Led says pressure switch stuck open. I notice leak on back of switch by power prongs. could that cause the switch not to shut because lack of pressure inside to be able shut? If so can it be sealed with a little R.S.V?
Re: led says pressure switch stuck open.i notice leak
These switches are not servicable, however you need to confirm that the flue is free from obstruction (ice, snow, critters, bird nests, etc.). Also, confirm that the inducer motor is running. If you see water leaking from the switch pull the black tubing off and let any condensation or water drain out. They can trap water occasionally which will keep the switch from pulling in.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
They are listed inside the front panel of the main unit. LED CODE
EACH OF THE FOLLOWING STATUS CODES IS A TWO DIGIT NUMBER WITH THE FIRST DIGIT DETERMINED BY THE NUMBER OF SHORT FLASHES AND THE SECOND DIGIT BY THE NUMBER OF LONG FLASHES. STATUS
11 NO PREVIOUS CODE - Stored status code is erased automatically after 72 hours. On RED LED boards stored status codes can also be erased when power (115 VAC or 24 VAC) to control is interrupted. 12 BLOWER ON AFTER POWER UP (115 VAC or 24 VAC) -Blower runs for 90 seconds, if unit is powered up during a call for heat (R-W closed) or R-W opens during blower on-delay. 13 LIMIT CIRCUIT LOCKOUT - Lockout occurs if the limit or flame rollout switch is open longer than 3 minutes. - Control will auto reset after three hours. - Refer to #33. 14 IGNITION LOCKOUT - Control will auto-reset after three hours. Refer to #34. 21 GAS HEATING LOCKOUT - Control will NOT auto reset. Check for: - Mis-wired gas valve -Defective control (valve relay) 22 ABNORMAL FLAME-PROVING SIGNAL - Flame is proved while gas valve is de-energized. Inducer will run until fault is cleared. Check for: - Leaky gas valve - Stuck-open gas valve 23 PRESSURE SWITCH DID NOT OPEN Check for: - Obstructed pressure tubing. - Pressure switch stuck closed. 24 SECONDARY VOLTAGE FUSE IS OPEN Check for: - Short circuit in secondary voltage (24VAC) wiring. 31 PRESSURE SWITCH DID NOT CLOSE OR REOPENED - If open longer than five minutes, inducer shuts off for 15 minutes before retry. Check for: - Excessive wind - Proper vent sizing - Defective inducer motor - Low inducer voltage (115VAC) - Defective pressure switch - Inadequate combustion air supply - Restricted vent - Disconnected or obstructed pressure tubing - Low inlet gas pressure (if LGPS used) If it opens during blower on-delay period, blower will come on for the selected blower off-delay. 33 LIMIT CIRCUIT FAULT - Indicates a limit, or flame rollout is open. Blower will run for 4 minutes or until open switch remakes whichever is longer. If open longer than 3 minutes, code changes to lockout #13. If open less than 3 minutes status code #33 continues to flash until blower shuts off. Flame rollout switch requires manual reset. Check for: - Restricted vent - Proper vent sizing - Loose blower wheel - Excessive wind - Dirty filter or restricted duct system. - Defective blower motor or capacitor. - Defective switch or connections. - Inadequate combustion air supply (Flame Roll-out Switch open). 34 IGNITION PROVING FAILURE - Control will try three more times before lockout #14 occurs. If flame signal lost during blower on-delay period, blower will come on for the selected blower off-delay. Check for: - Control ground continuity - Flame sensor must not be grounded - Oxide buildup on flame sensor (clean with fine steel wool). - Proper flame sense microamps (.5 microamps D.C. min., 4.0 - 6.0 nominal). - Gas valve defective or gas valve turned off - Manual valve shut-off - Defective Hot Surface Ignitor - Low inlet gas pressure - Inadequate flame carryover or rough ignition - Green/Yellow wire MUST be connected to furnace sheet metal 45 CONTROL CIRCUITRY LOCKOUT Auto-reset after one hour lockout due to; - Gas valve relay stuck open - Flame sense circuit failure - Software check error Reset power to clear lockout. Replace control if status code repeats. If status code recall is needed, briefly remove then reconnect one main limit wire to display stored status code. On RED LED boards do not remove power or blower door before initiatingstatus code recall. After one status code recall is completed component test will occur.
WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur waterpressure switch?
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.
Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open.
Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually.
# 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch.
(where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open.
.
The other item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board. You can also do a live volt test to see if it is getting the full 120 current, but be sure to unplug unit before testing as this is a live test.
