Question about Poulan WeedEater Hedge Trimmer 25cc Engine

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It keeps stalling after only a few minures

It keeps stalling after only a few minutes (5-10) of run time. Then it won't start again unless the engine is cold. Once engine is cold, it starts briefly and then stalls again

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Suspect Ignition Coil is failing under heat.
To test this, take the unit outdoors and have a fire extinguisher handy. Start and allow unit to run until it shuts down. Then remove spark plug and test for spark by grounding the outer shell of the plug on the engine's metal surface.

Keep your face away from the spark plug hole as you pull the rope to test for spark. Expelled fuel or vapors can ignite via the removed spark plug or any subsequent arc.

If no spark when hot, and good spark when cold, replace ignition coil.
Find your EXACT model number on your unit, then go HERE to lookup the part number of the coil. Call your local reputable repair shop and ask if they have it in stock or can order for you.
Hope this helps.

Posted on Oct 04, 2009


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It will crank and run good for 10 minutes and shut off. Once it shuts off when you restart it, it will only run for a couple of minutes and shut off again ?

I would start by getting a can of carburetor cleaner and have it 'at the ready' and try the 'start, run stall, start run stall' operation again. Only THIS time, once the engine begins to stall, give it a couple of quick shots of the cleaner into the air filter to see if it stays running on the cleaner.

If it does, then it's still a fuel problem. If it doesn't, then it probably an ignition problem. I would be sort of leaning towards the ignition coil getting weak. The reason I'm saying that is your statement about it running (I'm assuming cold start) for at first, 10 minutes then it stalls. Start it again and it runs for a couple of minutes and stalls again.

This could possibly be from the coil getting warm/hot and not producing the needed spark. After a 10 minute run it simply gets too hot and stalls the engine. After the next restart, the coil is already warm from the engine and so it don't take as long for the coil to get hot and stall the engine again.

Hope this makes sense and helps you out.

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Hi. It would be useful to get a code read and some live data from a decent diagnostic tool. There are quite a few possible causes including, pressure in tank - if the fuel tank can't vent pressure then a vacuum will eventually form stopping fuel getting to the engine, this will cause it to loose power and stall. Then after a few mins the pressure will drop and the process start again, easy test is when the car stalls remove filler cap - if that's the fault there will be an audible hiss and the car will start up again.

part blocked exhaust will have same problems but will more generally cause a lack of power and acceleration.
are there other symptoms? i.e only when conering or only when pulling off or stopping, engine light on/off. Jon

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You have to find the reason the check engine light is on. This will aid in diagnostics. Also, are you buying fuel at the same place both times?

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Car loses power for short time after normal running and cooling down for ten minutes

sounds to be symptomatic of a CTS (coolant temperature sensor). there are two, one is for the interior temp gauge, the other is for the ECU/PCM while both are basicalty the same part, often even the same P/N, they both do extremely different things.

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1997 subaru Impreza sport won't stay running . stalls after minute replaced Fuel pump,filter spark plugs wires ,cleaned injectors checked fuel pressure what next

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Car stalls at low idle stop. Can't restart until it sits 5-10 minures/

I have had this same problem before, and it was solved when my live in, admitted dropping a rather large diameter lipstick just after removing the gas cap. She couldn't find the dropped stick, and assumed it had rolled out of sight, because what are the odds of it just hitting the open hole, let alone going on in? lol

If your fill spout does not have an obstruction, I would suggest you try not pushing the gas nozzle all the way down into the filler neck? You can hang the end of the nozzle from the last 2 or 3 wire rings around the nozzles exterior, with out it falling, but don't leave it unattended.

If this does not help, then I'm at a loss, except for the vent line which allows the gas tank to breath, and it is located about 8" down the filler neck, where it tees off to travel a little ways into a reclamation canister. But if it were clogged, I don't think your engine wouldn't run very long, at least not very smoothly. Another symptom would be it slowing down, and stalling or missing, until it would finally quit after a few miles because the vacuum or vapor lock. After a few minutes, it could then start back up and seem to run fine (for a little while) but after a few miles it would repeat the cycle, over and over.

These symptoms are also caused by a clogged fuel filter located just under the inlet fitting, that is screwed into the carburator body. Even though you may be able to hold the filter or screen up in the sun light and see light trough it, it can still be clogged. They don't cost more than $5.00 so I would just replace it, from the start, and eliminate that possibility. This filter has proven the culprit, and more than 2 occasions. Hope this helps.

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1994 chevy pick up c1500 stalled out while I was driving

This stalling is fuel related issue.When the fuel flow becomes low, the engine ask for fuel.But fuel pump does not send required fuel and engine stalls.In some cases, it stall then dies after stalling for few minutes.In some cases, if stalls for few seconds or minutes, then again get required fuel , as you accelerate more and engine starts/runs normally.But once this problem is started and it repeats again n again.This is indication f low fuel pressure.Get the fuel pressure checked and replace fuel pump and fuel filter.-----------

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This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

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Try this:
The next time it begins to stall, loosen the gas cap.
If the engine runs smoothly, you have to clear the vent holes in the fuel cap.

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