Question about Necchi 4575 Mechanical Sewing Machine

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I am hemming blue jeans. The top stitch looks good, but the bottom stitch is very crooked, and the top thread shows on the bottom. Also the bottom thread gets stuck, makes wads of thread, and prevents the needle from going up and down. Help, please!

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  • Necchi Master
  • 1,388 Answers

Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.
Specific detail on bobbin case adjustment (with picture) near halfway down reply, the remainder will help you achieve a balance of top and bottom tensions.

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.

The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

I am hemming blue jeans.  The top stitch looks - 4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks

Best Wishes
Martyn
Bargain Box in Australia

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

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Sewing jeans hems


You need a couple of things. One is to flatten the seams before you try to sew them. One of the best is to spread the hems on a wooden cutting board or simiilar smooth surface and beat the hems flat with a flat faced hammer. This is an official sewing hammer: http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/tools_and_supplies/ and it will compress the fabric so it doesn't lift your presser foot up and let the tension off the top thread (which is what's causing your looping problem).

For crossing thick seams, you need a shim to keep the presser foot flat while sewing. These are usually called hump jumpers or jean-a-majigs, and are a couple of bucks. Or you can use a fold of fabric in the same way: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbYenXIDaDk http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKdW_vIZLBo

Alternatively, you can do the jeans hem alteration that pros will charge you more for (because it's "fashionable"), and it's also faster and easier. Often called Euro-hemming: http://www.sewmuchado.com/2011/06/tutorial-how-to-hem-jeans-and-keep-the-original-hem.html

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I'm trying to sew jeans hem and stitches are uneven on top and loops are showing underneath. Also the foot and needle will not sew over cross seams and thread keeps getting snarled up underneath. Tha


a lot of machines struggle with denim because it is such a heavy and dense textile. Many domestic machines won't stitch it at all due to this. Things you can try however:
  • Denim needle, this has a deeper groove at the back and is a heavy gauge needle, or use size 110 if you don't have denim needle.
  • Bash the side seams with a hammer in the area you will be stitching, to soften up the fibres.
  • Use a seam jumper, this is a piece of plastic to put in back of the presser foot as you approach a cross seam to help keep the presser foot pressure even across the fabric. Sometimes called a "thingy-a-jean" or similar.
  • Don't bother trying to use the heavy gauge yellow jean thread unless you put it through the bobbin and sew with the right side down. But even then, many machines can't handle having this heavy thread underneath and the regular 50 cotton on top, my Janome 1600 won't do it.
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Personally, I never bother with the twice turned hem on denim if shortening, I just overlock the raw edge, turn up 1 cm and stitch around in a matching blue thread so it is seen as little as possible.

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Why won't my Bernina Activa 140 sew the blind hem stitch?


Are you absolutley sure you're not getting a problem with stitch formation on, for example, wide zig-zag. Check again, using a different colour top and bottom and make sure that the stitch is being formed properly with only the top colour on top and bottom colour on the bottom. It sounds as though the bottom loop is not being picked-up by the hook properly. Make sure you've thoroughly cleaned-out any fluff under the stitch-plate and remove the hook/shuttle and give the hook race a good clean and give it a single drop of oil, even if you've got the lightweight part-plastic hook/shuttle fitted.

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How do I create a rolled hem with this machine. I see the stitch width knob, but do I need to remove one of the threads for this?


Making a rolled hem on any overlocker is achieved in the following way:

use right hand needle only and top and bottom loopers. Turn stitch length down so threads are closed up (on mine this is 0.5). Your stitch length dial will be one on the right hand side near the flywheel usually. Loosen off the the top looper tension and tighten up the bottom looper tension (these are the right and 2nd right tension dials on front of the machine). On my Bernette I leave the needle at the usual 5, 2 on the top looper and 6.5 to 7 on the bottom looper thread. Move cutting blade position to the right so that you are trimming the fabric quite a bit wider than your stitch, this makes the fabric "roll" underneath inside the stitching to form the rolled edge or hem.

There is also another step that needs to happen where you change or remove a little stitch finger that sits in the pressure foot or just under it. On the Bernettes, you flick a lever to move this stitch finger back towards the operator so it is out of the stitch forming area. On some machines, it is a case of changing the little stitch finger which is screwed onto the pressure foot with a screwdriver.

I really don't know with your Necchi which it is but have a good look at the pressure foot, and around the blade cutting area and see if you can see a lever or check out the accessory bag and see if there is another stitch finger in there, it would be smaller than the one on the foot now. In effect, this finger sits out and the threads wrap around it to form your normal overlock but for rolled hem you want a much smaller finger in place to make a very little seam.

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I hope this gets you going with your overlocker, I usually test stitch quite a bit with the stitch length at the normal 2.5 setting and adjust the looper tensions until I've got the stitch looking good, then turn it down to the very close 0.5, just to not waste a ton of thread.

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Hi! Sounds like you're doing everything right to me, so let's see.

By not getting a straight stitch on the bottom, do you mean that the bobbin thread is loopy? If so, then most likely you have to reset the tension. Get a scrap of jeans material and practice on that....it would be great if you could use different color threads on top and in the bobbin, but that might not be practical if you don't have the jeans thread in different colors already.

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4. Make sure all the screws etc on your throat plate (also called needle plate) are tight. (I've had mine get loose and that will definitely throw a knock into the works!)

Check out these ideas and let me know if anything works, or if the problem is still there, ok?

Happy Sewing!

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Check that the bobbin is threaded and installed correctly.

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