- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Typically, the hot side of circuits are switched - neutral is always presented at the load. This is for safety. If hot were always present - any accidental ground (at any time) would either power up the load until removed - or cause direct short if it contacted the always hot terminal. If the hot is present at the solenoid only during times it is needed to fill, then you you could safely connect the neutral from the other solenoid. HOWEVER - since I do not know which fridge you have and can't verify the wiring - you'll have to do some testing on your own before attempting. Have a look at the neutral side of the solenoid and see if you can't locate a break in the wire somewhere - with the fridge unplugged.
It does sound like the Inlet valve to me also, there could be 2 causes. 1. You probably wont need to replace the whole Inlet valve itself, but you can get inlet valve service kits to service them, but I would advise to get it done by a qualified service engineer, because if you try to dismantle it without the correct knowledge, there is a very strong spring inside which can cause serious injury.
2. Inlet Valve solenoid. Depending on which year, for the inlet valve to open, there is a signal that is sent to it via a solenoid to tell it to open, this signal is sent from the controller. Have a look and test the solenoid to make sure it is getting voltage (is it clicking?), if not, then the controller could possibly be at fault, or the solenoid itself.
If this type of compressor is run for any length of time in the wrong direction you will do damage for sure now if this unit is shut down while it is loaded (producing air) it will push lubricant out of the inlet filter most of the time people hit the emergency stop button to shut it done which is wrong the compressor should be unloaded first which when unloaded the inlet valve will be closed which then the compressor will be running unloaded and can now be shut down using the off button or switch not sure which one you have other reasons why this could happen failing load/unload solenoid usually the vent is plugged or bad minimum pressure check valve
Read before doing any Work!! I worked on more electrical than engine powered units. However it sounds like the load valve is not supplying the correct amount of air to the inlet valve.I would remove the air filter at the inlet valve. depending on the type of inlet on the unit it may be air to open or air to close. there should be a line (probably 1/4 plastic) running to the inlet valve. With the unit running if it's air to close and you have the line off the valve will probably open. If the inlet opens be prepared to shut the unit down ASAP before you lift a safety. It May not fully open but enough to make some air.if this happens fell the end of the line removed. you should fell some air coming out of it. If so replace the load valve. It will be the valve the line runs back to. I should have gotten you to check the inlet valve to make sure it moves freely by hand before starting the unit.then do the above. If it's air the open you can test by using an air tank and observing the inlet valve. if it's air to open start tracing back to the point you find air . you will probably find the load valve controlling the air going to the inlet which is again probably bad. Again my expertise is in the electrical side but the above will get you started in the right direction. even though it engine driven the airend is the same as electrical. they just go about the controls differently. please be extra careful while trouble shooting this.
The blow down is a normally open valve so there will be no voltage when unloaded. When voltage is applied the blow down valve closes and the load solenoid opens allowing air to the inlet valve which should open. I suspect you have a bad load solenoid. If it leaks by it will keep the inlet valve open to some degree depending on how bad its leaking. If this is an older EP50SE you may have a spring in the bottom of the inlet valve that has broken. then there is not enough pressure to close the inlet valve. These are two common problems with this unit. Also if you look inside the controller panel there should be a wiring diagram. It should show 1SV and 3SV wired together. 1SV is the load solenoid and 3SV is the blow down valve. There is no unload solenoid. There is also a solenoid for line / sump pressure and a modulation solenoid.
Depends on the inlet valve of your air compressor, if it is a total closure type ( flat plate that closes completely) it is either a failure of the inlet valve seals or the control solenoid or other valve that controls the inlet valve.
If it uses a butterfly type inlet valve it is one of 2 things,,,, first if is spun slow after shut down and just oil was lost, the oil stop valve failed to close, if it spun fast and a combination of oil and air was discharged it was a stuck open air end discharge valve.
first of all check power comming to the solenoid valve ,if not check the contacta at the contactor box.If yes,with a multimeter check the resistance of solenoid coil.If ok,the mechanical part of the solenoid is not working,better change the solenoid valve then.
so in another word your air compressor is mot pumping air.
(1) check for leaks
(2)check the air filter
(3) check the inlet valve
(4) if their is unloader valve (a) pressure switch
(b) load solenoid valve
(c) unloader valve