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Missing nut and sleeve for sprocket cover for model 111174

Missing nut and sleeve for sprocket cover

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Duplicate question... duplicate answer.
You provided no model number. It is probably here:
Remington.com
http://www.desaparts.com/remington-chainsaw.html
If not there is a home button at the bottom of the page that provides a 1-800-number. GL
Lou

Posted on Oct 06, 2009

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How to install the timing chain


2.2L & 2.3L Engines
Except S2000 with 2.2L Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove the cylinder head (valve) and upper timing belt covers.
  3. Turn the engine to align the timing marks and set cylinder No. 1 to Top Dead Center (TDC). The white mark on the crankshaft sprocket should align with the pointer on the timing belt cover. The words UP embossed on the camshaft sprocket should be aligned in the upward position. The marks on the edge of the sprocket should be aligned with the cylinder head or the back cover upper edge. Once in this position, the engine must NOT be turned or disturbed.
  4. Remove all necessary components for access to the lower timing belt cover, then remove the cover.
  5. There are two belts in this system; the one running to the camshaft sprocket is the timing belt. The other, shorter one drives the balance shaft and is referred to as the balancer shaft belt or timing balancer belt. Lock the timing belt adjuster in position, by installing one of the lower timing belt cover bolts to the adjuster arm.
  6. Loosen the timing belt and balancer shafts tensioner adjuster nut, do not loosen the nut more than one turn. Push the tensioner for the balancer belt away from the belt to relieve the tension. Hold the tensioner and tighten the adjusting nut to hold the tensioner in place.
  7. Carefully remove the balancer belt. Do not crimp or bend the belt; protect it from contact with oil or coolant.
  8. Remove the balancer belt sprocket from the crankshaft.
  9. Loosen the lockbolt installed to the timing belt adjuster and loosen the adjusting nut. Push the timing belt adjuster to remove the tension on the timing belt, then tighten the adjuster nut.
  10. Remove the timing belt by sliding it off the sprockets. Do not crimp or bend the belt; protect it from contact with oil or coolant.
  11. If defective, remove the belt tensioners by performing the following:
    1. Remove the springs from the balancer belt and the timing belt tensioners.
    2. Remove the adjusting nut from the belt tensioners.
    3. Remove the bolt from the balancer belt adjuster lever, and then remove the lever and the tensioner pulley.
    4. Remove the lockbolt from the timing belt tensioner lever, then remove the tensioner pulley and lever from the engine.
  12. This is an excellent time to check or replace the water pump. Even if the timing belt is only being replaced as part of a good maintenance schedule, consider replacing the pump at the same time.
  13. To install:
    1. If the water pump is to be replaced, install a new O-ring and make certain it is properly seated. Install the water pump and tighten the mounting bolts to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
    2. If the tensioners were removed, perform the following procedures:
      1. Install the timing belt tensioner lever and the tensioner pulley.
      2. Install the balancer belt pulley and adjuster lever.
      3. Install the adjusting nut and the bolt to the balancer belt adjuster lever.
      4. Install the springs to the tensioners.
      5. Install the lockbolt to the timing belt tensioner, then move it its full deflection and tighten the lockbolt.
      6. Move the balancer it's full deflection and tighten the adjusting nut to hold its position.
    3. The pointer on the crankshaft sprocket should be aligned with the pointer on the oil pump; the camshaft sprocket must be aligned so that the wordUP is at the top of the sprocket and the marks on the edge of the sprocket are aligned with the surfaces of the head or the back cover upper edge.
    4. Install the timing belt on the sprockets in the following sequence: crankshaft sprocket, tensioner sprocket, water pump sprocket and camshaft sprocket.
    5. Check the timing marks to be sure that they did not move.
    6. Loosen, then retighten the timing belt adjusting nut; this will apply the proper amount of tension to the timing belt.
    7. Install the timing balancer belt drive sprocket and the lower timing belt cover.
    8. Install the crankshaft pulley and bolt, tighten the bolt to 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm). Rotate the crankshaft sprocket 5-6 turns to position the timing belt on the sprockets.
    9. Set the No. 1 cylinder to TDC and loosen the timing belt adjusting nut one turn. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise until the cam sprocket has moved 3 teeth; this creates tension on the timing belt.
    10. Tighten the timing belt adjusting nut.
    11. Set the crankshaft sprocket and the camshaft sprocket to TDC. If the sprockets do not align, remove the belt to realign the marks, then install the belt.
    12. Remove the crankshaft pulley and the lower cover.
    13. With the timing marks aligned, lock the timing belt adjuster in place with one of the lower cover mounting bolts.
    14. Loosen the adjusting nut and ensure the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely.
    15. Align the rear timing balancer sprocket using a 6 x 100mm bolt or rod. Mark the bolt or rod at a point 2.9 in. (74mm) from the end. Remove the bolt from the maintenance hole on the side of the block; insert the bolt/rod into the hole and align the 2.9 in. (74mm) mark with the face of the hole. This will hold the shaft in place during installation.
    16. Align the groove on the front balancer shaft sprocket with the pointer on the oil pump.
    17. Install the balancer belt. Once the belts are in place, be sure that all the engine alignment marks are still correct. If not, remove the belts, realign the engine and reinstall the belts. Once the belts are properly installed, slowly loosen the adjusting nut, allowing the tensioner to move against the belt. Remove the bolt from the maintenance hole and reinstall the bolt and washer.
    18. Install the crankshaft pulley, then turn the crankshaft sprocket 1 turn counterclockwise and tighten the timing belt adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
    19. Remove the crankshaft pulley and the bolt locking the timing belt adjuster in place.
    20. Install the lower and upper timing belt covers, and all applicable components. When installing the crankshaft pulley, coat the threads and seating face of the pulley bolt with engine oil, then install and tighten the bolt to 181 ft. lbs. (250 Nm).
    21. Install the cylinder head cover gasket cover to the groove of the cylinder head cover. Before installing the gasket thoroughly clean the seal and the groove. Seat the recesses for the camshaft first, then work it into the groove around the outside edges. Be sure the gasket is seated securely in the corners of the recesses.
    22. Apply liquid gasket to the four corners of the recesses of the cylinder head cover gasket. Do not install the parts if 5 minutes or more have elapsed since applying liquid gasket. After assembly, wait at least 20 minutes before filling the engine with oil.
    23. Install the cylinder head (valve) cover and all other applicable components.
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Jul 02, 2014 | 2004 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Kawasaki torque specs


