Question about Washing Machines
Hi, I have a Zanussi washer 500rpm model FA 522. I live in Spain and our water is very hard. I use a calgon type product in every wash, but the calc build up in the filter is still really bad. I have removed the filter a few times (as the calc prevents the washer spinning properly after a few months) and it is always full of stone like calc. Now the filter handle has broken and the whole filter assembly can only be removed by prising it out with pliers. Yes...you guessed it, the filter now leakes too due to the housing becoming distorted from the use of pliers. Can I buy a new filter housing, filter part and handle? Or is the washer doomed? (The washer is only 4 years old). Thanks. Linda.
If it is leaking from the waste pump area it may be blocked by a small piece of clothing like a sock or something similar! This will also cause it to take too long to complete a cycle. Remove the rubber hose onto the waste pump and check inside the hose and the pump, make sure the pump spins freely and that nothing is stuck in the hose pipes leading to the pump
Posted on Sep 13, 2007
Sounds like u may have broken the coupler gear between the motor and transmission... the replaced the belt with these gears on this model... But should go fill & pumb water out and NOT spin Or agitate... IF these gears or broke or stripped... heavy loads like u said would do this... recheck and see if wash will pumb water out But will NOT agitate or spin.. IF so the above is your problem and is Not to hard to repair or much money
Below is a pic with the motor remove the white piece in the middle is 1/2 of the gear system with a rubber piece in the middle (not there) and another like gear on the motor
sounds like these gears may be broken or stripped on your washer
Posted on Oct 27, 2007
I suggest taking the top panel off (2 screws in back leave the plastic piece on the lid). push hard back and lift lid off. now you can look in from the top. look for soap residue to see if water is leaking down the side of the cabnet. if none is evident check hoses. what makes you so sure its in the middle/back. if you only notice it during the wash cycle you may have to go in back and take off the panel check around the bearing behind the pulley in the tub, could be leaking
Posted on Feb 10, 2008
If the washer does not spin ONLY when it gets to the spin cycle, you may have a broken lid switch. Here' how you can determine if the switch is working properly or not. Open and close the washer lid and listen for a "clicking" sound as the lid opens and closes. If no click is heard, chances are your lid switch has come loose, the lid strike (small plastic piece on the lid that depresses the lid switch contacts when the lid closes), or your lid switch is broken all together. If you make the determination that you need to replace the switch, follow these steps:
First of all, unplug your washer. you'll need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. the washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. And, still there are some of the older models that have screws holding the console in place from the back. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. you will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in on the side of the tub opening and a ground wire attached to the casing. Remove the connector plug, by pushing in on the release tabs on either side and pushing it down through the opening in the washer casing. The wire harness will be held in place by clips under the washer rim. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.
Now...the oil leaking from the gear case may be an unrelated problem. The gear case IS filled with a honey colored oil. Sometimes they leak. This does not always indicate a problem unless the problem gets progressively worse, or you notice slow spin or no spin related problems. If the amount of oil is a small amount it may not be anything to worry about. However, if you are noticing large puddles, you may need to think about replacing the gear case.
I only mentioned the lid switch first, because this is a simple problem that can often be overlooked, AND appear to be a more significant problem. BOTH components, if bad, can exhibit very similar symptoms. If you check the lid switch and it is working properly, you could very well have a gear case going bad. If you need to replace it, I would recommend replacing the motor coupling as well. Here's a list of part numbers:
Gear case - 3360629R $73.88
Motor Coupling - 285753A $15.49
The parts can be found at searpartsdirect.com under the heading "BRAKE, CLUTCH, GEARCASE, MOTOR AND PUMP". You can also find these parts at repairclinic.com. The gear case on the Sears website is a rebuilt one. The gear case at repair clinic is a new one and costs a bit more. Just type in your model number in the search menu and a part index will be available.
If you make the determination that the gear case is bad, I can give you follow-up instructions on how to replace it. It is a simple repair that you can do with a little guidance. You can also save a bunch in added labor costs.
Good Luck and let me know if you have any further questions.
PS Additional part numbers (if needed):
Lid Switch - 285671 $29.99
Lid Strike - 350733 $10.48
These parts are available also at the Sears website under the heading "TOP AND CABINET".
Posted on Mar 01, 2008
First of all, you need to confirm if the leak is from the filter or the pump.
You can replace the filter seperately to the pump.
If you replace the filter, and it still leaks, then you are going to have replace the pump.
I would suggest that that you check and clean if needed the outlet pipe where the water enters the outside waste pipe.
Make sure that you do a boil wash periodically, to ensure that the drum and other internal parts are clean.
Clean the door seal and dry after each wash, it helps to leave the door slightly open
Please leave any comments that may have as regards to my suggestions.
Posted on Nov 25, 2009
I had the same problem but bought a new washer. As we were parting this washer out we found that there is a black rubber boot the attaches to the water pump. There is a filter inside of this boot and it was clogged with hair, string, and almost 2 bucks in change. No wonder it wouldnt drain. Check yours and see if thats your problem too!
Posted on Sep 21, 2010
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