Question about Garden
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get to try the service completely Free afterwhich it costs $6 per call and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The pump might be binding against the motor, causing the pump to overheat and temporarilly "seize up" and shut the engine off.
After cooling down for a brief period (5~10 mins) the engine can usually be re-started, but the overheating problem will keep coming back.
This happens when the pump either wasn't seated against the engine properly during it's initial instalation, or the pump housing wasn't machined properly and the PTO shaft is trying to drive the pump at a slight angle = excessive friction = overheating.
1) Loosen the bolts that mount the pump to the engine just enough so that the pump can be wiggled slightly.
2) With the engine power switch in the "OFF" position, slowly pull the recoil starter rope so that the engine / pump completes about two revolutions. This helps to align the pump surface with the engine.
3) Lightly snug the pump mounting bolts in a criss-cross pattern, then slowly pull the recoil starter rope again to ensure that the pump isn't binding.
4) Finish tightening the pump mounting bolts in the criss-cross pattern (approx. 21 foot pounds torque).
The entire process should take you roughly about 10 mins from start to finish.
If this doesn't remedy your problem, then try running the engine for 20 mins with the pump COMPLETELY removed so as to isolate the components.
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
SOURCE: Low Pressure
I worked at a tool rental while attending college and had the opportunity to work on a variety of pressure washers, however, they were of the commercial type. Commercial washers are slightly different in that they usually have seperated components for easier service. Attached to the pump by fittings or rubber hose were the pressure regulator (which has the bypass unloader inside), chemical injector, pressure gauge as well as the hot water release safety all external to pump. Your pump has all these components in one case. By far the most troublesome component is the pressure regulator/unloader which when failing will result in low pressure because it will bypass water back into the intake as you suspect is happening to yours. Here are a few things to check. I believe that your pump is 2500 2.4 gpm. Test gpm water capacity by running pump normally with hose and proper tip attached. Spray water into bucket for one minute and verify that you are pumping 2.4 gallons of water (or what ever gpm your machine is rated). Measure the amount of water that your machine delivered. If it delivered proper gpm and pressure is low then problem could be worn or improper tip. The pressure is created at the tip and pressure will drop as the tip wears. As the unloader/bypass wears, water will bypass at a lower pressure. (Try lowering the pressure regulator all the way ) If water measures less than rated delivery than the machine is bypassing water due to worn regulator/bypass, checkvalves pitted, oring in front of checkvalve worn or cut or missing, or body of pump where checkvalve/oring seat is pitted allowing water to leak past valve. The cap that is removed to access checkvalve must presses against checkvalve with enough force to prevent water from leaking thru oring and body of pump. Examine checkvalves and orings with maginfy lens and look for pitting. Valves surface and orings must be very smooth and tight fitting to work properly. Body of pump where checkvalve oring snuggs against must be very smooth. Any surface where oring seats must be smooth. As water bypasses it cuts metal and orings just like a leaking faucet so look for cuts in metal and rubber. This info and my experience is better suited for larger pumps and higher pressure but maybe it will help. Good luck with your repair.
Posted on Jul 11, 2010
I would just purchase a new unloader valve, they usually aren't worth rebuilding. I would like to have a picture of the set up that you have, if you can send me a picture of the unloader region of the pump I can get you are price on a new one. email is firstname.lastname@example.org
Posted on Oct 25, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 22, 2015 | Cars & Trucks
Oct 18, 2013 | DeVilbiss Pk17374 Pump For Excell...
May 21, 2012 | Devilbliss DeVILBISS Devap DVH2600...
Jul 04, 2011 | 2007 Toyota Camry
Jun 06, 2011 | Devilbliss DeVILBISS Devap DVH2600...
May 07, 2011 | Devilbliss DeVILBISS Devap DVH2600...
Oct 15, 2010 | DeVilbiss Garden
Oct 07, 2010 | Briggs and Stratton 073001 2" Portable Gas...
Sep 10, 2009 | Garden
88 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: