Robotek, just wanted to let you know that these fridges are not the compressor type. They use a TEC1-12706 thermo-electric chip that pushes heat from the inside of the fridge to what is apparently a huge heat core on the back. Looks like a regular fridge... but I don't think there is any coolant in these puppies.
Anyways... everything seems to be running on my fridge (fans, lights, etc)... but it doesn't cool. I have read of blown caps and diodes on the power supply... but this doesn't seem to be the case for me as all of my measurements show proper power is being supplied. I suspect that the TEC is gone... so I am going to order one on Ebay and give it a shot.
I just learned all of this just now so forgive me if there are any mistakes here... I am not a specialist in this field. Just wanted to share what I have learned.
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Re: Honeywell 88031 fridge not working
Just in conversation, what you are referring to is the Peltier heating/cooling components. They are wired in parallel and require a power supply to activate them. These elements have 2 junctions, a hot side and a cold side. Depending on what temperature you you require, the polarities are reversed.Very possible,some of the junctions are faulty assuming you have checked the power supply. Best to replace all the peltier modules.
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The thermo disc is a protection device that was installed as a result of a previous recall. The thermo disc, when tripped, will disconnect the 12vdc power source and in turn shutting down the entire refrigerator. Even though you may be wanting to run the refrigerator on 110vac you still need the 12vdc which powers all of the circuit boards. The reason for the disc tripping is it is either weak or it is actually doing its job and preventing a fire. You will need to determine if the electric elements are operating within their parameters. You will need a multi-meter and will have to google the ohms rating for your specific refrigerators heating elements. You may also have a ventilation issue which is not allowing the fresh air to flow behind the refrigerator. The installation of exhaust fans will help.
Try the control relay/ condenser thats attached to the compressor and provides a momentary spike to start the compressor start windings prior to the unit going into run mode. reasonable and easy to fix
Hi, Unplug the machine to do any work on it!! First thing to troubleshoot is to make all the wires are connected. If you know about electrical. There is a fused thermo protector. And also an overload protector on the motor(sometimen they reset themselves). If the timer is turning you may be able to eliminate that.This is the wiring diagram. There are many things that could keep your machine from heating. The push to start button is a very common problem.
You don't need a diagram. The present control just makes and breaks the line voltage to the compressor. Just put your other thermostat in place of the original and you are set. Just two wires: line in and line out.
The part you are looking for is the thermo couple. It senses the heat from the flame and holds the gas valve open. The clicking will try three times and then go into lock out. You then will need to reset on the front of the fridge. When installing the thermo couple do not over tighten.
You have to take the kettle apart and see the spec for the thermo fuse. You can get these at most any electronics parts supplier for appliances.
To change the thermo fuse you will need the proper crimp type connectors and the crimp tool. This is not able to be soldered. It runs too hot, and soldering in a circuit close to a heating element is not able to be used.
Before changing the thermo fuse, you can test it with an ohm meter. It should typicaly read about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms. The heating element resistance should typicaly read about 8 to 12 ohms.
If the heating element reads below 6 to 7 ohms on a well calibrated ohm meter, or above 15 ohms, it is defective.
If the thermo fuse is blown, the kettle may have been left running when boiled out and over heated, or there is a short in the heating element.
If you feel that you are not comfortable to do this type of repair, it would be best to give the kettle out to an appliance service centre to have it serviced.
When you change the thermo fuse, and if it blows again the heating element is probably damaged. It must be replaced if possible, or if worth the cost.
On the other hand, if the kettle is more than a few years old and you don't want to go to all this trouble, you may want to consider to simply get a new one.
Check freezer... for Frost build up and if Fan is blowing,
Check condenser... To make sure clean, and the fan is blowing (by compressor),
Check recirclating Vents in refrigerator... to make sure theres no blockage,
CONTROLS ...should be in the middle setting,
YOU CAN TRY turning FREEZER CONTROL
To A WARMER FREEZER SETTING Allowing.. MORE AIR.. to refrigertor side