Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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Machine won't start - is it the control panel

We've had a repairman over who says we need a new control panel, which is going to cost almost $600 to buy and install. The machine is probably 6 years old. Is this something that tends to happen to these machines? I'd rather do that than replace the machine, which will cost double that. Curious to here other experiences.

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Geez
Thats an expensive part http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-Kenmore+Elite+45986+Front+Load+Washer%3f-%3d%3dc212i1060952&PartID=1060952

This site has it for $105 and you could probably get a local repair person to do it for around $100

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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When youn push button to start it says F1 what does that mean ??


The F01 error code indicates a primary control failure and more than likely the machine control (p/n W10174746) will need to be replaced. Parts can be purchased from Sears PartsDirect.

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This advice is for Kenmore Elite, Whirlpool Duet and Maytag Epic model FRONT LOADING washing machines. If you experience a problem where the washer does not drain properly or the drain pump makes excessive noise, here’s the information you need to check the drain pump:

  1. Unplug the washer while servicing inside the unit.
  2. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by removing the three 7mm screws under the bottom edge of the panel. HINT: Use a couple of blocks of wood to prop up the front feet of the washer to gain better access to the screws. Once the screws are removed the panel should drop down, and then pull off. If the panel becomes stuck, a slight tap on either side will dislodge it.
  3. Locate the drain pump. It will be located directly under the wash tub (it is the only pump this washer has).
  4. There is an access removal cover on the pump that can be removed to clean out the trap. BEFORE doing this, it is strongly recommended that you remove all residual water from the wash tub & drain line or you will have about a gallon or so inside your washer and on the floor to clean up.
  5. Here’s a helpful way of quickly removing the residual water. If you own a wet/dry shop vac, remove the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum with the shop vac. This will empty the wash tub, pump and drain lines. If you don’t own a shop vac, grab a bunch of old towels and open the access on the pump slowly so that it comes out at a trickle. Allow the towels to soak up the majority of the water. Close the access and stop the water if you need to get additional towels.
  6. Open the pump access and remove once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there’s nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.
  7. Clean out the pump thoroughly and reinstall the access cover. Make sure the cover is snug, but do not over tighten.
  8. Place the drain hose back in the standpipe (IMPORTANT – DO NOT FORGET!).
  9. With the bottom panel still off, plug the washer back in and select the following on the operator console – DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN, and then press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the same button). “C00” will show on the console display as the washer begins diagnostics mode.
  10. Check the drain pump for leaks as the washer fills. The pump is gravity filled and will hold water even it is not pumping. Allow washer to run through diagnostics until it begins the wash tub tumble cycle.
  11. At this point, you can stop the diagnostics procedure by pressing PAUSE/CANCEL 2 times. The drain pump energizes and the washer will begin to drain.
  12. If the drain pump works normal and there are no leaks detected, reinstall the bottom panel and tighten screws.

NOTE: It is normal to have residual water left inside the wash tub under the wash basket. This is why it is important to leave the door ajar when not in use so this water does not become sour.

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1 Answer

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My two year old unit would not do anything, but lights on. Then they would go off, and nothing but opening the door would get them on again. Replaced electronic panel in Feb. 2008, under warranty, still cost $80. Worked until first of June, 2008. Ordered a new panel. Repairman suggested that the wall outlet may be defective, even though the lights were on. The Unit also would have the lights come on by themselves. Outlet replaced, dryer worked fine. We still replaced the panel board, as repairman was not sure exactly what was the problem. I was told that the panel costs about $300.

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