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I have a used model # upnc-058c. I am getting low air velocity from the vents, which are removed down to a foot from the unit. In addition, the freon fill noozle is damaged. the freon escaped and had to be refilled. THe technician who filled it then left his tool screwed onto the exterioir of the unit, instead of fixing the leak. Does this sound fishy? The tech is employed by my landlord, who has another two weeks by contract to get the bulding up to spec. would appreciate any suggestions. The low air volume is my main concern, as the jimmy fix on the freon plug is holding.
If the inside evaporator is freezing over, that will surely impede air flow. The tool thing? put you init together and if it works ok.he'll be back, if it doesn't, chances are he won't come back unless you call him out again and you can use the tool to coax him and bring up the A/C issue. Good Luck
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Full-size open VariFlame burners in front with standard open rear burners
VariFlame burners allow heat to go from a high of 14,000 BTU all the way down to a slow simmer at 400 BTU on open burner models.
BUT, any hood will suffice. The more money you spend, the greater the CFM and the more style bells and whistles. Also realise the more CFM, the more noise you get. My cheap 2 speed hood is only ever used on low power. Also if you vent to outside, you don't need as much power.
What model do you have? It's probably a low-end fan from Home Depot or Lowes. Next time check the CFM's, which are printed on the box. The higher the # ,the better. Don't get anything below a 5500 CFM. Remember, you get what you pay for! Don't buy by brand name.
when your measureing air speed its best to build your box different cause theirs no way like you have it for it to be close to accurate in the a/c field we use a volmeter it gives us our pfm so we can convert to cfm if you take a 6 inch tap off the center of that can where the total air passes thru it it will give you a steady pressure to go by
Your in cabin air filter is probably clogged. $12 at rockauto.com
you could remove the filter and blow it out with compressed air. Put it back oriented in the same direction as removed. Your owners manual should have detailed directions.
The basic standard to figure out how many tons of air is needed is to get the square footage of every room that has a ceiling or floor boot. You need at least 1 cfm per square foot. So for example, if you have a 2000 square foot house, you need at least 2000 cfm which is converted into 5 tons of air. You convert cfm into tons with every 400 cfm/square foot being 1 ton of air. This is only residential of course and all ceiling heights at around 8 to 10 ft. Some other factors fall into play, but thats the basics. Hope this helps.
lift seat up,then remove the air box decortive cover then remove air box cover remove air filter and at the base of the velocity stack are o-rings slide them up and remove the5mm screws then remove the bottom of the air box and the batttery is up front disconnect the cables and pull the rubber strape towards you and down then remove battery when replacing the velocity stacks do not over tighten the allen screws and make sure you put the o-rings back down to the base good luck
that is bunch of bull there is always something that can be done. one is the unit big enough for the house? the formula i use is 1 CFM ( cubic foot min)for every SQ foot. basically if your house is 1200 SQ feet you need a 3 ton unite. there other factor, like windows, which way house faces duck size extra. i would get anther guy!
In most every case i have seen this happen, the dryer is connected to flexible venting. Flexible venting is the worst thing for a dryer. Rigid aluminum only. If your element shuts down that fast, it is definitely an air flow problem. Remove the front, clean out the lint screen housing from the spout to the blower, all the way to the lint screen so that it looks factory clean. The venting must be absolutely clean as it was the day it was put in new. The outside application, whether it is louvers, vent flapper, or ball vent, must be clean and operable as a new one. Once again, my suspicion is the venting as it is most likely a flexible type of venting with either excessive length or restricted flow. A dryer can only be vented for 30 ft. counting 5ft for every elbow and 5ft for the outside application. But the flexible equates as this...for every 1 foot of flex you must add 5 foot because of air restriction. I am surprised that the non resetable fuse has not blown yet. ( it will, trust me.)
Hi! Try to blow them out using compressed air +-5 bar through heater vents, close the remaining vents and blow each one from the top down. Follow each vent duct to the heater box to see if anything came loose. Another solution is removing heater ducts starting at the heater box, use a thin brazing/weldinng wire with one end bent in a u shape, pushing it into the ducts. Happy hunting. Also check the inside of the heater box using a flash light. This might require some removal of console and facia panels located close to foot conrtols brake/clutch and accellorater pedals.
Regards
Phillip
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