backward.

    If the agitator is particularly stubborn, you
    can loop some rope under one side of the agitator at the bottom and
    then up over a broom handle. Now loop it again under the other side of
    the agitator and back up to the broom. Brace one end of the broom
    handle against the top of the washer and lift up on the other end.
    Double check that you have removed anything that may be securing the
    agitator in place. Do not use too much force or you may damage the
    washer cabinet, agitator or injure yourself.





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1 Answer

Agitator quit working during wash cycle. If I move timer to rinse and fill with water then move timer to spin the agitator works fine and drains water from the tub


depends on what u mean by agitator works fine on spin? it doesnt do anything on spin cycle cause its not suppose to? if ur saying ur not getting any wash agitation? then I suspect ur cam dogs inside agitator are bad? remove the 7/16 bolt nut and remove top of agitator and u will see the cam dogs underneath it. there fairly cheap like 5-10 bucks for a set, if u can push the agitator back and forth when its all together in tub, and its catching the teeth and not easy to move back in forth, their not bad, but if u have no resistance then they are bad

Feb 19, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washer is a Samsung WWF337AAW-XAC. Just prior to the spin cycle we hear a rattling or grating noise and then it rattles throughout the spin cycle. It will sometimes rattle at the end of the rinse cycle but...


hi Rick.
Reasons a washer will make noise during spin mode:
1. Main tub bearing faulty
2. Main drive pulley
3. Motor coupling worn
4. Bad clutch
5. Worn out drive belt
6. Clogged or damaged drain pump
7. Transmission is worn out
8. Shock absorber (front loader washers)
9. Springs or dampening straps (top load washers)
10. Agitator directional cogs aka "agitator dogs" (top load washers
When the washer spins, it rides on a bearing that allows the tub to move freely with zero resistance. If this bearing is worn out, a loud noise will be heard when the washer spins. A good way to tell if your washer problem is the main tub bearing will be that the washer noise will get worse or louder as time goes on. This means the bearing is becoming more worn out and close to complete failure. The bearing in your washing machine is a circular metal object that has many small little metal balls inside. These small metal balls inside the bearing sit in a track and move when the washer is spinning. If the tub bearing begins to wear out, usually the small metal balls inside can fall out one by one causing the noise you hear. (If your washing machine is a front load washer, open the door and turn the drum by hand. If you hear a rubbing sound or the drum spins uneven, then the main tub bearing is most likely bad and needs replaced.)
Washing machine tub bearing

Washer has noise during spin cycle

The bearing may also be without lubrication. If the sound you hear is more of a squeaking noise than a grinding noise, it may mean the bearing needs to be lubricated with a mechanical grease. If the sound is more of a grinding noise, then this usually means the bearing is falling apart and will need to be replaced ASAP. If you suspect your washers main tub bearing is worn out, the repair process is one of the most difficult to perform yourself. A worn bearing can also damage the tub of the washer. This means the tub (inner or outer) may need to be replaced also.
A washer making a loud noise during spin cycle can also be caused by a faulty drive pulley. The pulley is what the belt (if applicable to your washer) rides on to spin your washers tub. The pulley can be made of plastic or metal. It could be simply worn out or just loose. To find out if the drive pulley is causing the noise, you will need to take the washer apart and inspect the pulley for signs of damage.
WASHER MOTOR PULLEY
The motor coupling could also be the cause of the loud noise. The motor coupling in your washer connects the washers transmission to the motor. It is made of plastic and built to break if the washer gets overloaded. This is so the motor and the transmission do not become damaged. The motor coupling is an easier repair and can be done by most people.




Washer Washing Machine Motor Drive Coupling Coupler
The clutch in a washing machine connects the inner wash tub to the transmission. The clutch lets the washer get to the proper spin RPM in a gradual way. If the clutch is worn it can make noise when the washer is spinning. A bad clutch needs to be removed and replaced to stop the noise.
Washing Machine Clutch
The belt in your washer can become worn and cause noise while spinning. If worn out, replace the belt. Replacing the drive belt on a washing machine is an easy task and can be ordered online for less.
Washing machine belt
The drain pump in your washer that drains the water out could be clogged or damaged. While in spin mode, your washer may drain out the water by using the drain pump. If the loud noise only happens at certain intervals during the spin cycle, it may be the drain pump. Usually this can be fixed by simply removing the drain pump and removing any debris that may be clogging it up causing the noise.
Drain Pump for Washing Machine




