Question about Sharp XR-11XC Multimedia Projector

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DIODE PART NUMBER 907 ON POWER SUPPLY CIRCUIT HAS HOW MANY VOLTAGES

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That diode part number is not recognizable. IT IS possible that the full number is 1s1907.which is a 400PIV diode.

If the diode is about 3/8 inch long and 1/8 diameter replace with a 1N4007 which should have adequate voltage margin if it is a rectifier diode.

One has to be careful as the original could also be a Zener regulator. The board nomenclature for that would likely have "ZD" followed by a number. Verify the diode is used as a rectifier type by tracing the circuit enough.

Posted on Oct 05, 2009

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2 Answers

Keeps blowing out fuses.


Hi Jeffrey,
There is some short circuit in the power supply board which is causing this. Do not just go trying new fuses, it may increase the damage. Please consult the TV Tech to take care.
Good luck.

Dec 03, 2015 | Magnavox 32MF301B/F7 32 in. LCD TV

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Troubleshooting? Are Your Voltages Correct!


Before we can attempt to repair anything at all, there is one thing that one MUST do before anything else is done. Now that is, the making sure that the Power Supply,of the unit, no matter what it is, has the correct Voltages, coming into it, and more importantly, coming OUT of it. This is absolutely imperative, as, IF these Voltages are NOT correct then NOTHING will work, properly at all. So we must measure these voltages with a Volt Meter. or a Multimeter set to DC Volts. ( Always use a good quality meter, as if your meter is bad, so are your readings, and we can need to read to within, +/- 0.1 Volts). All Voltage measurements are made with reference to ground. Meaning we clip, our Black, Minus, Lead onto the Earth, or Chassis, or Negative (-) "Rail" of the Power Supply. Now with the Red lead, we can now, measure these Voltages. Now sometimes, the Voltage of each Output is annotated,or written, onto the PCB, that will indicate the Voltage of that output. However most usually they are NOT, so in this case we MUST have a manual to tell us. Now this manual is called a "Service Manual" or sometimes a "Repair Manual" This manual, is absolutely vital, so much so, that it can be near impossible, to do without it. To Order ANY "Bits" you need the parts, "Part Number" a Number that "Identifies" it to the Factory, so we/they know what it exactly is. Without that number you simply cannot get the correct parts. Also too, apart from having "Troubleshooting" step through's, it also has our Voltages. When we measure these Voltages they are 100% EXACT, so IF the Voltage you measure, except for a few rare exceptions, the "Rail" that is NOT at the correct voltage is the one, that the "Fault/Cause" is "ON". Therefore we can now work outwards from the Power Supply, looking for the cause of that problem. Now if the Voltage is Lower than specified, we are invariably looking for a "Short", something has "Faulted" and is "Dragging" the Power Rail down to earth. possibly a Capacitor, or Diode, or an IC. Now if the "Rail" is "Higher" than the specified Voltage then the fault we are looking for is usually some sort of "Open Circuit" possibly a Diode, or Resistor, that has changed it's "Value", due to heat or stress. Now knowing this, and knowing that, the Power Supply is the FIRST & ONLY place to start you troubleshooting and repair from. You now have a MUCH better chance of a "Fix". One thing more, DO NOT forget to get your SERVICE MANUAL. for you exact make & model. even if you pay for it, you will be glad you did.

on Mar 21, 2010 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

My kdl-32l5000 has a diode shorted in the power supply but i cant find out what kind of diode it is the location number is ''D6103''


Look for another diode on that circuit board that looks identical and take a reading in ohms with no meter and that the diode you will need to replace the resistor it should say on the circuit panel look with a magnifying glass

Aug 16, 2014 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

Hp computer tower will not go on


Would that be an LED (Light Emitting Diode), blinking on the back of the Power Supply?

If so, instead of being an LED that indicates the Power Supply has power to it, it has now turned into a diagnostic LED (Light), and is telling you the Power Supply is bad.

