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Oven doors are designed to have some movement in and out to accommodate sealing against the gasket. If you're not getting a good seal check the condition of the gasket. If it's hard and inflexible you'll need to replace it.
About 5-6 years of normal use can make these hard and inflexible.
I just looked and Bosch calls this the 'Door Seal' pn 1052639
I also had difficulty in obtaining a Lofra oven door seal but after searching and searching the internet I obtained an email address and now the problem has been solved. I received my oven door seal from the Italian Lofra company direct this morning. I dealt with a lady named Donatella and I found her very helpful. She can be contacted on firstname.lastname@example.org just give her the make of your cooker and she will let you know if she has one mine cost around £14.
The "cell phone" test is a fraud. Cell phones operate on a frequency range much lower than microwaves (800 MHz for phones and 2.5 GHz for the ovens), and the metal screen in the microwave door won't affect them. The phone will ring loud and clear and it doesn't mean the oven is leaking microwaves.
You can buy a "microwave leakage test card" at some stores that supposedly change color when you hold in front of the door if the oven is leaking microwaves. This is also a fake. It actually responds to heat, on the thory that if heat is escaping around the door then microwaves are too. That's wrong.
The only sure way to test for microwave leakage is with a standardized leakage test meter. This is a fairly expensive electronic device. You really don't need to worry about microwave leakage unless the door of the oven is visibly out of alignment so that it isn't closing and sealing properly. If the door hasn't been getting slammed shut and the oven hasn't been dropped, everything should be fine. Take the oven to a service shop for a leakage test if you are concerned.
One final note: Microwave energy drops off rapidly with distance. Just don't stand right in front of the oven while it's running.
Hope this helps ease your mind. Thanks for using Fixya!
Flashing F1 clearly indicates a problem in the electronic control, its keypad (which may only be available with the control) or sometimes even the oven sensor. The first thing you can try is disconnecting the appliance from power for several minutes to see if that clears the problem. If not, some investigating will likely be necessary. However, a defective oven temperature sensor can also sometimes trigger the same F-1 error to display. It is also not inconceivable that an improperly grounded or polarized power supply to the range could also cause intermittent failures of the electronic control. Checking the power supply should usually be done as a matter of course during testing. Unfortunately, it will likely be difficult to pinpoint the exact cause unless the range can be tested *at the time of failure*. Otherwise just replacing the possible suspect components may need to be done to see if they correct the condition.
This seems like a problem with with the door latch circuitry HW. If the unit is still in warranty, call GE customer care. If not, your neighbor will need to buy a new oven. Service on microwave ovens is not cost effective because the replacements are so reasonable and have so many new features.
I have a lot of experience with these units. If the door latch circuitry is in question you may be exposed to dangerous microwave energy. Hope this helps...
Could be a malfunction in the lock mechanism, But if this is a newer oven or first time cleaning, the oven door seal may be holding the door out just far enough to keep the lock mechanism from engaging. Try pushing in a bit on the top of the door to compress the seal a bit
and then try setting it to lock while holding pressure on the top of
the door. If this works remember you may need to press in on it again
to get it to unlock after it cools.
Also check that the lock lever actually springs out to grab the door and that the hole in the door is aligned properly to receive the lock lever. I would think that you could test this with the oven door open.
It sounds to me like the switch that operates the light is malfunctioning. You're taking the right steps by pressing the switch by hand. Since that didn't work, either that switch is not working or there is another switch that is intended to keep the light on while the door is closed. You can look at that one too. The last thing to consider is if the light is relay controlled, the relay might be stuck closed and applying power to the light all the time.