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Re: U-line 29RBK Repair
First, reset the breaker. If the unit restarts, you're okay. If possible, change to another good circuit of comparable rating...generally at least 15-20 amperes...sometimes the breakers go bad. You may have a bad compressor or compressor start relay. We can only know about that after the breaker is ruled out as a cause. Oh, and be sure the plug contacts are not corroded. If they are: use a little steel wool to clean them and remove all strands when you're done.
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It needs to be determined wether it's a dead short or the compressor is bad. A dead short is when the hot (colored) wire is in contact with the neutral (white) wire in a 120 V system.
I would get to the compressor connection box and disconnect the power from the compressor and turn the circuit breaker on. If it trips, it's a wiring problem. If it doesn't trip, the compressor is shorted internally.
As an alternate test to disconnect the compressor, you can turn the thermostat to off and reset the breaker, if it trips, then it's a wiring problem, if it doesn't trip and as soon as you turn the thermostat to on, then you must go to disconnecting the compressor and check it again with the compressor disconnected.
Other tests, an electrical meter is required.
Most refrigerators draw up to 12 amps on a lock-rotor.. meaning it reached temperature, and turned "off" there needs to be 5 or 10 mins, before the compressor can restart due to hi-pressure inside the condenser . usually you will hear the fan(s) come on, it makes a "click" sound trying to start- that's called a Lock rotor. when People seem to have problems asking about how many Amps. it's because they trip their house breaker. I will assume and respond under that pretext - 1) 15 amps minimum on a dedicated line, means only that item. 2) house breakers weaken over time and will trip - here's how you can tell the difference If your breaker trips the instant you plug in your refrigerator.. 90% probable problem with refrigerator, a short somewhere is causing the breaker to open the circuit . if you plug in, and Refrigs runs for any length of time, and then the breaker trips. The refrigerator is combing it's consumption of Amps, contributing them with something else so together they exceed the rated voltage or you need a new breaker.
Something that powers up immediately, try any cooling fans or the solenoid. Easiest test is just disconnect anything non essential and turn on, if it doesnt trip, turn off, connect one thing and try againn. then connect one by one until it trips again and the last thing you plugged in will be faulty.
Yews you have a short that is causing the tripped breaker. Is this fridge older than 10-12 years old. Is so, you may want tol look at replacing it. It is possible you got water inside the wiring when washing it .
Blue flash sounds like an electrical short (spark) that blew a fuse or tripped a breaker.
Is the machine running? You need to unplug and check the switch that turns the light on and the lamp socket itself for frayed or broken wires befoe restting breaker or replacing fuse. Once your electrical problem is resolved you can reapply power
the breaker [fuse] is not on fridge its in ur breaker [fuse] panel if it not getting power check to see if breaker tripped if power to fridge in freezer section check the fan thats its working and not frozen,blocked,or burnt out if not moving repair or replace and clear any ice or debris in fan chamber[duct]
A refrig cannot pull 40 amps in defrost , unless there is a direct short in the defrost system ( timer , heater , bimetal ) . I would use an extention cord ( for test purposes only ) , and try a different plug . Sounds like the circuit breaker is weak . In defrost , the MOST you should get , is 6 amps . This will not throw a 40 amp breaker . If you have an amp meter , remove the back refrig panel behind the refrig , and connect to one of the power cord lines (just not the green ground ) , turn into defrost and check the amps . This will tell you if short is in refrig , or weak breaker .
a full size refrige has to be on a 20 amp circuit, a 15 amp is just not big enough.. you should also know that this circuit has to be on a 12-2 gauge wire.. I also highly recommend installing a 20 amp HD receptacle
UNPLUG!! CHECK THE RELAY THATS is in the back conected to the compresor if it has a white relay then its proably bad . you can take it off shake it and if it sounds like a salt or pepper shaker .then replace that. but if the compresor keeps on clicking the you have a bad compresor . and it exceeds the cost of the fridge