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your W6s RMS at 500 watts EACH and your sending em 250RMS (half what they need)
The 'pop' your hearing is the failure to supply enough power to draw the cone back in time and collides with the next wave of sound.
prove it? drive a single W6 with your 500/1 bridged. i'll bet your pop goes away.
long term, get another 500/1 or jump up to a 1000/1v2.
I also HIGHLY recommend JL's in-line audio cleaner. If i recall it was like 60 bucks but waaaay worth it. makes sure that theres no distortion in the source input to your amp(s), which...keeps your subs from trying to reproduce transients and delivers only clear signal to your subs void of all clipping signals. Its an active electronic compoent.
PS: if you are pushing 12W6's, i had the same setup once...I had W3s connected to my 500/1 and upgraded to the W6s...had the same issue your describing, and then got the 1000/1. happy ending.
yea the jl either setup will be good for those woofers but for the money an to get the power i would try a hifonics 2000 or the 2600 brutis or mtx or2 poweraqustic 4000 planet audio they will work great or give me a call there are a lot of amps to choose for the money an the power
From what I am able to determine, the Orion HCCA250 is a bridgeable 2-channel amp that is stable to 1ohm when bridged and outputs 800 watts RMS into that load.
The JL W6's in both 10" and 12" versions are dual voice coil with 4ohm coils so they can be wired to present either an 8ohm load (series) or a 2ohm load (parallel). They can handle 600 watts RMS.
With this combination, the best configuration would be to wire the sub voice coils in parallel for a 2ohm load and then parallel both subs to the amp bridged terminals for a final impedance of 1ohm. The subs will each be getting 400 watts.
In any event, I would not recommend running subs in series. There is some evidence for distortion being caused by something termed "back EMF".
JL W6's will perform well with from 150-600 watts RMS. W7's with from 150-500 watts. Less expensive Alpine Type R's work OK with from 200-500 watts RMS. Either of the brands will sound good. None of them will perform to their full potential with 300 watts RMS. Powering any sub with a 2-channel amp is a compromise. A monoblock is more efficient.
your w7 13's are dual 1.5 Ohm, but according to JL website, are 2.41 Ohms when the coils are in series. Each 13 connceted to each amp with voice coils in series is your best bet. The amps are designed to put out the same amount of power from 1.5 to 4 Ohms. If you parallel the voice coils, you end up with .6 Ohms and the amp will go into protect mode. You'll be drawing a lot of current, so you may want to think about 1/0 guage power wire, upgrade the wire from the alternator to battery (usually only 8 guage) and think about multiple batteries.
If you are blowing fuses this means that you are drawing too much current check your impedance value on your amplifier it should be 8 ohms to match the subwoofer's 8 ohms of impedance. In addition make sure that you have the proper value fuses. In other words you should not be tuning the amp not to blow fuses, because you should be able to go to full amplitude on your amp without blowing anything. As I alluded to this sounds like an impedance mismatch problem.
I hope this helps,
Best bet is to send it back to JL, they do not sell the PCB with all of the components loaded on it. Most likely the transistors in the power supply have fried. Open it up and see if you can find any physical damage. Google the part numbers of the bad parts, and you should be able to fix it relatively easily. www.digikey.com is a great place for parts.
Read this for more testing procedure: http://www.bcae1.com/ampfail.htm
The whole site is wonderful, really.