I have a GE washer model WPSR3100W0WW. It has been in storgae for probably at lesat 3 years. I ran it through two cycles and it worked fine as far as I can tell but the metal bottom is covered with what appears to be some sort of old oil residue. I assume it to be from a transmission oil leak. It is not currently dripping and I cannot tell just where it came from. Do these transmissions contain a fairly thin thype of oil/fluid in sufficient quantity to completely cover the bottom of the washer? I can get a replacement transmission for under $150 but I'm not sure that is the culprit.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
GE washers are notorious for transmission leaks. Personally, I wouldn't spend much time or effort on a major repair of a 14 year old washer. Suggest you contact a local parts house and see if the upper seal is available as a kit. Other sites suggest that this transmission is no longer available new, and even then it's a $250 part. If you ruin one load of clothes with transmission oil, you're probably halfway to the price of a new one.
The only place oil can come from is the transmission. If you do not have a big leak, it may run a long time (read: maybe a year or more) before low oil level in the transmission causes major appliance damage, but it's time to start looking for a new washer. Many washers these days do not even use an oil filled transmission. Current GE machines do not, and the Whirlpool models comming soon don't either. If you can afford it, the front loading LG washers (which are direct drive, thus no transmission or clutch, and have a 10 year motor warranty) are the best, in my opinion.
sounds like drain is plugged. this is a fairly easy fix,and you actually get paid to do it. unscrew the bottom panel of your washer should be 3 screws on the very bottom then you will see a white plug that is about 2 1/2" unscrew it (make sure you have a bowl under it water will leak ) and pull it out. this is where you get paid you will find all kinds of change and junk just clean it out reinstall and your clothes will be a lot drier after the spin cycle
You said, My GE
washer is leaking a tan colored oil underneath the unit. I suspect it's
the gear case leaking. How difficult is it to replace the gasket or
seal. I like to fix things and have tools. If the gear oil is leaking this usually means the transmission is shot and on it's way out. It is not cost efficient to have it replaced. 99.9 % of the time you throw it out and buy a new washer. For the cost of the Transmission and the labor. you can buy a new washer. How old is the washer ?
Here is an interesting report I just read!!!!!!!!!!
Repair or replace?
When to pull the plug on your old washer
Typically, you'll also find a troubleshooting section for more-serious problems in the owner's manual.
Should you pay for a repair or buy a new model? The answer depends mostly on the age of your washer, how much you bought it for,and the cost of the repair.
Follow these guidelines:
When a repair makes sense.
If your washer is under warranty or less than four years old , paying for a repair makes sense. Note that washers under warranty might require service from a factory-authorized technician; readers have found them on a par with independent repairers.
When a repair might be a wise choice.
If your washer is out of warranty and is four to seven years old, it might make sense to pay for a repair. Customers generally pay $100 to $200 for a repair. But you might want to buy a new model even at this stage, given that today's models have added features. Higher energy efficiency is another plus: Energy Star-qualified models made after April 28, 2008, are 43 percent more efficient than conventional models built before 2001 and 56 percent more efficient than those built before 1993.
When it pays to replace.
The repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new washer. Data also shows that it doesn't pay to fix a less-expensive washer eight or more years old.
Thanks to better recycling programs, less than 10 percent of washers you replace are likely to end up in a landfill.
Thanks for giving me the opportunity to help!
Please do not forget to give a rating before you sign off!
You would need a transmission (WH38x10002) which comes with a new tub seal, and runs between $150 and $200. Check the back of the owners manual to see if your washer has a five year warranty on the transmission. (newest ones may be only 1 year) They do make a couple special tools which make the repair easier, and an experienced tech can do one in about a half hour, but your first one will take much longer. Motor is most likely just fine.