Question about Dryers
If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
On the dreyr model you have listed, all your heating circuitry is on the rear of the dryer. Just unplug and remove the back panel.
The part number for the TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat replacement kit is 279816. The Heating Element is 279838.
All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.
If you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope you find this information helpful.
NOTE: Although your assessment of a bad heating element is a good one, the TCO usually fails first.
Posted on Oct 04, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
nestor, on the posted model, you want to drop the lower front panel. Take a puddy knife and push in on the clips on each side and it will pull off. Kill the power to the dryer. On the right you will see the heater housing. The housing will have a front deflector. You can remove that deflector by removing the screw on the bottom or simply just bend it down out of the way. Remove the 2 wires on the left that attach to the element itself. On the left side of the housing there will be a quarter inch screw that holds the element in place. Use a small socket set to get it off. Now the element will pull right out of the housing. Sometimes they are difficult to pull out but it will come out. Did you ohm out that element to make sure that was the culprit? Catriver.
Posted on Dec 09, 2007
Before you purchase any more parts, you should have use of a multi meter. If the dryer is not heating at all, and of the following parts could be bad.......Operating (cycling) thermostat, high limit thermostat, thermal fuse, timer, or motor centrifugal switch. All but the motor switch can be easily checked with the dryer UNPLUGGED using the ohms feature of the meter.
Posted on May 03, 2009
Check for lint clogging first. Pull the unit away from the wall and look to see if there is an excessive build up of lint at or near the discharge vent or into the vent line. Clean as needed. If it's really clogged you may have to remove the back cover.
If no joy, then check for a bad thermostat. There should be two. They are located on the discharge vent near the dryer exhaust blower. You will have to remove the back cover of the dryer to get to them. Check the stats for continuity. MAKE SURE the power is off before working on the dryer.
It's much more likely to be on of the two items listed above, but if the dryer isn't clogged and the stats are both good, check the heating element.
Posted on Aug 20, 2010
are you getting power down to the heater?why did you change all those other parts?you need to unplug the dryer,with a meter read out all the parts you changed out again but first make sure you have 240 volts coming to the machine,you can check it at the cord in the back,touch the white to the red,you should have 110 volts or 120,then go from the white to the black and you should have the same thing,if not the problem is in the house,if it's correct make sure you have power coming down to the heater,you could have a bad timer or a burnt wire,when you check the other parts unplug the dryer and whatever part you check at least one wire has to be removed,do this and you'll find your problem,if you did this first you wouldn't of bought all those parts.let me know what you find
Posted on Nov 05, 2010
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