The next part of your washer that can be causing a loud noise is the transmission. If the transmission is bad, usually the cost to fix this outweighs the cost of a new washer.
If you have a front loading washing machine, they all have shock absorbers. The shock absorbers are used to center the tub movement while in the spin cycle. These shock absorbers are connected from the washer frame to the outer tub. If the shock absorbers in your front loader become weak the washer will make a loud banging sound during the spinning cycle.
Shock Absorber for washing machine
Top load washers usually have springs or dampening straps holding the tub centered. If a spring or strap falls off or becomes weak, a loud noise will be heard in spin mode. Simply replace the strap, spring, or springs to remedy this issue.
Washing machine suspension springs
Agitator directional cogs are used to operate the upper part of dual action agitators (Top load washers). They engage the cogs on the inner area of the agitator as it turns in one direction. They release when the agitator reverses its direction. This lets the top part of the agitator to ratchet in only one direction. The bottom part will agitate in both directions. The cogs are made of plastic and wear out with regular use. They will start slipping and make a grinding noise. Another way to be sure that this part is bad is if you notice the top portion of the agitator does not move in a smooth motion. Removing the top half of the agitator to see if the cogs are worn out.

Dec 08, 2017 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Whirlpool stylemaster 4217141 REV A Agitator/spin cycle broken upper agitator spins by hand but tub won't spin


open the lid and get a model #, sound like all you need is agit dogs # 80040. then remove top of the agitator, could be a softener dispenser. under that you will find a plastic cap, pull up with needle nose pliers. under that you will find a 7/16 or 1/2 bolt, remove the bolt and the agitator can be lifted off. the agitator can now be split into to pieces, turn the top half over and the assy with the agit dgs will fall out. simply replace and reassemble and DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN BOLT. just snug it up. should be fine.

Jan 02, 2012 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

My Amana NAV2330AWW (S/N12279742EP) has been in service for six years. It has begun making a loud squealing, friction-like noise at the spin cycle. I removed the agitator assembly after being told it...


Hello,

Firstly i want to apoligize for the quesionable advice,some on here or elsewhere on the net fixed their washer and suddenly their are experts!!
Now Then as you know your washer is made by Amana/Speed Queen and has no agitator dogs(a quick search of parts breakdown will show anybody that) it also has no spin tube (aka basket drive),the brake pads which it does have would squeal only when washer stops spinning if they were bad just like squalling brakes on or vehicle the are quite till applied if bad,what the most likely cause of the noise is going to be the tub bearing,it is on the bottom of the outer tub. The inner and outer tub must be removed,it is advisable if replacing the tub bearing that you also replace the tub seal since it may not seal correctly once taken apart and leak badly.The hub taht connect inner tub to transmission must be removed so ya can remove the outer tub it requires a special wrench which is not to expensive but nothing else will work. IF ya want to go ahead and repair this the part numbers are;
TUB BEARING 40004201P
TUB SEAL 35-5655-1
SPANNER WRENCH 306P4

PROCESS TO REPLACE BEARING;
unplug power
remove front panels
remove screws holding top to cabinet
remove plastic tub cover by down slightly and lift tabs
remove agitator
remove bolts from hub under agitator and remove inner tub
use that spanner wrench and a hammer on nut on hub and remove nut in counterclockwise direction by hitting wrench w/hammer
lift off hub
remove rubber tub seal
remove all springs from outer tub by locking on vise grips and pull springs off
remove bolts holding outer tub to the to tub support
pull off outer tub and set down so bottom is facing up
remove old bearing and install new old
reassamble in reverse order

this is a link for parts breakdown http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Amana-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-NAV2330AWW/1268/0153200?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=NAV2330AWW

to order parts order from sears or for a cheaper price by a little rearsch from
apdepot.com
assuredparts.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Good luck, if you have any question reply and ask away.
Gene

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1 Answer

Admiral Washer makes loud steady noise during spin cycle but washes clothes & completes cycle. Possible bearing problem?


If a front loader type, try lifting up on the drum. If it clunks and seems to move somewhat easily, it is probably the front bearing on drum rear support shaft--a major tear-down to replace. If a top loader, try tipping the basket (that spins) in several directions--if it makes clunking sounds, try removing the agitator and check the tub mounting bolts at the bottom center for tightness. If ok, tip the tub again and watch for movement. It may have a bad bearing below the tub at the center area. Remove the tub bolts and pull the tub out revealing the drive hub underneath. Don't know if you would have to drop the transmission to repair what you find. Good luck!

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1 Answer

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does the unit agitate?
is it does and it will not spin then the transmission is bad.
if the unit does not spin or agitate then check the belt.all assuming that the motor is running.

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The bearings are bad. My sears kenmore did the same thing. Do you have hard water, that would be one cause. Or maybe it's still under warrenty because it is not a cheap fix.

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I have had the same problem and found that the teeth on the under side of the agitator had been worn down to nothing... I assume this is from years of over loading (not from me) and so the agitator could not spin any more... i would tighten the bolt that holds th agitator on and it would come loose after a few loads. So my solution was to get a little bit longer bolt and newer plastic washer and tighten it as tight as i could and it seemed to work. Versus buying a new agitator base that would cost about $20-$30 and would have to wait for the part to be ordered. hope this helps

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