Axle nut 145 Nm
rear sprocket nuts B and C models 74 Nm
rear sprocket but E and F models 59Nm
front sprocket nut 125 Nm
front caliper mounting bolts 34Nm
Hope this helps - if your wrench isn't in Nm you can get a conversion online.

Jun 23, 2014 | 2000 kawasaki ZX-9 R Ninja

1 Answer

How do i remove the front sprocket on my 91 softail custom?


I assume you're talking about the front belt drive sprocket. First, disconnect the negative side of the battery. If you haven't already done so, you must drain the primary and remove the outer primary cover. Then you must take the engine compensator nut off and the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster. Remove the circlip and pull the clutch adjuster plate out of the center of the clutch. The mainshaft nut in the hole in the center of the clutch. The nut has LEFT-HANDED THREADS on it. Remove the engine compensator sprocket, primary chain, and clutch assembly all together. Then remove the small bolt that holds the jackshaft in and remove it and the coupling. Remove the starter. Then, take the bolts out and remove the inner primary cover. Now, you can see the front belt drive sprocket. You must take the large nut off the sprocket. It too has LEFT-HANDED THREADS. You need a special deep socket and a sprocket locking tool to get the sprocket off and retorque the nut when you put it back on. This is a major job requiring a fair amount of disassembly of the bike. If you're going to change the belt, the rear wheel and swingarm must come out as well. I would high recommend that you purchase a service manual to help with this project.

