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Carrier multi hi wall split a/c

Iam looking for multi split wiring diagram off singel condensing unit with 2 compressors with singal phase contractor.

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I don't have a diagram, but maybe I can help you. You have 2 compressors, o.k. 2 stage system. A single phase contactor? do you mean a single pole, one side breaks, the other is always hot? Speaking of phases, is this a commercial unit with 3 phase? Also, Each compressor needs a separate contactor to carry the load. What is the question?

Posted on Dec 23, 2007

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Shastalaker7
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Hi, if this is just a split standard heating and cooling unit, and not a split heat pump, all you need to do is pull stat wire from the indoor unit control board to control the condenser with 5 conductors, but you will only use 2 wires for the control of the condenser. Normally, the red and white tie to the 2 control wires of the contactor. Back at the control board, red to red and white to the Y or yellow terminal. You will also need to set your disconnect box for your high voltage near the condenser, where you will be coming from your breaker to supply high voltage to run the motors and compressor. Very easy to do. If it is a heat-pump, you will need to pull at least 8 conductor thermostat wire to wire this up. I would also need to know what terminals and kind of thermostat you have, and if you are using heat strips for second stage of heat. When you say standard unit, you will only need 2 control wires from the indoor to the outdoor unit, along with the high voltage. Please keep me posted and let me know if you need more help on this. A wiring schematic wouldn't be needed if its just a standard condenser.
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Shastalaker7
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I have this air conditioning unit where suddenly stops functioning and no power on the indicator. i have thecked the breaker and it is fine and ON with a three phase supply. I've checked the condenser at...


Hi, I will see if I can give you some idea of what may be happening. I work on these on a day to day basis. So, you have a split system with the condensing unit on the roof, or a package unit on the roof? Sounds to me it is the first one.So, you are telling me that the power supply at breaker below is OK, but you should have a power box at the condenser on the roof. When you reset power to the condenser, that's when you here this blast sound? To me from just hearing what you are saying , it would be the sound of the compressor trying to start up, and it has a internal problem making this noise. Tell me, when it makes this noise, does it trip the breaker again? If so, it is definatley the compressor. You can prove this if you are inclined to do this, is to find the 3 different wires going to compressor, and make sure power is off 1st. Disconnect them at the Contactor or remove the plastc cover from compressor and write down which wire goes to each terminal.Tape the ends so they dont touch metal. Turn the condenser back on and see if this blast is gone. If so, the compressor is dead and you will need a new one.You say you have 3 phase power? This is unusuall for a residential unit, 3 phase units are for comercial unit power. They dont use starting componants like Run or start caps because they have enough power to do the job.3 phase would have 3 hot legs of equal voltage unless it was the older 3 phase which will have a stinger leg with higher voltage then the 2 other legs.Maybe this is a commercial a/c. Also, the compressor is reversable on a 3 phase unit by moving 2 of the 3 wires on the load side of the box, like T-2 and T-3. If these are switched if the compressor is locked up, sometimes you can get lucky and break it loose.Please don't do this, I am just explaining to you a little about 3 phase. Try this so you can elimanate the compressor. The only other thing it could be, if this is a gas pack and you are starting the heat, you can be getting blow back premature combustion? But I don't think this is what you have. It has to be the compressor.So, lets prove it by taking it out of the circuit. all should hold and no noise.Still, a faulty compressor is not a good thing. Let me no. Best of Luck and safety first.
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That is a fairly large difference. It is usually ok to have the inside evap. coil and blower up to 1 ton larger than the outside condenser. That will make the unit slightly more efficient as well as less likely to freeze up on low airflow situations. It is not recommended to install a new condenser on an old evap coil. There has been a lot of changes to the design of the coils in the last little while. For example a 10 year old 2 ton coil may only have 3 cubic feet of volume but a new 2 ton coil may have 4 cubit feet of volume.

There are many factors that may have infulenced the decision on what size condenser to install. Many of which can only be done by visiting the home and doing alot of work, checking the duct sizing bioth supply and return, inspecting the insulation and windows of the home etc. etc. Most of the time that never gets done. You can blame the contractor for not doing a complete check, but at the same time you can blame the customer because many contractors that are that good loose the job to a cheaper bid that did not no any of the research. It is a catch 22 for everyone involved.

There is ALOT more to sizing equipment that many people think, sadly that also includes many HVAC contractors. Way too many people use "rule of thumbs" or flat out "guess".

Sorry for the rant but your queston can only be answered by a good well educated HVAC contractor visiting your home. That type of a contractor is getting hard to find these days in such a price competetive world.

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