I have a Kenmore Mod # 110.63932102 electric dryer. I've tested the voltage, thermal cutoff, high limit thermostat and the heater element and all tested ok. The dryer works but does not heat.

3-5 ACCESS TO THE BLOWER WHEEL OR THERMOSTATS

To get to the blower wheel, remove the back of the dryer.

The blower wheel is under the bottom of the lint screen duct to your left, as you look at the back of the dryer.

The operating thermostats are at the blower wheel outlet.

In electric models, the hi-temperature cutout thermostat is mounted to the heat riser.

3-6 TEMPERATURE CONTROLS AND HI-TEMP SAFETIES

These clothes dryer machines use operating thermostats to control the temperature inside the drum, and hi-limit thermostats to prevent overheating of the dryer drum.. Many machines also have extra temperature controls, such as bias thermostats and heaters, hi-temperature cutoffs, and thermal fuses.

Bias thermostats are just like regular operating thermostats, except that they are mounted inside a bias heater. When the bias heater is energized, it generates a small amount of heat, which causes the operating thermostat to open sooner, keeping the dryer drum cooler inside. Thus a bias heater allows a single operating thermostat to act like both a hi-temp and a lo-temp operating thermostat.

A thermal fuse is found on the blower outlet, right next to the operating thermostat(s.) This fuse will blow when too high a temperature is sensed at the outlet; usually when one of the operating thermostats has failed. If it blows, the motor may not start, or you may get no heat (no voltage to the burner.)

A thermal cut-off is mounted on the clothes dryer heater box. It is a back-up for the hi-limit thermostat. Whenever you replace it, you should replace the hi-limit thermostat, too. A high-temperature condition causes it to open, an overheated grounded heat element may also cause it to open.

Hello,

In addation to testing the element and thermalfuse what ya need to check is both of the thermostats that are on left side of teh housing where the heat element fits into,both of those should have zero ohms resistiance,also should check the cycling t-stat there where the thermal fuse (in the blower housing) be sure to not confuse the thermal fuse which is the blower housing with the thermal cutoff which is on the heater housing that and the high limit t-stat are the ones in the heater housing and are the most likely things making the dryer not heat.

If all above checks to be good, the timer, or the motor is whats wrong causing it to not heat.


GENE

Hello
Check high limit thermostat continuity. If ok ,Check for voltage at thermostat side of the heater element.If voltage present timer ok.Most likely centifugal switch at motor.Motor has to be running for element to work.

It's all fixable!

in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac

There is a high limit switch (looks like a button with two wires hooked to it) on the bottom of the vent frame. When the vent fills up with lent at the bottom it gets hot. For safety, this limit switch will turn heat off. Remove the vent frame and clean it out and check the continuity of the switch. Also, make sure both heater elements are working properly.

you need to actually check the resitance on the high heat thermostat and cut off... make sure if your meter has a ohms and a beeper on it it should beep when you test across it with the unit unplugged and the wires off the terminals of the limit.... when the heater is heating if you test across the two terminals of the heater if working properly you should get 0 reading.
make sure you have 220-245 volts coming into back of unit even if you think it is check it the unit will still have a light and tumble with half power. you need to test across terminals at same time and should get the above voltage..... good luck to you hope you get it fixed..... good luck

If you have changed the thermal fuse you may have a defective thermal cutoff (located at the top of the heater housing in the back). The thermal cutoff will come with the high limit thermostat located at the bottom of the heater and you should change both parts if the thermal cutoff is bad.
You can take both of the parts (the heater and the thermal cutoff) to a parts supplier to have them checked for continuity (they should both read "closed" if they are good).
Good luck to you!

Either your element is out our your thermal cutoff.  Check your element for continuity if it is open, replace the element.  If not check the thermal cutoff which is on top of the element.  If the thermal cutoff is open you will also need to replace the operating thermostat and Hi limit thermostat.  The high limit is on the element below the thermal cutoff, and the opperating thermostat is on the exhaust duct.

I eventually changed the thermal cutoff switch and the high limit thermostat as suggested in one of your replies to another consumer and now the dryer is working fine. Thanks.

the thermal cut off wires do not matter how you put them on.. The high limit is wired in series with the heating element.one red thick wire to element the wh/red top side of the high limit stat out of the high limit sat(other side) then goes to the other side of the heating element