Question about Jenn-Air SVE47100 Slide-In Electric Kitchen Range

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Jenn-air probe won't shut off

My probe indicator keeps beeping and won't shut off! Any button I push stops the noise but only for a few seconds, then it starts again. The probe was always in the way and came off a couple of years ago. I shut off the power but when it came back on, so did the beeping! It's been an hour and honestly, I'm about to start drinking.

Shari Savage

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Re: Jenn-air probe won't shut off

Mine did the same thing kept beeping and flashing prb, solution was it was mounted very close to the frame of wall and house must of shifted causing the wires on the outside to make contact with each other. adjusted the unit and beeping stopped .

Posted on Jan 28, 2013

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SOURCE: probe indicator beeping. Can't turn off.

there is a continuous beep on my oven and it says enter the probe temperature. I never used and would like to

Posted on Apr 02, 2010

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SOURCE: beeping will not stop on jenn-air oven

your probe socket may be shorted or wires going to it grounded to frame. Or your main computer board is NG.

Posted on Dec 12, 2009

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SOURCE: my meat probe on my jenn-air electric stove works but no beep

you may need to scroll through your settings to turn the beep on

Posted on Nov 25, 2008

  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: jenn-air gas range probe light f1-10 code

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:

a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.

Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Oct 01, 2010

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