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Re: dayton mod#3e219b gas heater
Air compressor output should be 3.5 psi. to the fuel nozzle. the cowlings purpose is to channel the air-fan output through the rear vanes of the combustion chamber. if these openings are restricted then air can't get into the chamber. check to see that the fan blades aren't jammed against the cowling. if they won't spin then you won't get any air through the unit.
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If you can only get 4 psi from the pump then you have a problem with the rotor. This could be from the vanes not coming out properly of if you have replaced or serviced the rotor you may not have the clearance set properly between the pump ring and the top of the rotor.
Make sure to inspect the pump cover for any small cracks..
If you pump pressure in not enough the unit will not be able to pull fuel from the tank and you will see the burner cone slowly start to go from the orange color to a dark color and the unit will shut down.
Have you tried the flue vent? If not, an easy way to check this would be to take the vent pipe off of the unit and see if it continues to have the problem. In most cases, this happens when you have blocked return air or dirty filters, flue blocked, or induction is blocked from switch or housing. One other possibility would be a dirty/clogged a coil which isn't allowing sufficient air to push out causing the limit to trip. I hope this helps somewhat.
I have never seen a dayton gas heater but I will try. If this is an LP Gas
System are you using a 30lb. Cylinder, 100 lb cylinder or a whole house
Next are you sure you got the right gas unit for the right gas system?
If using LP gas did you put an external pressure regulator before the unit?
Next is the a hot surface glow coil or a spark system ignition system?
If you have to hold the controller down and press a button similar to a outdoor gas grille is it sparking?
If it is sparking,did you bleed all of the air out? This could take several
tries on a new unit. Does this have a wall mounted thermostat that
controls the heater? Finally check to make sure that the gas valve
is switched on if it has that option.
Sounds like a bad fan switch. The switch is located on the heat exchanger and is 110 volt bi-metal switch. Follow the wires from the blower going back to the heatexchanger. Graingers can get you a new switch if you give them your model number. www.grainger.com.
has the transformer fallen off the motor assy.there are two screws that hold the transformer on.some times they vibrate out and the transformer losses it's ground.if they are in and tight you need a new one.cost about $80.00 for new one
the air pressure is not correct on either units.the photo cell DOES NOT look for light any more,it count the light flashes.if the flame is not in the right possition the heater will shut down....after the unit ignites the ignitor is no longer used to keep the unit working,just the fuel that is being fed to the flame ball.that's why the pressure is so inportant.......