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No compression removed head -cleaned valves and checked pistons=poured liquid on top of pistons=did not leak past=cleaned valve seats=replaced head gasket=still no compression on any cylinder=could it be a timing problem between the cam and crank=thanks

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  • Donnie Wilson
    Donnie Wilson May 11, 2010

    yes.what engine do you have so I can tell you what to do?

  • Mike Turner
    Mike Turner Dec 23, 2013

    Els725 22hp model40h777



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Yes - I suspect your cam is 90 degrees out of time. This will have all the valve events happening at BDC rather than TDC - which equals zilch on the compression guage.

If the cam and crank are not marked, proceed from first principals - pick a cylinder. Position the piston at TDC on that cylinder. Rotate the cam until BOTH valves are off their seats. This is the overlap at the end of the exhaust stroke. The engine is now timed well enough to run - it cannot be more than 1 tooth out in either direction.

You will need to ensure that the ignition is timed also.

Posted on Oct 06, 2009


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I changed the cylinder head gasket and lapped the valves torqued the head bolts to spec and still have the same problem low compression in # 4 cylinder on a 1986 Chevy chevette gas engine thanks

Did u machine the head?, replace the valve seals?, oil & coolant mixing? Spark plugs burning oil or burning coolant? Oil smell burnt? Possible rings,

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The valves allow air and gasoline to enter the combustion chamber, to be ignited by the spark plug, and to allow the burned gases to be exhausted from the chamber.

When the valves do not work, a mechanic needs to remove parts of the engine, to see what's wrong, and to make repairs.
It could cost you $500 to $1000 US dollars.

Maybe, time to "junk" the TEN-YEAR-OLD vehicle, and buy another one ???

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I have no compression in cylinder 1 it has only 15 pd of pressure but it doesn't smoke

Do a cylinder leak down test

Still nothing ,the valves are worn,head comes off

Compression does not tell you if a valve seals properly,
only how much pressure your building at cranking speed

Jul 23, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Piston rings set

when the head was off did you remove all the valves and re seat them with lapping tool and paste ? are the valve clearances correct ? with the head fitted you should then use a pressure tester to see if the valves at tdc on each cylinder have no leaks , which you can see through the inlets and exhaust ports ! its known as a pressure drop tester

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Misfire cylinder 4 dodge 1500 5.7L hemi

Check compression. If its nill or low, pull a plug and look for raw fuel. Try to look at the top of the piston for impact marks. The valve guide comes loose and the valve will hit the piston causing valve damage. Most instances won't damage the piston to a point of necessitating replacement, but will require removal of the head for a valve job or replacement of the head due to valve damage or chipping of the cylinder head at the valve seat. A reman head isn't much more than the machine shop will charge for a valve job. 6 hour job plus gaskets. Don't let anyone tell you it needs an engine without substantial proof.

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1 Answer

Model 331877 briggs fuel pump leaks oil out vent

I just got done repairing the very same engine with the same syptoms that you mentioned. I had considerable oil coming out of the fuel pump breather hole (copper colored mesh). The source of the problem: a blown head gasket. This will cause the piston, in the compression cycle, to pressurize the crankcase through the head gasket leak into the valve lifter chamber and push oil out the vacuum tube (bottom hose) leading to the fuel filter . To fix, you will need to first disassemble the cylinder head from the engine. To do that you first need to disconnect the three hoses to the fuel pump. Remove the cover to the air filter, remove the air filter and the screw in the bottom of the filter housing. Remove the four bolts attaching the plastic flywheel cover and remove the cover., remove the cylinder head (8 bolts)and check the head gasket to confirm it is blown (you will probably see some dark brown or black discoloration of the head gasket between the cylinder and valve lifter chamber. Carefully remove all old head gasket material from the block and head surfaces and clean the head bolts. If either your cylinder head or block surface looks ugly, you may need to get them resurfaced (flatness tolerance is very small ) Buy a valve gasket set (contains the head gasket and other needed parts)
Remove the valve rocker arm cover (4 bolts) from the head. Mark the exhaust and intake lifter rods (they are different) Clean the combustion chamber. If your engine has many hours on it, you will want to remove the valves and check the valve rims and seats for wear or pitting. You may want to hand lap the valves to insure they are seating perfectly.
I coated my head bolts with an anti-sieze valve lube compound. The B&S service manual calls for this. Reassemble head and torque head bolts to 220 in.-lbs. (4 stages) Do very accurately. Compress valve springs, install push rods and set clearances between rocker arm and end of valve stem. Turn flywheel to move piston so that both valves are closed before setting clearances. install a new fuel pump on the plastic flywheel housing. I removed the breather from the top of the engine (two small screws) and checked the reed and oil drain hole, and resealed the breather cover (you will need to pull the flywheel to get to one of the breather screws. I used a gray high-temp rtv liquid gasket compound to reseal the rocker arm cover and breather body. Reassemble all parts and screws and use small torques as listed in Briggs Service manual. I put in a new spark plug, changed the oil and filter, and breather tube, and o-ring at the bottom of my oil filler tube. That should do it

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The most common cause of your problem would be a sticking or burnt valve the only way to know for sure is to remove the head and check then it will need a valve grind and head machined before replacing you may find it cheaper to hunt around for a good secondhand engine to have fitted in your car.
The head of the piston in each cylinder is designed to compress fuel so that it is combustible (explosive/flamable) when it is ignited by the spark plug. The compression is maintained by O-rings on the piston which do not allow fuel to escape past it. In your case, either an O-ring is damaged or the piston itself isn't working properly and it is not compressing the fuel as it should.
Hope this helps, best regards :)

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remove the exhaust and the head cover with the valves, no need to remove piston yet.

check the seals and the piston ring for any damages and replace parts if needed. check your exhaust ports for any leaks and replace seals as well.

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I have changed a few cylinder heads under warranty for this type of problem. The exhaust valve guides wear, this causes the exhaust valve to seat badly, giving low compression. if one cylinder compresion reading is more than about 50 psi below the others, then this warrants head removal. It is quite a job, due to the fact that the camshft id chain driven. If you are up for it then once the head is removed, poor liquid into the exhaust ports and see if it leaks out through any of the exhaust valves.

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