Question about Bosch 24 in. SHU43 Built-in Dishwasher

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Bosch aquasensor dishwasher is stuck on 2 hrs on display. seems to be operating but water is not hot.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 409 Answers

SOURCE: Bosch Exxcel Dishwasher operating instructions

hi there,

can you supply the complete model # for me and also an e-mail address and i will e-mail you the pdf file.

thanks

Posted on Sep 25, 2008

  • 21 Answers

SOURCE: Bosch SHU 6800 Water hot at sink only luke warm at the washer

BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by
pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “20” = version 0 without jumper). When
wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display
alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start
button is pressed.
To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added
together, (e.g./ “6” = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where
testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150ºF) and
water won’t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and
testing will end shortly after water has started circulating

Posted on Jul 20, 2009

  • 457 Answers

SOURCE: the dishwasher is stuck in the drain cycle Bosch SHX46A

you have a leak,or the something has the float stuck in the open position. when water gets in the base the float raises and the uni automatically drain until the water is out of base. if this helps post a 4 thumbs up post

Posted on Feb 28, 2010

Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: My built in Bosch dishwasher runs for hours, the

Hello, welcome to Fixya. What you're describing sounds like a bad control. I would still start by checking your water inlet temperature, the unit must be connected to a "hot" water supply line. If the water at your water supply is indeed hot it shouldn't be an issue, however you can try running the hot water at your sink tap to insure the cold water is out of the lines just before you turn on the dishwasher. If it is what I suspect, the control, this won't make any difference but it's worth a try. If on the other hand the water is good and hot entering the machine, you likely have an issue with the control as I alluded to. repairclinic.com carries them as part # 1102296 at a retail price of $185.65US however, I have a suggestion as to identifying the culprit if you're open to it thus confirming or dismissing the cause...but you may want to call in a pro. Since the issue with your Bosch dishwasher potentially lye`s within`the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. You'll need to access the control for a visual inspection ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ). This is possibly one of the reasons why it runs seemingly forever (unless pressing the two buttons for "cancel"). To inspect and possibly repair your unit It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board. This will be one of the pins from the heater relay, hence the unit runs & runs ( because it can`t heat to advance or until canceled ) trying to heat the water. **Further to this, if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control and I don`t pretend to speak on there behalf nor do I profess to know better. Replacing the control will certainly remedy the problem. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)** **Please disconnect the power before attempting any service to the dishwasher. If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro as I alluded to earlier but with a word of caution, Insure it is one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau to service your machine.** Hope this answer`s your question's, let me know if I can assist you further. I will look for your reply. Please do reply either way, I've found after answering many of these questions I'm left wondering if the info was of any use to those asking. I don't know if perhaps a pro does get called in those cases and the "fixya" thread gets abandoned but I hope not. Thank`s for visiting "fixya" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness to you and leave a testimony if you're satisfied. Good luck. macmarkus :)

Posted on Jun 10, 2010

  • 414 Answers

SOURCE: Water supply to my Bosch SHE43CO5UC/17 dishwasher

Could be a dirty hose filter or faulty inlet valve. Ther could be a leak and the bottom of the unit has flooded activating the flood safety which will cut the water supply. The pressure chamber and/or the hose pressure chamber to sumo could be block (take of left side panel and these are at the bottom right). Finally, the aquastop (grey box connected to the mains water supply that feeds the d/w) could be activated, faulty or fitted in the wrong position
Hope this gives you some where to start..

Posted on Jul 09, 2010

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