a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hi, Nelson if you have a dash or instrument light that is out and you have confirmed that the bulb is good then you need to do some quick diagnostics all you need is a test light and a wiring diagram usually found in the back of your service or owners manual.
1. Make sure your battery is fully charged with "CLEAN" and "TIGHT" connections and the instrument light fuse is not blown.
2. Inspect the bulb socket for corrosion and clean as necessary, a spray can of electrical contact cleaner and compressed air works the best.
3. Confirm your test light is working properly by connecting one end to the battery negative post and touching battery positive post with the sharp probe, the test light should illuminate.
4. With the ignition turned on to confirm you have power to the bulb socket by connecting your test light to battery negative or ground and probe the center contact, the test light should illuminate if not you need to check the integrity of the switch or sending unit the light represents, if that is ok then you have a short in the wiring between the component and the light bulb, if all is ok proceed to the next step.
5. Confirm you have a good ground to the light bulb socket by connecting the test light to battery positive and probe any metal part of the socket housing, the test light should illuminate, if not you need to find the short and repair as necessary.
6. Inspect the integrity of the spring loaded positive contact insulation tab by pushing against it with your test light to see if it goes down and springs back fully to it's operating position again contact cleaner and compressed air works best to restore proper function.
7. If your bike has a lot of mileage the vibration can cause bulbs to become loose in the socket by wearing down the soldered contact thus loosing spring pressure from the tab and eventually stop making contact this can be fixed by replacing the bulb or putting a drop of solder on the worn out end to ensure contact.
8. If all of your dash lights are out but are good then you most likely have a faulty connection to the dash wiring harness, inspect the connector for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Yamaha Star Dragstar XVS 1100 dashboard backup fuse review http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/49-v-star/50018-brake-lights-not-working.html Yamaha star 1100 Owner Manual OEM parts for Yamaha Yamaha XVS1100 Service Manual
FLASHLIGHT BATTERY INSTALLATION FOR TORCH: Open the Torch Battery Door located on the bottom of the Torch. Insert 4 “A A” (1 .5V UM-3) (not included) batteries (alkaline batteries are recommended) into the torch compartment. Be sure the polarity (+ and -) matches, as marked inside the battery compartment. FLASHLIGHT: Slide the Torch Function Switch to the “FLASH” position, the Torch will light. To turn off, slide the Torch Function Switch to the “OFF’ position. FLASH/BLINK FUNCTION: Slide the Torch Function Switch to “FLASH/BLINK” position, tha Torch will light and thc bulbs on both sides of Torch will blink. BULB REPLACEMENT: Rotate the Torch Cover anticlockwise to hear “click” then pull out the cover, remove the old bulb. Then pull out the torch cup, remove the blinker’s old bulbs and reinstall new bulbs. Replace the torch cup, then reinstall a new bulb. Replace the Torch Cover.
Most of the time when an engine backfires it is due to the timing being off or there is a severe vacuum leak at the intake manifold. You can locate the leak (vacuum) by taking a propane torch (DO NOT LIGHT!!) Open torch valve (1/4 turn) And slowly take torch around intake manifold. Wherever torch is and causes increase in R P M's There is where your leak is. Hope this helps
Hi, Sherman884 nice novella before diagnosing your blown fuse issue check the bottom of your seat if it's metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom etc.) also you are going to need a wiring from your service manual a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses. If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
If the main fuse/circuit breaker constantly blows/trips while riding you probably have a faulty battery terminal connection. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Any other fuses that constantly keep blowing while riding are usually caused by a loose or corroded ground wire in the circuit, which means you have to check, inspect, test each and everyone with and ohm meter set on a low ohm scale 100 ohms or less . Simply touch one lead to the ground source and the other lead to the battery negative terminal, a reading of zero indicates a clean solid ground. Any number reading or infinity indicates a poor ground and needs to be repaired. Poor or weak grounds require excessive additional amperage to complete the circuit which in turn blows the small amperage fuse. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Motorcycle Message Board Motorcycle USA main fuse keeps blowing Honda VF1000F 1985 Shop Manual Page 2 http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda http://mybikemanuals.com/honda/honda-vf-owners-manuals