Question about Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

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Kenmore agitates doenst spin

Bought in 02 just replaced timer a few months ago..now it is agitating but not spinning on spin cycle?? my kenmore elite heavy duty king size quiet pack II 3 speed/motor 6 speed, ultra finse, total care; drains, agitates, moves through the cycles, sounds like it is spinning (can hear motor running) but will not spin, it will move from not spinning to off ? Help

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  • workingmom
    workingmom Dec 22, 2007

    Is there someone that knows this washer? I need to try and fix this myself since I lack the funds right now to hire a repairman

  • workingmom
    workingmom Dec 23, 2007

    I don't see a number under the lid. The numbers I see I don't think are model numbers. There is a SM 9711174 and a PN 3953615. When I was looking for a solution I saw someone on another site asking a different question but describing exactly the same washer as I have and the model number they posted was 110.60932990

  • workingmom
    workingmom Dec 23, 2007

    I found a number on the upper back 3356472

  • workingmom
    workingmom Dec 23, 2007

    Okay, my daughter found the model number
    110.23032100

  • workingmom
    workingmom Dec 24, 2007

    It will only spin if I start it by hand and then slowly and eventually stop. Can repeat, giving another spin by hand, again slowly and stop. Can I hit accept and still communicate with you, so that you will get paid?

  • workingmom
    workingmom Dec 24, 2007

    Forgot to tell you that there is no oil on the insides 8" up of cabinet or anywhere, sides are clean. We "jumped accross" like you suggested to find out It will only spin if I start it by hand and then slowly and eventually stop. Can repeat, giving another spin by hand, again slowly and stop.

  • workingmom
    workingmom Dec 24, 2007

    I didn't get to rate the expert who was communicating with me on this problem "watugot". How do I do that? I would rate him as FixYa +. His advice and detail are much appreciated, he clearly knows what he is doing. Workingmom

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There are 3 things that may be wrong.
The timer is keeping the transmission in neutral drain.
The clutch is slipping.
The basket drive block that supports the basket has failed.
Aimiel is correct that you will need to see what is happening during the spin to diagnose the problem. Please post the complete model number from the top under the lid and I will try to walk you through checking it.
Thanks/Mike

Posted on Dec 23, 2007

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  • Michael  Lindley
    Michael Lindley Dec 23, 2007

    Thanks for the model number, most of the Kenmore top load washers are basicly the same but there are some differences that make a difference when troubleshooting a problem.



    The easiest thing to find out is if the machine is staying in neutral drain. This means that the timer is not dropping voltage to the motor after the drain portion of the cycle and letting the gearcase go into spin. If this is happening, then you should be able to put the timer to the spin cycle manually after it has completed a cycle, and it spin out correctly even though it doesn't work properly if you just put it in wash and leave it alone. If it spins properly when you do this, put it in the rinse cycle and let it fill and agitate. It will agitate through the rinse then stop for a few minutes then start draining the water. It will drain for 1-2 minutes then it should stop for a couple seconds then start back with a "clunk" and start spinning. If it does not stop for that couple seconds, the gearcase won't go into spin and there is a problem with the timer.



    To check the mechanical parts of the washer,

    Pop off the trim pieces on each end of the console and remove the screws that hold the console to the top. The console will flip up and back.

    You will see the wiring connector that goes to the lid switch. It plugs into a connector that sticks up through the top of the machine. IT IS NOT THE CONNECTOR WITH THE LARGE BLACK WIRES GOING TO IT. That is the power cord, don't mess with it. There will be 3 wires in the connector, one is green.

    You want to use a piece of insulated wire with about 1/4" of bare wire exposed on each end to "jump" across the two wires that are not the green one. I think they are gray and white but my memory may be wrong. This will let you leave the lid up and watch the basket during spin.

    Put the washer into spin and see if the basket tries to spin, see if you can start the basket spinning by hand.

    If it spins slowly or will only start spinning if you start it by hand, the clutch is slipping. Unplug the lid switch connector and pop out the clips that hold the cabinet to the back of the washer. The cabinet will tilt forward and slide off the washer base. Look inside the cabinet and see if there is a line of oil that has been slung onto the sides of it about 8" up from the bottom. If so, the gearcase is leaking oil onto the clutch causing it to slip.



    If the basket will not spin at all, there is a problem with the basket drive or the basket drive block.

    Post back with what you find out and we will go from there. I will be out most of the day but will check back in with you this evening.