Do you have an economical multimeter, so I can guide you in testing the 3 low DC Voltages; that come out of the Power Supply?
An economical multimeter can be purchased for as little as $5 to $12.
I have seen them on checkout aisle racks, in major discount stores.

The dangerous high AC voltage, is kept contained within the metal case of the Power Supply.
(100 to 240 Volts depending on what country you are in)

The Power Supply is a Converter.
It converts the high AC voltage into 3 low DC Voltages;
3.3 Volts, 5 Volts, and 12 Volts.
In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC.

OR;
Use a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply; for a temporary test unit.

{"Honey, I'm going to borrow the Power Supply out of your computer.
I'll put it back when I'm done."
"What? I'll be sleeping on the couch? K"} (Lol!)

Also, is the inside of the computer dirty?
(Computer Unplugged from power, Anti-Static Procedures FOLLOWED)

Let's start here......

Also, what is the Product Number?
Back of computer tower, white Service Tag.
P/N = Product Number


Post back in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

Apr 09, 2013 | HP Pavilion Computers & Internet

3 Answers

My misubishi ws-65809 would not turn on and had the 2-2 blinking light self test. I pulled the convergence board to replace the IC's and when I inspected the board I found that a diode in the middle of...


Hi, well when testing a diode you DO NOT use the meter set to OHMS, indeed you need to use a meter with a "Diode test" feature, you see when using a test with only OHMS, it will NOT supply enough current, unlike the diode test function, to bias the junction correctly, and give you the proper reading. Using OHMS only will and does give erroneous readings always.
Now as to the problem, i see where another person has jumped on the old "Capacitor" bandwagon, if only all faults were so... look without inspecting the unit and taking voltage and current readings it is simply frivolousness to state such a thing unless one has direct knowledge of the fault?

Look to effect ANY repairs one simply MUST obtain a service manual and start with the Power supply and check the voltages there and work out, there simply is NO other way.
The fault you describe may have a myriad of reasons why the unit is doing this "Fault" there is NO shortcut, NO magic method of diagnosing anything OK. With a problem like this unless VERY experienced, one should simply replace any suspected boards, "On Spec" as it were.
Before we can attempt to repair anything at all, there is one thing that one MUST do before anything else is done. Now that is, the making sure that the Power Supply,of the unit, no matter what it is, has the correct Voltages, coming into it, and more importantly, coming OUT of it. This is absolutely imperative, as, IF these Voltages are NOT correct then NOTHING will work, properly at all. So we must measure these voltages with a Volt Meter. All Voltage measurements are made with reference to ground. Meaning we clip, our Black, Minus, Lead onto the Earth, or Chassis, or Negative (-) "Rail" of the Power Supply. Now with the Red lead, we can now, measure these Voltages. Now sometimes, the Voltage of each Output is annotated,or written, onto the PCB, that will indicate the Voltage of that output. However most usually they are NOT, so in this case we MUST have a manual to tell us. Now this manual is called a "Service Manual" or sometimes a "Repair manual" This manual is absolutely vital so much so, that it can be near impossible to do without it. As apart from having "Troubleshooting" step through's, it also has our Voltages. When we measure these Voltages they are 100% EXACT, so IF the Voltage you measure, except for a few rare exceptions, the "Rail" that is NOT at the correct voltage is the one, that the "Fault/Cause" is "ON". Therefore we can now work outwards from the Power Supply, looking for the cause of that problem. Now if the Voltage is Lower than specified, we are invariably looking for a "Short", something has "Faulted" and is "Dragging" the Power Rail down to earth. Now if the "Rail" is "Higher" than the specified Voltage then the fault we are looking for is usually some sort of "Open Circuit" possibly a Diode, or resistor that has changed it's "Value". Now knowing this and knowing that the Power Supply is the FIRST place to start you troubleshooting and repair from. You now have a MUCH better chance of a "Fix". One thing more, DO NOT forget to get your SERVICE MANUAL. for you exact make & model. even if you pay for it, you will be glad you did.
OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.

