Question about Electronics - Others

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Make sure it's not the 'load' you're trying to run. It may be that the device is the problem. Do you have something different to try to fun?

Posted on Oct 03, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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The owner's manual should delineate which circuits each fuse pertains to. Are they fuses that are blowing or circuit breakers that trip and can be reset?

Apr 18, 2014 | Vehicle Parts & Accessories

Hmmmmm, well that`s unfortunate , i can tell you that most electronic devices that connect to low voltage DC supply's are protected bye a protection diode and the fuse link you think it might be is a circuit trace internal.

an 800 watt innverter draws about 80 to 100 amp to produce the 800 watt output and you must have 2 40 amp fuses or 3 30 amp fuses customer replaceable, if you did not damage the components in your device all you kneed to do is to repair the circuit trace and replace the reverse polarity protection diode to restore normal operation

there are no fuse links internal to inverter power supply's

best regards Falco

an 800 watt innverter draws about 80 to 100 amp to produce the 800 watt output and you must have 2 40 amp fuses or 3 30 amp fuses customer replaceable, if you did not damage the components in your device all you kneed to do is to repair the circuit trace and replace the reverse polarity protection diode to restore normal operation

there are no fuse links internal to inverter power supply's

best regards Falco

Oct 27, 2013 | Electronics - Others

Rich,
This may sound obvious, but either the main breaker is acting normally because the load is near 100 amps, or it's defective. If it seems that the loading conditions have not changed from prior years, then you have probably been close to the 100 amp level before and a small amount of corrosion has occurred over time (accelerated by the heavy loading). The cleanliness and tightness of connections is critical to carrying loads at rated capacity. If you are close to the rated load, then replacing the main will buy you some time (but probably not as much as the original because the bus bar connection to the main is probably slightly corroded too) but it won't solve the problem - you will need to upgrade to a higher amp service.
On the other hand, if you can calculate or measure the total load and you aren't near 100 Amps, then you just need to replace the main.
One other thought. If you have a significant part of the load that is not 220V, then it you might have a higher load on one phase than the other, and could possibly be remedied by switching phases on some of the branch circuits. You only have to exceed 50 amps on one phase to trip a 100 amp main.
Good luck,
Al K

Apr 12, 2011 | Your One Source 100 Amp Main Breaker

Hi Gena, the inverter is a 400 watt unit. This is not a rating for a continuous load. You do not mention which fuse is blowing. This could be the fuse in the inverter or the cigarette lighter (power source) fuse. In either case, a fuse blowing could be a short circuit, something in the inverter shorted, or too much load. I am going to look at the too much load side of things. Not knowing how many laptops are being used, with the inverter if you have a 20 amp fuse in the cig lighter, this will allow you 20 amps X 12 volts = 240 watts. I would not run the inverter over 240 watts because of overheating issues. So, 240 watts will run 3 laptops. Just the laptops. Most laptops draw around 70 watts. check your power supplies on them to find their rating. If you exceed the 240 watts by combining the ratings, then you can expect trouble with your inverter. It will give 400 watts, but this is a temporary condition only. Another inverter will be needed or a larger one installed and it being connected directly to the battery (with a fuse of sufficient size installed). You could also (let us say there are 6 computers) charge and run 3, and the other 3 are running on their batteries. After an hour, switch so that the 3 running on batteries now are charging as well as running. The other 3 are now charging.

I hope this helps. If you have any other questions please provide additional information. Such as the size and location of the fuse blowing. The laptop power supply ratings.

thank you

I hope this helps. If you have any other questions please provide additional information. Such as the size and location of the fuse blowing. The laptop power supply ratings.

thank you

Oct 15, 2010 | Vector VEC024B MAXX SST Power Inverter

Hello there:

The power inverter can handle only certain loads and if too much is applied than the inverter will pop and this is what it sounds like happned so wht you cna do is to either buy a new inverter part from the manufacture or send the unit back if you still have the warranty.

