I have a problem with the switch. The motor stopped in mid-grind. I dismantled. There are two springy contacts. One makes contact when the switch slider "wedge" pushes it. The other doesn't seem to be connected to anything. An ohm meters shows that both contacts have to be made before the motor draws current.
1) What is the purpose of the second spring contact - opposite the one driven by the switch? Should it be hooked behind the terminal so that it makes permanent contact?
2) How should the small, transparent plastic wedge be ortiented? If shifts when I screw the unit back together..
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Re: I have a problem with the switch. KSM2
It is good to repair the switch but it is best to have it replaced. You may be able to repair it but the problem will probably recur. However, you are in the best position to resolve the solution either to repair or replace the switch.
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both stuck mid glass?, not stuck running endless when off,?
that means the auto park switches in the wiper motor guts are bad.
when you turn them on the motor self runs,
the runs until the keep alive contact cam reaches the end
ad self turns off in park.
that cam fails on all 1988, its old. and hopeless that old.
if you had dismantled it youd see DAMAGE on the cam contacts or the wiper brush to it.
Yes, unscrew the blade, inspect for any gummy material, hair or any other material that might cause it to slow down, remove it,, and replace the blade. If that doesn't solve the problem, you'll have to diss-assemble the grinder, check the carbon brushes to the motor, to see if they are very worn, replace if necessary and after a complete inspection of the motor, shaft, etc, re-assemble the machine. That should do the trick.
if it makes a grinding sound when in spin this is the tub seals or bearing and basically you'll have to replace the washer.very common with this ge washer,not one of ge's best product,also why it stops mid cycle could be anything,this washer has a computer board biult on top of the motor that also failed,if your having all these issues i think that washer sold for like 500 dollars,it would cost more just to repair it,i wouldn't put 5 cents into it,do yourself a favor and get a new washer.
There is no plastic nut, it's all one piece of plastic. You need to replace the blade. If you Google KSM2 replacement blade, you'll see who's selling it. Or if you have small appliance repair shops in your community, they may have it. I just bought one a few days ago.
First, I'm not a Baratza tech, but I have worked on commercial grinders. You should contact your vendor for service.
*** The following is for information only ***
* check on line for your model parts manual. The diagrams will help you identify the parts needed and should provide instructions on replacing/cleaning the burrs.
* As you've figured out, cleaning with rice is not a good idea.
* Burr plates do get dull and needs to be replaced. Longer grind times and frequent adjustments to get finer grinds is an indication of dull plates.
* The oil in the beans used gets caked up under and on the sides of the burr plates.
* Heavy usage and long grind times will melt the oils and fill every part of the burr chamber and even get into the motor and bearings. I've found oil in the on/off switches and rotary switches.
* The burr plates must be removed and chamber cleaned of all oil residue and beans (rice too). Use a vacuum cleaner and stiff brush to clean. Do not use water or any liquids in the burr chamber. You can clean the burrs in wash water once it's removed from equipment. Dry thoroughly before reinstalling.
* The motor should turn freely by hand (no power!) with nothing hitting the sides or under the plate. If it's difficult to turn or makes grinding or whirling noise. Then the lower plate needs to be removed and cleaned. The motor bearings will need to be replaced if the motor does not turn at all.
* Once cleaned and assembled(without any beans) Power up and check the operation. You should have a motor hum without any clanking or screeching (metal rubbing metal) sounds. Stop and power down if you do. Motor bearings are bad.
* If you get nothing then check the switches. Oil probably got in them. Replace.
* Runs okay? Then set the grinder to a large setting (like drip coffee; Turn on and allow to run while you drop some whole beans into the hopper. Use 1/4 cup or less. This should grind through smoothly.
* Placing another 1/4 cup of whole beans. Turn on grinder again. Just hums without grinding? Power down. Replace motor starter capacitor.
* The capacitor is round and usually attached to the motor like a 'hump' on the side or near the top. If you didn't take it apart then one of the wires in the switching side may be miss wired or loose. Check both for loose and correct wired. Careful around the capacitor as it may still have a charge! The capacitor is used to kick start the motor with it's heavy burr plates.
* If your still having problems with low power. Check the motor for burnt smell as you may have overheated and fried the motor. They usually have thermal resets, but if you kept forcing the reset to keep grinding then the motor is defiantly burnt out.
* Final; if everything is working but your not getting the fine grind setting (you should at least get espresso setting but not turkish) then the burrs are gone. It will only be good for drip coffee.
PS I found a cute video on how to clean the burrs (frequent cleaning)
Trying to fix the problem is complicated and would require pics and step by step disassembly? Athe simplest way would be to pick up a switch at a hardware store and put it in line. They are used most commonly for lamps but work well on these small motors.
Sounds like dosage is too high and grind is too fine.
Rule of thumb with any saeco unit.
Do not grind any finer then 2 or your looking for trouble.
Open grinder, clean it out with a vac. Slapped it back on.
The reason it stops is grind is too fine, and the machine doesn't have enough pressure to pass threw the grinds, creates back pressure in the machine and the unit failsafes after a certain amount of time with and pressure.