    Thanks/Mike

  • Michael  Lindley
    Michael Lindley Dec 23, 2007

    You can go to sears.com, click on parts, enter your model number and look at diagrams of the washer parts. This will give you a better idea of how the machine is put together and may aid in disassembling the washer.

    Mike

  • Michael  Lindley
    Michael Lindley Dec 24, 2007

    You can accept my solution and still communicate or wait until we have repaired it or went as far as you can go.. I would appreciate you rating it at some point, if it goes unrated the first response will get credit for the solution.



    It sounds as if you will have to replace the clutch but there is a chance that some article of clothing has gotten between the basket and tub and is binding the basket. Since you have the cabinet off, take the tub ring off and look all around the basket for anything that is caught between the tub and basket. the tub ring is held to the tub by several catches that hook over knobs on the tub.



    You will have to remove the agitator, water pump, and transmission to get to the clutch.

    Pop the fabric softener dispenser from the agitator. Pop out the cap inside top of the agitator and remove the bolt holding the agitator. You will need a 7/16 socket and extension. Pull the agitator out and remove the clip and plastic spacer.

    At the bottom of the machine, pop off the clips holding the water pump to the motor and remove the pump. You can leave the hoses hooked up and just keep the pump to the side out of the way. Unplug the wires from the motor and remove the plastic clip that holds the harness to the transmission by pressing the tang on it and pushing it down through the hole. Remove the screws holding the motor with a 1/4 socket and pop the clips off. Pop the bottom first and hold the motor in place when you remove the top one or the motor will fall in the floor. Remove the motor and set it aside. Now tip the washer back against the wall so that it will rest there without you holding it. Remove the three bolts holding the transmission in place with a 1/2 socket. I usually remove the back one first, then the one on the right, then the one on the left that is easiest to get to while holding the transmission up. When the bolts are out, the gearcase will slide out of the washer. The clutch is mounted to the top of the transmission.

    Continued in a minute....

  • Michael  Lindley
    Michael Lindley Dec 24, 2007

    With the transmission out, turn the shaft on the front, It should turn freely both directions. One direction will turn the clutch and the other direction will turn the agitator shaft. You may have to turn it several rounds to actually see any movement. When you get it to turning the clutch, you should not be able to hold the clutch still and still turn the input shaft. If so there is a problem inside the gearcase.

    Now, look at the clutch. If it has any oil or grease on it you may be able to clean it up with some dishwashing detergent or degreaser to get you back to working for a while. To remove it remove the washer that sits on top of it. Remove the "E" clip, then remove the small wire clip that sits in the groove inside the outer drive shaft. The clutch will now slide off the transmission.



    Look up inside the machine where you took the gearcase from. You will see the brake assembly and drive tube. You should be able to spin the basket from here by turning the plastic brake release actuator counterclockwise while pushing up on the whole assembly to keep the basket from falling down against the tub. It should turn easily as long as you keep turning it and the brake catches it when you stop turning. If it doesn't turn freely by hand you may still have something between the tub and basket, or the drive tube needs greasing or replacing.

    Set the machine back on the floor. The large nut at the top of the center of the basket will have to come off. You do this with a piece of flat steel that will sit against the shoulder of the notches you see in the nut. Then you use a large hammer to hit the steel to turn the nut counter clockwise. Some of them come loose easily and some will not. Once you have the nut off, the basket will come up out of the tub.

    You can now remove whatever is binding the basket or remove the drive tube from the bottom of the machine.

    Tilt the machine back against the wall and twist the brake actuator counterclockwise again while pulling down. The drive tube will slide down and out of the center post of the machine.

    You may be able to grease the drive tube and reinstall it to get it back to working. It takes just a small amount of grease, too much and it will end up on your clutch and cause it to slip. Just a film all over the tube will do.

    You now have instructions on disassembly of the complete drive system of the washer. Reassemble in reverse order.

    Post back if you run into trouble or have any questions.

    I do not type very quickly so I think I could have taken the machine apart in about the same time it took me to type it all out. LOL

    Thanks/Mike

  • Michael  Lindley
    Michael Lindley Dec 24, 2007

    Thanks for the rating and the kind words. We get our rating by the ratings of our solutions. By rating the solution you also rate the expert.

    Thanks/Mike

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  • 265 Answers

You will have to look at the inside of the washer when in spin cycle to see what is going on. Is the spinner motor not engaging the drum? Is the spinner working at all? It sounds like the spinner isn't being moved against the drum before the spin cycle starts. Most washers use a seperate spinner motor, which is lifted off the drum by a relay and / or solenoid and if one or more of those is malfunctioning, it will cause your described problem.

Posted on Dec 22, 2007

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