My Trane (model 2TGB3F18A-36A) home A/C unit (two years old) starts fine, then after a couple of minutes you hear a rattling noise and the compressor shuts off, meanwhile the blower will still run for some minutes afterward (and you also hear gurgling noises coming from it). The A/C will only work for 2 to 4 minutes each time it shuts off, will stay off for a long time before restarting and showing the same problem all over again. My setting is on automatic. Outside temperature (I am in Miami, Florida) is around 82 degrees, inside setting is at 75 degrees.
You will ear the rattling in the inside unit (I believe it comes from the blower) and also in the outside unit. What can it be?
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Re: A/C unit compressor shuts off
You will need a technician to check the system pressures with a gauge. Souns like the compressor is fighting high pressure in the coil that is outside.. Try this.Right after the compressor chugs to a stop, un plug unit and run cool garden hose water over the outsife coil for a few minutes, then see if the compressor will start again any sooner yhan before. If so. High pressure is the problem. But you still need a tech to adjust the refrigerant level. Make sure air is blowing out from the coils. You may want to clean the coils before our little test Hose it out with pressure yo remove any buildup on the coil and fins. Spray with 409 if you wish, it would help remove the dirt. Let it drip dry for half an hour and see if the compressor still shuts down. Make sure any water coming from the a/c itself is draining so the fan doesn't throw it around. Good luck Ned
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If the unit is running in cold weather than there is ice building up on the coils located outside. This is normal in that the unit is running in heat pump mode heating inside and cooling outside, After the unit detects the ice build up it briefly reverses the cycle heating the outside coils melting(defrosting) the ice which you observe as water on the pad.
That's a complicated system that needs a qualified technician to service it. Lots of people can install them and they run fine, for a few years. Your indoor unit, operating on 2 heat elements, will feel like its blowing cold air even though its heating, just not so well. And not like you are accustomed to. Each element (5kw)=22.7amps, on average. So 3 elements operating should trip a breaker. Its probably been operating on 2 heat element plus the heat pump. And now you have trouble with the heat pump. If you can't TRUST the guys working on your equipment, try someone else. A second opinion. Normally a 3 or 4 ton unit will have 15kw heat installed, heatpump or not. 5 ton, 20kw. If yours is a 3-4ton, cooling, the 100amp(or normally two 60 amp) breaker should have been installed upon equipment change out. If yours is blowing cold all the time, something is wrong with your heatpump. The electric heat inside operates only when the heatpump can't keep up(real cold outside), the heatpump is in defrost(then it's actually in cooling mode), or if you have the tstat in aux/em. heat. Try a local trane dealer? Of a technician with 15-20 yrs under their belt. A trane dealer should have trane tech support also. BIG HELP!!!
If your refrigerator is a few years old it may have an electromechanical timer to control the defrost cycle. With age and/or lots of dust the timer motor can wear out or the switch contacts can get stuck. Behind the grill below the door there should be a small black box with several wires coming out of it. On the front of the box there is a small (dime sized) round disk with a slot in it. This is the defrost timer, a 24-hour clock mechanism which switches the cooling unit off and the defrost heaterson for 15 or 20 minutes every 24 hours (approximately). Insert a small insulated screwdriver into the slot and turn it slowly clockwise until you hear a click. The compressor and fan(s) should turn on (if they aren't running already) and the defrost heaters should turn off. If you continue turning the timer disk you should hear another click and the compressor & fans will shut off and the heaters turn on. Stop turning the disk at this point. Wait a couple of minutes and then turn the disk a few degrees farther (5 degrees represents about 20 minutes). You should hear a click and the compressor starting up again. If there is no change and the heaters still seem to be on, then you may need to replace the timer (it should unplug from the wiring harness). A Home Appliance Parts store should be able to provide you with a compatible replacement timer.
You have a mess, You need a complete new duct system and new equipment.......
You have a 2 1/2 ton AC which needs 1000 cfm of air to do the job. You need a supply trunk line 8 by 24 inch with takeoffs of a Min of 6" round pipe to each register which will delvery 100 cfm per run 4" will only delivery about 30 cfm per run.... and then you also need a 10 by 24 return Duct to the furnace ....
So that is why the heat exchanger burned up and the that is why the Compressor is noisy because you was flooding back liquid to the compressor... All because of air flow....
If you replace the AC or Furnace without replacing the Ductwork you will burn them up also....
You can wait just buy a capaciter start system theat will override the old start capaciter, this is a common problem for all ac systems. just bu the ac start replacement and yo should be good to go for a couple more years. and if you want a reference page let me know where and I will give it to you.