Question about GE GTS22KBM Top Freezer Refrigerator
Freezer/refrig not cooling properly. all coils clean
If you (or someone you know) is competent at soldering, you may be able to fix this without a pro (nor replacement part).
At the rear of the fridge is a metal panel at top left behind which is the motherboard. If the problem is intermittent - e.g., slamming the door yields a loud 'click' and you hear the compressor start, chances are great that the problem is a bad solder joint on the relay that switches between defrost and compressor modes. (It seems to default to defrost mode.)
Unplug the fridge!
Remove the metal panel. (1/4" hex wrench or socket set req'd.)
Gently and carefully (wiggle and) remove all molex connectors from the circuit board. (There'll be 5 or more, possibly depending upon how many extra features your fridge model has.)
Use a suitable tool - needle nose pliers or strong tweezers - to squeeze the plastic stand-offs with which the board is mounted to the fridge.
Remove the board from the fridge. (Note: it may be easier to remove the connectors at the right of the board AFTER the board is lifted off the stand-offs.)
Look at the solder-side of the board.
You'll almost certainly see charring around a particular solder joint that belongs to the large, sort of T-shaped relay (black box) on the board.
Clean up the carbon with alcohol.
Scrape away some of the (green) coating on the copper trace around the pin that comes throught the board from the relay. (This will entail removing some of the acrylic clear coat with which the board has been sealed.)
Resolder the joint.
Clean up any flux residue.
Reinstall the board - right-hand connectors first, if necessary (i.e., before mounting the board on the stand-offs).
Replace the metal panel.
Plug the fridge in.
Listen to that relaxing buzz of relief...(and $100-$200 savings).
CAUTIONS: 1) Make sure you NOTE and/or remember which connector goes where on the board BEFORE you remove it.
Posted on Jan 08, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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