I am looking for original part numbers for EV Speakers

If not the cable suspect the coil in the speaker cut. Try if the speaker pin mearuring low resistance. If not the speaker failed. Try to open the dust cap. And find out the disconected coil

I just replaced diaphragms in the tweeters in a pair of EV Sentry 200 speakers. The tweeters had 4 bolts holding them together. One of them was stuck. It's just a matter of gently but firmly twisting it back and forth until it starts coming apart. Make sure you take it apart evenly or it will bind.

That link doesn't work or it leads to a convoluted place where have to know more to find it.

http://www.retrevo.com/support/Electrovoice-TG7-Amps-manual/id/22385bh026/t/2/

It sounds like their service is on par with the website presentation. They couldn't even define it for you?

I'll take a feeble swing at it. The manual shows it has Event Logs. I'd start there and see what else is indicated. Eventually an understandable decode might appear.

Generally speaking, an amp attempts to protect itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on; or it may turn on but produce no audio to the speakers.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'nekkid'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.

166.99 from major online distributors

it may be an interanl crossover problem, you will have to open the cabinet to check and see if it looks like the coils (on crossovers) have gotten hot, (therey will be discolorationg on the coils)..you can bypass the crossover and power up the speakers (at low power/volume level) to test weather this is the problem or not, but it sure sounds like it. The cross over networks cost about 40 dollars the last time I checked

Assuming you live in the US:
Fill out this form and put it in the package with the microphone: http://www.electrovoice.com/sitefiles/downloads/Repair_Info_Form.pdf
Send to:

EV Microphones Service Facility
8601 Cornhusker Hwy
Lincoln, NE 68507, US Tel: (800) 553-5992
Fax: (402) 467-3279
[email protected]

Either the 15" speaker is dead, or the passive crossover inside the unit. The simplest way to identify your problem is to remover the speaker that isn't working from the enclosure, and exchange it with the speaker that is working. If there's no sound still, it's the speaker itself that is the problem. If it works in the other cabinet, then put the "working" speaker in the cabinet you took the "bad" speaker out of, and if it doesn't work, then there's a problem with the crossover in the first cabinet. I believe you can buy a replacement crossover from EV. If it's your speaker, do a google search for "speaker re-coning" in your area - it's cheaper to re-cone the speaker than buy a new one.

Your best bet would be to contact EV. Search for either EV or Telex. Telex will be easier to find and contact the repair department. Ask for the part availability and cost. They are very helpful there. Please let them know the model number as well.

Dan

Q10&Q10B IRF6215 Q11 IRF3315