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No pressure Gas powered pump is a radial type from DeVilbiss. There is very low pressure, although there is some pulsing from the pumping action. There are no leaks and the supply pressure is good. Pump pistons are in good condition. They seem to be pumping when I had it disassembled and operated by hand. I suspect it is something in the bypass or unloader. Or it may be in the ''easy start'' assembly which I assume reduces backpressure on the pump when starting the engine. Pump has a temperature relief valve but it is working fine. Do you have any suggestions what to check and how to check?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Pressure Washer Pump and Engine Stops Suddenly

The pump might be binding against the motor, causing the pump to overheat and temporarilly "seize up" and shut the engine off.
After cooling down for a brief period (5~10 mins) the engine can usually be re-started, but the overheating problem will keep coming back.

This happens when the pump either wasn't seated against the engine properly during it's initial instalation, or the pump housing wasn't machined properly and the PTO shaft is trying to drive the pump at a slight angle = excessive friction = overheating.

Try this:
1) Loosen the bolts that mount the pump to the engine just enough so that the pump can be wiggled slightly.
2) With the engine power switch in the "OFF" position, slowly pull the recoil starter rope so that the engine / pump completes about two revolutions. This helps to align the pump surface with the engine.
3) Lightly snug the pump mounting bolts in a criss-cross pattern, then slowly pull the recoil starter rope again to ensure that the pump isn't binding.
4) Finish tightening the pump mounting bolts in the criss-cross pattern (approx. 21 foot pounds torque).

The entire process should take you roughly about 10 mins from start to finish.

If this doesn't remedy your problem, then try running the engine for 20 mins with the pump COMPLETELY removed so as to isolate the components.

Posted on Sep 01, 2009

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SOURCE: Low Pressure

I worked at a tool rental while attending college and had the opportunity to work on a variety of pressure washers, however, they were of the commercial type. Commercial washers are slightly different in that they usually have seperated components for easier service. Attached to the pump by fittings or rubber hose were the pressure regulator (which has the bypass unloader inside), chemical injector, pressure gauge as well as the hot water release safety all external to pump. Your pump has all these components in one case. By far the most troublesome component is the pressure regulator/unloader which when failing will result in low pressure because it will bypass water back into the intake as you suspect is happening to yours. Here are a few things to check. I believe that your pump is 2500 2.4 gpm. Test gpm water capacity by running pump normally with hose and proper tip attached. Spray water into bucket for one minute and verify that you are pumping 2.4 gallons of water (or what ever gpm your machine is rated). Measure the amount of water that your machine delivered. If it delivered proper gpm and pressure is low then problem could be worn or improper tip. The pressure is created at the tip and pressure will drop as the tip wears. As the unloader/bypass wears, water will bypass at a lower pressure. (Try lowering the pressure regulator all the way ) If water measures less than rated delivery than the machine is bypassing water due to worn regulator/bypass, checkvalves pitted, oring in front of checkvalve worn or cut or missing, or body of pump where checkvalve/oring seat is pitted allowing water to leak past valve. The cap that is removed to access checkvalve must presses against checkvalve with enough force to prevent water from leaking thru oring and body of pump. Examine checkvalves and orings with maginfy lens and look for pitting. Valves surface and orings must be very smooth and tight fitting to work properly. Body of pump where checkvalve oring snuggs against must be very smooth. Any surface where oring seats must be smooth. As water bypasses it cuts metal and orings just like a leaking faucet so look for cuts in metal and rubber. This info and my experience is better suited for larger pumps and higher pressure but maybe it will help. Good luck with your repair.

Posted on Jul 11, 2010

wmpcs
  • 100 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 4,000 psi, 4.5 gpm 45G cat pump powered

I would just purchase a new unloader valve, they usually aren't worth rebuilding. I would like to have a picture of the set up that you have, if you can send me a picture of the unloader region of the pump I can get you are price on a new one. email is justin@wmpcs.com

Posted on Oct 25, 2010

  • 969 Answers

SOURCE: Low pressure; as if the

VANES MAYBE CLOGGED, TRY SPRAYING IT WITH PB BLASTER IN THE WATER INLET TUBE & LET SOAK 15-20MINUTES.

Posted on Nov 08, 2010

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