Question about Refrigerators
There is one compressor that serves both the freezer and refridgerator compartments. You need to confirm if the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment is working. When you open the door to the freezer, you should see and hear the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment running. Particularly if there is a demand on the unit through the thermostat setting. If the evaporator fan is not operating, you can check the evaporator fan motor with a volt meter to see if it's getting power. If its getting voltage, but not operating, you need to replace the evaporator fan motor in the freezer compartment. There are 3 wires that attach to the evaporator fan motor. One hot wire, one neutral wire and one ground wire. The ground wire is usually marked green, the voltage wire is usually marked black and the common wire is usually marked white. You should get a reading on your volt meter of a voltage from the hot post to the neutral or from the hot to the ground. If it is getting power but will not operate, then it is definitely a bad fan motor that would need to be replaced.
Posted on Oct 04, 2009
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like a defrost problem. Check to see if
there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not
defrosting as it should.
Posted on Jun 28, 2008
SOURCE: kenmore sideby side fridge
You have a defrost system problem. Defrost is controlled by a timer which energizes the heater circuit. The heater circuit has a radiant or cal rod type heater which melts the frost from the coil. When the coil reaches a temperature where all ice would be gone a termination switch opens and shuts of the heater. The timer will continue to run until defrost time expires (18-22 minutes).
If you can locate the timer there is a clutch head screw to advance the timer to the defrost position. Turn the screw clockwise SLOWLY until you hear one audible click. The heaters should come on and defrost take place. If the unit restarts after the 18-22 minute period the timer is good, if it does not restart advance the screw to a second audible click and it will restart.
If you had to turn the timer the to second click to get it started cooling replace the timer.
If the unit restarted after the 18-22 minutes and defrost did not happen your problem is in the heater circuit. This would be an open heater or bad defrost terminator switch. To access the heater and defrost terminator the back panel in the freezer section must be removed. With an Ohm meter you can check the heater to see if it is good.
Posted on Jul 02, 2008
SOURCE: freezer cold but not fridge
too much ice bulid up will stop enough cold air being blown into the fridge.Try turning it off letting all ice melt then turn it back on again and set thermostat at a lower temp.There may be ice you can't see.
Posted on Oct 08, 2008
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...
Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.
After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.
There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?
If this has been helpful, please don't forget to rate my solution. Thanks!
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 15, 2013 | Refrigerators
Aug 17, 2011 | Refrigerators
Mar 15, 2011 | Westinghouse Refrigerators
Jan 16, 2011 | Refrigerators
Feb 05, 2010 | Engel Freezer 22 Qt. Fridge/Freezer
Aug 12, 2008 | Refrigerators
Oct 04, 2007 | Hotpoint HTS20GCNWW / HTS20GCNCC Top...
Sep 11, 2006 | LG LRTN19320 Top Freezer Refrigerator
472 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: