Auto protect often cuts sound, when it's not particularly loud. Is there a way I can switch it off, or set the limit to higher?

* You should contact your Service Vendor for advice*
*** The following is for information only***
* No Brand or Model given, so I'll try to answer in general terms.
* High limit fuse, switch, come in one time use or resettable depending on equip requirement.
* Fixed Thermo fuses are set to blow at a specific temperature. Water heaters in coffee equipment blow if tank heats well above boiling point (say 300f or higher). Others protect at higher ranges but blows when reaching to a point where the frame may fail. You must size the fuse to your specific needs. (usually MFR part is required)
* Resettable high limits are used when fails may be more common in the normal operation of equipment. Some (like espresso machines) are used on the boiler but placed so that a technician is required to reset them.
* Auto-Reset are usually on consumer products where repair is too costly and having an auto reset minimizes service requests. Common on coffee brewers that are powered up without filling the tank with water. Boiler over heats and trips out high limit. Resets after cooling down.
* Auto-resets are commonly found on small 110VAC motors.
* Manual resets are found on larger power motors. Usually a red button near the back plate of the motor.
* Motor limits tend to be part of the motor. This will require an exact replacement part. Look at the motor plate and MFR motor # is required to properly identify the part you need.
* Boilers require the power rating to match the thermal fuse. Usually set above boiling point of water. Note; if your heating other liquids; oil, grease, lead, etc. Then you need a fuse to the specific temperature requirements.
* Water heaters tend to have standard parts that probably can be found at Home Depot, Lowes, Grainger, etc.
* If your using a DIGITAL control system. Then there is a probe or therm-resistor probe that needs an exact replacement. The limits are set at the controller. Exact (or at least same rated) probe is required. Note; probes come in many variations! + voltage, - voltage, resistance, etc. Make sure your ordering the exact part. Especially if you bought the equip from an overseas MFR as standards are different from the USA.
* Final, Call your service vendor.
Aloha, ukeboy57

This is usually due to low limit or high limit cut off switches. Basically when it's low on refrigerant the unit cuts out to protect the compressor. Then after 20 minutes the pressure equalizes and the unit kick back on, or the opposite for the high limit switch.

Yes, the PCM for your vehicle's engine has a rev/speed limit seeting programmed into it. Most stock, non high performance/police package vehicles usually won't go above a top speed of 97MPH. if you were to rev your engine while it was in park or neutral, once the engine reaches the cut out rpm limit preset in the PCM, it will cause the engine to cut back, then it will rev up until it hits the preset limit, then cut back, and it keep repeating that pattern. It may sound as though you have a high rev ignition failure that sounds like waaa, waaa, waaa, waaa, but that indicates the PCM is doing its job.

The tone control on this one sounds like it is an active one and either using the low or high pass filter you would be boosting the higher or lower frequencies. Boosting the lower frequecies will be harder on the amplifier, in which case if you would like to use then you may need to connect speakers with a lower impedance or higher sensitivity.

Sony has protection in these receivers for two main reasons.

1 - Checking for DC voltages on the outputs to speakers. Not your particular problem.

2 - Excessive current being drawn from receiver on one or more of the speakers.

Number 2 should be your starting point in finding a solution. Put the volume level on Medium - 35 to 40 on the front panel. Now listen to all you speakers in turn. Any scratching noise will indicate a defective speaker. Remove this speaker from the receiver output and check again if the set goes into protection on high volume.

If you could not find any strange noises on the speakers, remove them one by one and test the set on high volume.

Never - attempt to disengage the protection on this amplifier. The only times we have found the amplifier to be defective with this protection error, it has done so no matter the volume level. Therefore I believe your problem to be a speaker or speakers.

Good luck!

As a first check, There should be 2 gauges and a pressure switch with histeresis.
You need to set the tank pressure switch above the regulated output pressure.
The tank pressure will fluctuate between the upper limit and lower limit set in the compressor switch.
The outlet regulated pressure should be below the lower of the switch settings or you will get a varied outlet pressure.
Try setting the tank pressure lower limit higher on the switch - above the outlet pressure required.
Always stay within the tank maximum rating.

If things are nor working properly, it may be the outlet regulator (make sure it is emptied of condensate daily) or a fault with the compressor switch if the tank pressure drops too low before starting.

If the compressor is on more often than usual, then it may need service or repair to worn parts. This is particularly true for vane compressors.

This will be a protection feature of the head unit. If you are not using an amplifier, when the power required by the speakers exceeds the power output of the head unit, it will cut out until the volume level is reduced.

If the head unit turns completely off, you may consider adding an amplifier to the sound system.

This sounds very simple. If the dryer vent hose is partially blocked, the unit will overheat and shut down on thermal lockout. This is an auto reset limit switch. After the unit cools down, it will reset on it's own. This will be very intermittent. Clean the vent real good and be sure to clean the vent inside the unit as well. Then retry.

I am providing some information, but I encourage you to have a furnace technician look at your furnace. The reason is; the limit switch trips when there is a problem that may present a fire or combustion hazard. I've seen these switches go bad, but not very often. Usually they are tripping because the plenum is sooted up and excessive heat builds in the combustion chamber. This is common in older furnaces that have pilot flames- the flame runs all year and soot deposits in the plenum, plugging the air flow through the combustion chamber after years of use.

The limit switch is a safety control switch located on the furnace just below the plenum. If the plenum gets too hot, the limit switch shuts off the burner. It also shuts off the blower when the temperature drops to a certain level after the burner has shut off. If the blower runs continuously, either the blower control on the thermostat has been set to the ON position or the limit control switch needs adjustment. Check the thermostat first. If the blower control has been set to ON, change it to AUTO; if the blower control is already on AUTO, the limit switch needs adjusting.

To adjust the switch, remove the control's cover. Under it is a toothed dial with one side marked LIMIT; don't touch this side. The other side of the control is marked FAN. There are two pointers on the fan side; the blower goes on at the upper pointer setting and turns off at the lower pointer setting. The pointers should be set about 25 degrees apart. Set the upper pointer at about 115 degrees Fahrenheit and the lower one at about 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

There is a volume limiter under "settings", check to be sure its turned all the way up (you actually have to click the center button to save). Also you will find "Sound Check" being turned on greatly reduces volume.