Question about Waring WMK300 Professional Belgian Waffle Maker
Unhappy with my Waring Pro Belgian Waffle maker because on the left side where it flips, the whole thing just fell apart.The screw hole evidently melted or just wore out and it just fell apart. This is the second on we have had. The first unit just stopped. I am just sick about this unit. Jan
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Waring pro waffle maker
I personnally just went through this.
If it is less than one year old, and you have the receipt, go to the waring site, and look up the nearest dealer for repair and bring it to them. They should be able to contact waring for you and get you a replacement.
My replacement had a silver body virsus the original black body. The shop told me they have yet had a customer repeat of this problem.
Posted on Apr 02, 2008
SOURCE: Waring Pro Waffle maker
Just spray the grids before each use with something like Pam, or put a thin coat of oil on them. I found it's better to spray before each waffle so it won't stick.
Posted on Mar 09, 2009
SOURCE: Belgian Waffle Maker Problem
Here is what is happening, and if you're out of warranty and so inclined how to easily fix it yourself.
Make sure you are unplugged from the wall before doing anything or you will get shocked. You do not need to take the bottom cover off the base. You do not need to take the top plate apart (they super glued one screw in the top plate (lid), you'll strip out the screw head trying to remove it anyhow). All you need to open is the bottom plate, it has 4 screws in it you will see when you open the lid, these screws are not super glued and will come out. 2 on each side in the back, 2 in the center of the front, long screws go in the back, short in the front.
There are 2 white wires, 1 black wire, 1 green wire that run up the neck of the waffle maker to heat the top and bottom heating elements. The 2 white wires are neutral, the green wire is a ground, the black wire is power.
This black wire runs from the electronic control board in the base of the unit, up the neck in the rear, through a thermal fuse, to the bottom element then jumps up to the top element. All you need to take apart is the bottom plate, the part you pour the batter into. It has 4 screws you will see when you open the top plate up, take those out and you are going to find the black wire is covered by a white rubber like tube about 3 inches long. In the center of this rubber insulation there is a metal clip with a single screw. Take that screw out, pull off the metal clip and slide (don't cut) the rubber like insulation back.
You will find the black wire is crimped onto a silver metal bullet looking component. This component is called a "thermal fuse", its designed to fail at 240 degrees C. Its obviously a design flaw and the thermal fuse is under rated for the actual heat within the device. Its also a one shot fuse, so when it blows it kills power on the black wire from going to the top and bottom plates, thus no heat. It is not resettable.
I didn't even cut mine out (Waring is very skimpy with their wire, they don't leave you even a hint of extra wire to work with). I just tightly twisted the bare metal wire on each side of this component like a bread tie leaving the blown fuse in place. Then be sure to slide the rubber like insulation back over all of the bare metal so it is covering the black wire on both sides. If you don't it will short out and blow your house circuit breaker when you turn it on.
This thermal fuse was probably a requirement of the UL Listing. Its over kill, everything in there is metal so if it over heats in that area there is nothing flammable to burn. If a run away temperature occurs the wire itself will melt, short out and trip your house breaker. There are stacks of these units brand new with this same problem anyone reading this is having, the thermal fuse is under rated, the fix is simple.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
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