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Remove boards fixed with ring nails

I have chipboard flooring nailed onto floor joists with annular (ring) nails which can't be pulled. I was hoping to cut around the nails using something like a plug cutter so that I can then ''jemmy'' the boards with minimum damage and angle grind off the exposed nails.

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You need to punch these nails through... unless there are thousands surely this is better than a plug cutter? i'd get a nice cheap phillips screwdriver and bust off the resin handle to make a decent large blunt punch.

Posted on Oct 23, 2009

Testimonial: "I had not thought of punching the nail though the 19mm chipboard. I guess that this would be difficult if the nail head were still intact. I'll give i"

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How do I remove a jammed nail in the SHF50?

Hi Al:
Usually nailers are built so that removing jammed nails is an anticipated activity.
make sure the air supply is disconnected from the nailer.
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Now you can have a really close look at the nailer mechanism.
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Hi Paul,

The reason is that you are allowing the nail to "push" you off the wood when the tool fires. Probably you're using a very hard wood with a ring shank (Annular) nail. The best way of overcoming this is to push just a little bit harder down onto the tool before firing.

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What is the strength of a joist hangar for a 2by 8? It has six nails straight in the face board and four through the joist at an angle.

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I have ceramic (terra cotta) block walls in my basement (house was built around 1920. The blocks are ridgid and were not laid very evenly, although the walls are sound. Plastering is an option, but with...

My house is of similar age and construction. I built a nice TV room in the basement several years ago. My method was the same as the way interior walls are built in new construction. I nailed a 2x4 to the ceiling near the wall. I nailed another 2x4 (pressure treated) to the concrete floor directly below the 2x4 on the ceiling. Then I toe-nailed vertical studs in place. For the studs I used 2x3's since this allowed me to get a nice flat plane on the front surface while allowing an inch of space on the back for irregularities of the block wall. I then covered the studs with water resistant drywall. The results were excellent and have held up very well. I also use a dehumidifier, since my basement was somewhat damp. I built the dehumidifier into a cabinet so that it draws air from the space between the block wall and the 2x3 wall. I don't need to run the dehumidifier in the winter. For the interior walls separating the TV room from the rest of the basement (furnace and workshop area) I used 2x4s for the studs, but the 2x4 along the top and bottom were just like the first wall I described. And by the way, in order to nail the pressure treated 2x4 to the floor, I used a power-nailer that uses charges that look like 22 caliber gun blanks. This seems spooky, and is wicked loud (use earplugs and safety glasses!), but it is inexpensive and very effective. The nails don't have to resist pulling out, they only have to resist being slid around, since the wall stud holds the pressure treated 2x4 against the floor. Good luck!

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Hi I moved in to a recently renovated home one year ago. The kitchen had new ceramic tiles installed, with sanded grouted filled in the 5/8 inch joints. I sealed the grout after moving in as I was told...

I have a similar problem. My builder used dimensional lumber for the joists. I asked him if thet would be sufficiently stiff for tile floors, and he said yes. Then after the cracks started, I asked him why the cracks, but he said he didn't know why. It's not necessarily the subfloor but the combination of joists, subfloor, and concrete backer boards under the tile. If you can access the joists under the floor, perhaps you can reinforce them with additional joists or stiffeners before regrouting.
As for me, I have done neither so far. Wife has not complained, so I spend my spare time helping people on FixYa. Like you, I fear regrouting will just lead to recracking, and I no longer have access to the joists. :o(

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Need to replace tub in old travel trailer. any help for removing old one, installing new one and supporting under floor if rotted??

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