Also another trick to check the water valve, is to first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed
I suspect ur water pressure switch and also check ur water inlet valve.
No water? Or wash agitation or spin? try these:
WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur waterpressure switch?
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.
Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open.
Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually.
# 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch.
(where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open.
.
use a multi meter and check ur waterpressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle?
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( If No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.
Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open.
Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually.
# 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch.
(where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open.
.
If both check ok then next CHECK the motor coupler (a bad couplercan be checked by looking under the machine and taking note if there is a black residue on floor, look at coupler located between the motor and tranny, and see if it is broken up or missing any parts? Try to turn shaft by hand and notice if it does not engage tub? ) or belt if belt driven. Check for loose, broken or worn belt .
Then check the door switch with a multi meter for continuity OHMS when door closed and infinity when door is opened , and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator.
This condition will occur when the in-tank check valve is stuck open. Pressure from the tank increases load on the motor by flooding the pump with tank pressure not allowing motor to start thus reset opens. Easy test. Run compressor for one minute then unplug cord from wall. Remove hose at the check valve and test for leak with soapy water. If leaking remove valve and attempt cleaning or replace with generic valve. Cost about $20. Good luck.
Error Codes A green LED indicates system faults Steady On: System OK Steady OFF: Board control fault or no power applied 1 Flash: Ignition failure (control in one-hour lockout) 2 Flashes: Pressure switch fault, fails open (switch is stuck open) 3 Flashes: Limit switch open (main or auxiliary) 4 Flashes: Pressure switch fault, fails closed (switch is stuck closed) A yellow LED indicates flame status Steady on: Normal flame is sensed Flashes: As flame weakens, frequency of LED flashes increases hope this is helpful.
That thang might be sensing a lazy flame. In other words the flames took too long in the board's opinion to quit sensing the flame. Yall probably need to do pressure tap on the gas valve. Here is a realistic look at goodman fault codes and what to check fer and I am assuming you are not a tech and don't know this already and am hoping it helps:
Read one LED flash that stays on continuously to mean your furnace has no signal coming from the thermostat and will not operate. Turn the power off and check the thermostat for improper settings or connections.
Interpret one LED flash that blinks on and off to mean your furnace has locked out because it could not ignite after three tries, and must be reset. Interrupt power to your furnace for 20 seconds or lower the thermostat so your furnace does not try to heat, then reset the thermostat to the previous setting. After one hour of lockout, your furnace will automatically reset itself and try to operate as usual.
Decipher two LED flashes to mean the draft blower is not working, or your furnace has a short in the pressure switch circuit. Turn off the furnace power and repair a short or replace the pressure switch.
Read three LED flashes to mean your furnace has an open pressure switch circuit or it has an induced draft blower operating. Check the pressure switch hose of your furnace for blocks or an improper connection. Also, look for blockages in the flue, and tighten any loose wiring.
Translate four LED flashes to mean your furnace has a primary limit circuit open, possibly from loose wiring or blocked filters. Check and clean filters, tighten wiring and check the flue for blockages.
Interpret five LED flashes to mean your furnace senses a flame without a call for heat. This could be from a gas valve closing slowly or a burner flame lingering.
Read seven LED flashes as a warning of a low flame sense microamp signal. This could happen with a coated flame sensor or a lazy flame from poor gas pressure. Turn off the power and adjust the gas pressure according to the information on the rating plate.
See eight LED flashes as meaning an igniter circuit problem due to a bad igniter or an igniter connected improperly. Replace the bad igniter or check the ground wiring, making necessary corrections.
Decipher nine LED flashes to mean the high-stage pressure switch circuit will not close during a high-stage-induced draft blower operation. Your furnace may have a pinched or blocked pressure switch hose, a blocked flue or loose wiring.
Read continuous flashing on the LED to mean your furnace has a reversed polarity of 115 volts. Turn off the power and correct the wiring polarity after reviewing the wiring diagram.
Now here is how it should all go down:
Bottom dollar: it all goes back to type of gas, the initial setup, the pressure tap. and how it is wired up to begin with. This will give you an idea where to start I hope.
Error Codes
A green LED indicates system faults
Steady On: System OK
Steady OFF: Board control fault or no power applied
1 Flash: Ignition failure (control in one-hour lockout)
2 Flashes: Pressure switch fault, fails open (switch is
stuck open)
3 Flashes: Limit switch open (main or auxiliary)
4 Flashes: Pressure switch fault, fails closed (switch is
stuck closed)
A yellow LED indicates flame status
Steady on: Normal flame is sensed
Flashes: As flame weakens, frequency of LED flashes
increases
×