Sep 27, 2011 | Mitsubishi WS-65809 65" Rear Projection...

2 Answers

The problem is power out put voltage diodes are completely burned I not getting the value of the diodes The voltages are 72v 50v 6.3v 13v -12v These are out put voltages .so please sending me...


hi;
  1. Diode: UF4007, 1000V 1Ampere ; for 72V
  2. Diode: GUR460L, 600V, 4Ampere : for 50V
  3. Diode: UF5404,400V, 3Ampere: for 6.3V
  4. Diode: UF1G, 400V, 1.2Ampere: for 13V
  5. Diode: TVR10G, 400V, 1Ampere: for -12V
_71.jpg

Nov 12, 2010 | SAMTRON 55V 15" CRT Monitor

1 Answer

Mixer not working and board getting hot


There is likely a voltage regulator or a diode burned out in the vicinity of the power supply. If you have the schematic, start at the power supply and work through the circuit to the I.C. Also look up the pinout on the internet for that I.C. With the power on test the voltages at each pin on the I.C. You should not have supply voltage readings on any of the signal pins. This is an indication that the I.C. is also burned out. Use a volt ohm meter with a D.C. voltage setting. Also hopefully your meter should have a diode test function. If not you can still test them with the resistance test function.Here is a link to an explanation:http://www.elexp.com/t_test.htm I hope this helps.

Mar 03, 2010 | Vestax Pmc 280 DJ Mixer

1 Answer

I turn the tv on and after a few seconds it shuts itself back off again. At that point I can't turn it back on until I unplug it and plug it back in. However, when I turn it back on it will again turn...


Possibly the main Power Regulator is damaged!!!

Open the case, then look for anything that burned out, replace it!!!

If still won't start, you need a multimeter, soldering iron, try locate output diode on power regulator board, then measure the voltages, it has 3-4 type of voltages;
first diode it should around 115V-130 V DC.
Second diode it should around 24 V DC.
Third diode it should around 11-16 V DC.
Fourth ( if exist), check diode and should around 5 V DC.

The problems usually start on second diode, if persist, follow the circuit board.

Oct 18, 2009 | Sharp 27K-S100 TV

2 Answers

TRC520 CB wont power up


Hello, First of all you only have the Power wire Red, and the ground wire Black to connect for 12v DC to power the unit. If you memory power it is usually connected to a constant power source such as the cigarette lighter or continuous 12V dc powersupply off of the battery. These are the only connections that should be connected to provide power. Since the unit will not turn on I suspect that the CB's power supply and regulator have been blown. Another possible choice is that the radio was working and someone removed the antenna cable and the the RF power amplifier malfunctioned taking the power supply and regulator with it. To solve this problem, check the voltages on the wires before connecting them to the radio (these should be the 12 volt power off of the radio circuit, and the 12 volt power off of the continuous 12V connector (or the cigarette lighter). These voltages should read 12V. Connect the CB with it turned off and measure the voltages (should be 12V) Turn the radio on and check the voltages (should be a little less than 12V) If the radio does not come on then the internal power supply of the radio might be defective (In this case I would advise taking the CB to a qualified radio repair shop) I hope this helps Thank you, Shuttle83 http://www.electron-age-technologies-llc.com

Jun 11, 2009 | Radio Shack TRC-521 CB Radio

3 Answers

Sony tv no picture only horizontal line


The probable defective part is the vertical IC. If changing that does not resolve the problem, check the capacitors in the same circuit. Also, check for the proper voltages at the vertical IC. If the IC is not being fed its power, it won't work either. I don't have a listing for your specific model. If you can post the vertical IC part number (LA7837 for example), I can list the voltages per pin.
Dan

Apr 09, 2008 | Televison & Video

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