Normally they stand behind their product and will repair it for free ok

Hope this is very helpful for you

Best regards Michael

The power inverter can handle only certain loads and if too much is applied than the inverter will pop and this is what it sounds like happned so wht you cna do is to either buy a new inverter part from the manufacture or send the unit back if you still have the warranty.

Normally they stand behind their product and will repair it for free ok

Hope this is very helpful for you

Best regards Michael

Apr 24, 2010 | Vector VEC024B MAXX SST Power Inverter

First of all it is possible that the is no power going into the inverter,trace the input source to see if the connection from the generator is ok. check the fuse if it is broken if not, the contactor or switching relay in the inverter is bad

Apr 06, 2010 | Xantrex Technology Heart Freedom 20 12...

Either the receptical is wired wrong, or the line safety limit has been exceeded(example If you have a 20 amp breaker and the draw on that breaker exceeds 20 amps the breaker will trip.) You either have to put the refrigerator on a dedicated circuit or trace the circuit that it is on to see if the total load on that circuit is greater than the circuit limit. The simplest being , put the refrigerator on its own circuit.

Jul 18, 2009 | Dometic Refrigerators

IF your washing machine is a conventional model with a common AC induction motor, waveform isn't the problem. Normal starting current for typical AC induction motors is usually 5 to 7 times the rated running current. Even though that current draw only lasts a fraction of a second, it's marginal for a 2.4 kw inverter's surge capacity. The trick of switching on other small loads (preferably resistive loads like incandescent bulbs) before starting the washer may help. Another area to check is your battery cables and connections The inverter pulls a huge amount of current to produce it's max surge output and even a little resistance in the battery circuit may cause the inverter to trip off. If you've got one of the fancy new electronic controlled washers with a D.C. motor, (so called energy saving or high efficiency models) then the waveform may be an issue and a pure sine wave might be needed.

Apr 01, 2009 | Xantrex Technology Trace Series Inverter /...

If you want to get more precise, figure out everything in terms of power (watts).

Basic electrical rule 1, 2 and 3:

voltage x current = power

or re-arranged:

current = power divided by voltage

or re-arranged:

voltage = power divided by current

For example, 12V X 2 amps = 24 watts.

or another example, 400 watts divided by 120 Volts = 3.33 amps

A 55W headlight that uses 12V would draw 55 /12 = 4.6 amps @ 12V

A 55 watt light bulb in a lamp at home would draw 55 / 120 = 0.46 amps @ 120V

As the previous post mentioned, inverters are not perfect when convertering 12V into 120V. If the converter consumes 1000W from the 12V battery, then a 90% effecient converter would generate 900W of 120V AC power best case. The other 100W is lost primarily as heat.

The other thing that gets tricky is that these ratings and the formula above are used for resistive loads, like light bulbs or hair dryers. Anything with a motor or transformer is considered an inductive load and can get much more tricky to calculate.

Consequently you need to give your self a safety margin when figuring out how big an inverter you need.

How does work in a practical sense?

Lets say you want an inverter for TV, DVD and Sat. Receiver. Look at the back of TV or in the manual. It should say how many watts it consumes. Lets say it is 400W. The DVD might be 100W and the Sat. receiver 50W - just as an example.

400 + 100 + 50 = 550 Watts. (just as an example)

You might think, well no problem, I'll use a 600 Watt inverter and have 50 watts left over. Depending on your inverter, that 600W might really be 600 x 90% effecient = 540 Watts of AC, less a 20% margin of error for the inductive transformers in the electronic of the TV, DVD and Sat. receiver 540 - 20% = 432 Watts.

Now you can see your 600 Watt inverter isn't big enough to do the job.

If we really need 550 watts of AC, add 10% to make up the effiency loss, then add a safety margin for inductive loads.

550 + 10% = 605 + 20% = 726 Watts.

Sounds more like an 800W inverter fits the job.