Good Luck
Steve

Jun 01, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard...

1 Answer

How to install the guide bar on a chain saw


Most saws are preety standard, pull the hand guard fully back to the top handle to ensure the brake is off, take away the cover nut/nuts, wind the chain adjuster fully back, now remove the side cover, loop the chain over the nose of the bar, and then loop it over the sprocket and off the saw, the bar will now lift away, to refit, place the bar back onto the bar bolts, push it fully back toward the sprocket, loop the chain over the sprocket and lay it around the bar ( the cutters on the top of the bar should be facing away from the saw ) if the adjuster is in the crankcase make sure it locates into the hole in the bar, now refit the side cover, if the adjuster pawl is in the side cover make sure it locates into the bar hole, refit the bar nut/nuts finger tight, adjust the chain so as it touches snuggly all around the bar, with a gloved hand pull the chain around the bar to make sure it is located into the sprocket correctly, re adjust if required, now fully tighten the bar nut/nuts.

Apr 16, 2011 | Ryobi 10" Chain Saw Repl Chain Model P540a

1 Answer

Removal motorsprocket


I'm going to assume that you are talking about how to remove the engine sprocket from the sprocket shaft in the primary cover.

First, disconnect the battery and drain the primary. Look underneath the primary and loosen the locknut for the primary chain adjuster and loosen the primary chain by turning the screw outwards a few turns.

Then take the derby cover off the primary and remove the spring and locknut for the clutch adjustment. Remove the screws from around the primary and break it loose from the engine. Turn the clutch adjustment screw clockwise while removing the primary cover. Lay the primary cover aside.

Now, there is a plate in the center of the clutch assembly held in with a circlip. Remove the circlip. Now you'll need either an air wrench or a locking bar to lock the primary to prevent it from turning so you can get the clutch hub nut and the engine sprocket nut off. The engine nut has right hand threads and comes off normally. The clutch hub nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS and you must turn it in reverse. Once you get the two nuts off, you can usually grab the engine sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift those two units and the chain off at once. Sometimes you may need a puller to get the engine sprocket off but usually it just comes right off.

Installation is the reverse with the engine nut being torques to 150 foot pounds and the clutch hub nut torqued to 60 foot pounds left handed.

Good Luck
Steve

Mar 03, 2011 | 2000 Harley Davidson XL Sportster 883

1 Answer

How do I change chain on a 14" mc culloch saw


As you do not say what model we are talking about, i will go through the standard procedure.
If it has a chain brake make sure this is de activated by pulling the hand guard fully back to the top handle, remove the nut/nuts from the side cover, remove the cover, pull the bar away from the adjuster pawl, this will slacken the chain enough to loop the chain from the bar and off the sprocket, screw the chain adjuster fully back ( this may be in the crankcase or in the side cover ), with the guide bar now fully back loop the new chain over the sprocket, and lay it into the bar rails, with the cutters sharp edge facing away from the saw on the top of the bar ( the chain rotates clockwise as you are looking at it ) replace the side cover, if the adjuster pawl is in the cover make sure the pawl aligns with the hole in the guide bar, refit the bar nut/nuts finger tight, adjust the chain so as it touches all the way around the guide bar, with a gloved hand pull the chain around the bar to make sure it is fully into the sprocket, re tention the chain if required, hold the nose of the bar up and fully tighten the bar nut/nuts.
Once the saw has run for 10 minutes there will be an initial stretch, so you will need to re tention it.
Hope this helps.

Mar 01, 2011 | McCulloch Garden

1 Answer

On the left hand side of my bike behind the covers of i think gear box starting to make a nasty noiseits a year 2000 night train model


Well, you didn't tell me under what circumstances it makes the noise so I'm going to assume it makes the noise constantly or pretty near so.

There are several things that can cause this. The primary chain needing adjusting is the most common. If it gets too loose, it will run the inside of the case at the top front. To check the tension, remove the oval inspection cover. The top run of the chain should have 5/8" to 7/8" up and down play in the middle of the run. To adjust, loosen the nut on the shoe and move it up or down.

Also the sprocket shaft nut that holds the compensator sprocket on could have come loose. This nut requires quite a lot of torque and if someone has worked on it and didn't get it tight enough, I've seen them come loose and the nut rubs on the inside of the outer cover. Drain the oil in the primay and pull the outer cover off. If the nut is loose, remove it and put two lines of Loctite #271 (red) in the nut and retighten the nut to 150-165 foot pounds of torque. You must have a way to lock the primary up and keep the engine from turning to get this much torque on the nut. We use what is known as a locking bar that fits in the sprocket teeth of both the compensator sprocket and the clutch hub.

The other thing is not enough oil in the primay. It should have between 36-42 ounces of oil in the primary.

Good Luck
Steve

Jul 25, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard

1 Answer

Missing nut and sleeve for sprocket cover


You provided no model number. It is probably here:
Remington.com
http://www.desaparts.com/remington-chainsaw.html
If not there is a home button at the bottom of the page that provides a 1-800-number. GL
Lou

Oct 06, 2009 | Remington 16" Electric Chain Saw

1 Answer

The chain on my Remington electric saw keeps jumping the sprocket. Solution? Thanks.


Depending to what model you have, the Sprocket cover tab (located on the round part of the sprocket cover) isn’t inserted into the saw body tab slot. Or your cahin is not tensioned properly. According to the manufacturer... "The adjusting block on the adjusting screw isn’t inserted into the adjusting hole on the guide bar. Reinstall and align the sprocket cover by first removing the sprocket cover from the saw. Turn tensioning screw on the sprocket cover counter-clockwise until it stops. Pull guide bar away from saw body to remove slack from chain. Insert sprocket cover tab into saw body tab slot and lower sprocket cover into guide bar bolt. Finger tighten guide bar nut onto guide bar bolt. Slowly push guide bar toward saw body until adjusting block on the adjusting screw drops into round adjusting hole on the guide bar. Securely tighten guide bar nut after properly tensioning saw chain." If these tips do not work, you may need a new chain. You can order an new chain on-line at www.masterparts.net. I hope this helps you!

Jul 01, 2009 | Remington Electric Chain Saw

2 Answers

Cambelt change on uno turbo


By now you probably have the cam/timing belt changed on the vehicle... Here goes anyway: I changed the belt on my 1372cc (identical engine - except for the Turbo and a few odds & ends) just over a week ago by following this simple process:

Disconnect the battery negative terminal
Remove the timing belt cover
Loosen the alternator drive belt nut, tilt towards engine and remove the belt
Remove the crankshaft pulley nut (size 36) - do this by selecting top gear and have an assistant press hard on the brake pedal - remove the pulley -the timing belt is now exposed.
Using paint or tippex, simply mark the camshaft sprocket as it lies with the inside timing belt cover, do the same on the crankshaft sprocket & the auxiliary shaft sprocket.
Loosen the tensioner nut - remove the timing belt.
Check that all pulleys are still in alignment according to your markings and refit the new belt by starting on the crankshaft sprocket (the thin white line across the new belt must align with the factory marking on the crankshaft pulley) and over the auxiliary sprocket and finally over the camshaft sprocket - tension the belt with the tensioner and tighten the tensioner nut.
Rotate the engine clockwise by hand making sure the camshaft sprocket rotates twice, check the tension on the belt and make sure the tensioner nut is fully tightened and the belt is secure.
Refit the crankshaft pulley, making sure the nut is tightened and refit the alternator belt, timing cover and reconnect the battery.

The same procedure is applicable on the 999cc/1108cc FIRE models as well as the 1301cc Turbo.

Good luck.


Apr 14, 2009 | Fiat 124 Cars & Trucks

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