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When going down the road it there is a slight rpm change like the ac compressor is running but the ac an fan are both turned off if i take it out of overdrive an put it into 3rd gear the rpm increases like it should but the engine sounds like it is missing an the truck shakes i think it has something to do with the fuel system like the fuel filter or the plugs and wires need replacing just looking for a second opinion

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Not likely fuel related.
The ignition is not firing properly.
Sparkplugs..
maybe the sparkplug wires
ignition module (or distributor/rotor)
ECM (Electronic control module).

Posted on Oct 05, 2009

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When i turn on my heat/air on defrost or auto my rpms go up... what could cause this


The basic concept is that in auto or defrost the air conditioner compressor is activated.
The compressor when activated via an electrical clutch adds an additional load that will reduce the engine RPM. The the RPM is increased slightly when the A/C is activated to prevent the engine from stalling. Power produced by the engine is increased by allowing more air and gas into the engine. When it is working perfectly the RPM will remain the same but the engine will produce the additional power to power the AC compressor.

Usually the bi-pass air valve is how the compensation for the additional power is accomplished.

Depending on your make year and model several methods to achieve the AC compensations have been used. In your specific case if the compressor is not working(no Air) and the compensation is open loop no engine control electronics I would expect a surge in RPM. With no additional load from the AC the additional air into the engine would increase the RPM.
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Hope this helps?

Feb 24, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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On the 02 sebring when the cooling fan or i turn on the air the car idles(rpm) high then back down then stalls out if i dont hit the gas to steady the rpms


run the fault codes as the ecm should compensate for the extra load on the engine when the ac compressor cuts in
there will be a rpm drop of around 150 rpms when it cuts in then it should settle back to normal rpms and when the ac cuts out the rpms will go up and the settle back to normal
anything else indicates a sensor fault.

Jun 26, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

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Rattling coming from front of engine. Comes and goes. Seems like ac compressor or fan?


There is a known problem with the bearing on the AC compressor going out. I had to replace my compressor due to this. However it is possible to replace just the bearing, but takes some know how.

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Where is the location of the engine fan switch


If you are running a Horton fan clutch and it is not working off the switch I suspect that there is not enough air flow through the condenser to prevent the ac compressor going to an over pressure situation and cutting the compressor clutch out. When travelling there will be air through the condenser to keep the head pressure within range. I would be fixing the manual switch problem as I feel that is where the core problem lies.

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My 98' Saturn Sl1 air conditioning does not work. Before I got my motor fixed it worked but now that I replaced it with a used new motor it wont blow out cold air. The Heater works prefect but the Ac...


If you didn't take the air compressor off the old engine then you probably have a bad compressor on the new motor. If you did then you may not have installed it or wired it correctly.

With the car in idle, turn the AC on and off and watch the rpms, they should fluctuate slightly when you turn it on and off, if they don't change at all then the compressor probably isn't wired to the controls.

The reason for the fluctuating RPM is that when the compressor kicks on it creates a load on the engine, which causes the rpms to temporarily dip down, the engine will then feed more gas to recover the original RPM.

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1 Answer

Kenmore central air conditioning unit tripping breaker each time we turn it on.


The breaker tripping when you turn the unit on indicates a 'direct short' and 99 out of a 100 times the short will be either the outside fan motor or the compressor itself. Either way - you will need a qualified serviceperson to diagnose this problem correctly and make the needed repairs.
Best solution is to call AC person.
However, here's a good way you can get it down to either the fan motor or the compressor.
(1) With all power OFF - disconnect the wires to the fan motor
(2) turn on AC unit (a) if breaker trips it means the compressor is probably the shorted component. (b) if breaker DOES NOT trip and the compressor runs - it means the fan motor is shorted.
(3) If breaker tripped with the fan motor disconnected meaning the compressor is probably shorted you can then (with ALL POWER OFF) 'disconnect the wires going to the compressor' and re-connect the fan motor wires. Turn on power - and if fan motor runs (with compressor wires off) you know it's the compressor that is shorted.
After all this you will now know which of the two (compressor or fan motor) is shorted.
If it's the fan motor you can with 'limited mechanical experience' change the motor yourself, but if it's the compressor you will need to call a serviceperson because of the expertise needed to replace the compressor.

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I have my dometic Rooftop ac unit. The heatstrip/fan run perfectly but when I turn on the ac...the fan runs good but when the compressor kicks on it just hums.


The compressor coming on does make a slight "humming" sound which is normal. Is the unit cooling properly? Do you think it is louder than before?

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alternator needs good battery to keep SCR in the regulator on if it is loaded it will shut down. this will happen when you try rolling window down or rear defog will load up the system. When the truck is running and battery is hooked up the vehicle should run at @700 RPM at idle and when A/C compressor is commended on it should idle up to @1000 RPM and then back down to @700 RPM when compressor cycle off again. But if the system almost stalls then the battery and alternator should be changed together, A bad battery will damage a new alternator and a bad alternator will damage a new battery.

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C180 air con not blowing cold air, all else seems to be working, fan, no warning lights etc.


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AC not cool at idle


since you have taken the first step of checking the freon the next thing you should add is does the ac blower stay the same speed or change as you go faster i would check to see while the engine is running open the hood watch the clutch turn on and how long it stays on if can have someone push the pedal to rev the engine if if the clutch doesn't kick on while idle then the clutch is at the point where the rpm of the motor force it to kick on and it is bad and well you now what will be need to be done then but first try changing the ac sensor for the compressor it tells it when to come on and when to go off when the car is running period try this first no point of spending a couple hundred for a compressor

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