What does that mean in terms of wiring the 12V batteries to the inverter?

from the formula above:

current = power divided by voltage

In our example, we have an 800W inverter that runs on 12V

The current would thererfore be:

current = power divided by voltage

current = 800 watts divided by 12V

current = 66 amps.

That is important info because you can not use light gauge wire to carry 66 amps worth of 12V to the inverter nor could you use a 20A fuse to protect your inverter.

Now that's a lot of science for a guy who just wants to run a toaster on an inverter right?

800W / 120V = 6.66 amps

Using garryp's ratio 11:1, 6.66 x 11 = 73 amps.

That is a good ratio with a good safety margin.

This is all just MHO and should not taken as solid technical advise. In other words, don't blame me if you blow yourself up.

Basic electrical rule 1, 2 and 3:

voltage x current = power

or re-arranged:

current = power divided by voltage

or re-arranged:

voltage = power divided by current

For example, 12V X 2 amps = 24 watts.

or another example, 400 watts divided by 120 Volts = 3.33 amps

A 55W headlight that uses 12V would draw 55 /12 = 4.6 amps @ 12V

A 55 watt light bulb in a lamp at home would draw 55 / 120 = 0.46 amps @ 120V

As the previous post mentioned, inverters are not perfect when convertering 12V into 120V. If the converter consumes 1000W from the 12V battery, then a 90% effecient converter would generate 900W of 120V AC power best case. The other 100W is lost primarily as heat.

The other thing that gets tricky is that these ratings and the formula above are used for resistive loads, like light bulbs or hair dryers. Anything with a motor or transformer is considered an inductive load and can get much more tricky to calculate.

Consequently you need to give your self a safety margin when figuring out how big an inverter you need.

How does work in a practical sense?

Lets say you want an inverter for TV, DVD and Sat. Receiver. Look at the back of TV or in the manual. It should say how many watts it consumes. Lets say it is 400W. The DVD might be 100W and the Sat. receiver 50W - just as an example.

400 + 100 + 50 = 550 Watts. (just as an example)

You might think, well no problem, I'll use a 600 Watt inverter and have 50 watts left over. Depending on your inverter, that 600W might really be 600 x 90% effecient = 540 Watts of AC, less a 20% margin of error for the inductive transformers in the electronic of the TV, DVD and Sat. receiver 540 - 20% = 432 Watts.

Now you can see your 600 Watt inverter isn't big enough to do the job.

If we really need 550 watts of AC, add 10% to make up the effiency loss, then add a safety margin for inductive loads.

550 + 10% = 605 + 20% = 726 Watts.

Sounds more like an 800W inverter fits the job.

What does that mean in terms of wiring the 12V batteries to the inverter?

from the formula above:

current = power divided by voltage

In our example, we have an 800W inverter that runs on 12V

The current would thererfore be:

current = power divided by voltage

current = 800 watts divided by 12V

current = 66 amps.

That is important info because you can not use light gauge wire to carry 66 amps worth of 12V to the inverter nor could you use a 20A fuse to protect your inverter.

Now that's a lot of science for a guy who just wants to run a toaster on an inverter right?

800W / 120V = 6.66 amps

Using garryp's ratio 11:1, 6.66 x 11 = 73 amps.

That is a good ratio with a good safety margin.

This is all just MHO and should not taken as solid technical advise. In other words, don't blame me if you blow yourself up.

Nov 26, 2008 | Coleman 5640B807 Compact Refrigerator

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Thanks but it happens on both heat pump and portable space heater we have used many times before.

Thanks for your help. Heat pump is working now (whew,it is 45 outside today!). When we picked up bus from storage yesterday the house batteries were dead for some reason. The only thing we can figure is the batteries didn't fully charge when on the road and are now fully charged as we were plugged in to direct ac. House batteries must have been charged fully thru the night so now things seem to be working fine. Now we need to figure out why house batteries were dead. Thank you all.

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